Canon 10-22mm: Recommend me a filter for landscapes and seascapes

dubcat

dubcat

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hi - I would like to start using my newly acquired 10-22mm lens for seascapes and landscapes. Can you recommend me a filter please? I think I need graduated ND but there seem to be many types. If you could mention the exact model(s) that you recommend I would appreciate it.
Many thanks,
Dub
 
I guess it depends on what budget you have but without breaking the bank a set of 3 Hitech ND grads are a good place to start. They fit the Cokin P holder just fine.

ND graduated filters come in either 'soft' or 'hard'. Soft grads are more suited to lumpy horizons as the blend between the dark and light is more 'gradual'.
Hard grads have a much more definate change from light to dark so would be more suited to seascapes where the horizon is very flat.

At the wide end of 10-22 you will need to use a slim holder though.
 
Hi Dinners - is the cokin p holder a 'slim' one?
My experience with filters in the past has always been screw in ones. I like the sound of these holders though - sounds like a lot less hassle and easier to try different filters.
Dub
 
Cokin P refers to the P range. They also do A, Z and X.

P allows you to use lenses up to 82mm wide.

The standard P holder has a few slots but the wide angle P holder has just one slot and doesn't protrude as far forward - making it suitable for wide angle.

Unlike round screw in filters you can move the filter up and down enabling you to place the filter wherever you've placed the horizon in your frame.

Hi tech grads in Cokin holders work for me. You can obviously spend a lot more money on something like Lee filters if you wanted to.
 
Dinners - ahhh i get it now :) Thank you very much for that. I was actually wondering about the impact of filters on composition but if you can move the filter then that solves that problem.

If I am not using the 10-22 wide open can i use the filter which has multiple slots in it?

I have a sinking feeling i will end up buying the multiple slot holder as well as the single slot one. At least i can use the same filter on both though :)
 
I have the Hitech ND grads, partnered with a Kood Holder and adaptor ring for my 17-50. I have also just got a Hoya Pro1 CPL which I have not yet had a chance to use yet :)
 
dubcat said:
Dinners - ahhh i get it now :) Thank you very much for that. I was actually wondering about the impact of filters on composition but if you can move the filter then that solves that problem.

If I am not using the 10-22 wide open can i use the filter which has multiple slots in it?

I have a sinking feeling i will end up buying the multiple slot holder as well as the single slot one. At least i can use the same filter on both though :)
Click to expand...

From memory the slim holder is needed up to about 15mm. I just ended up getting a slim one aswell and using it just for the Sigma 10-22.
 
I have the slim cokin holder and you can just about see it in the corners at 10mm on the 10-22 lens.I think by 12 it's fine though. I have the triple one too but don't use it. Remember you'll also need an 77mm adaptor ring to fit the holder.

Another vote here for the Hitech grads. I tried the Cokin brand ones but they were a bit too magenta for my liking.
I have also just got a Hoya Pro1 CPL which I have not yet had a chance to use yet
Click to expand...
Be careful using a CPL on a UWA lens as it's quite easy to get a noticeable vertical gradient in the sky at really wide angles.
 
Troglodyte said:
I have the slim cokin holder and you can just about see it in the corners at 10mm on the 10-22 lens.I think by 12 it's fine though.
Click to expand...

Steve - A lot of people say this but I dont see mine at 10mm :thinking:

I have Kood 77mm ring / Cokin slim holder.
 
Ah i didn't know about the adaptor ring. Thanks for the heads up :)
 
It's more of a stronger vignette in the corners than actually going 'oh, I can see the filter holder'. If I have another filter in between (like a protector or a CPL) then it's a lot more obvious.

If you twist the holder around you can see the vignette changes so it's related to the holder.
 
Is there any real advantage in going for the z-pro or x-pro if i am going to stick with a crop sensor?

When I am not using a grad or polarizing filter for example is it still sensible to use a screw in uv or protective filter on the lens or can the cokin be used for that too?

Final question - Can you use a lens hood when you are using these holders? I assume you can not get a lens cap on of course :)
 
dubcat said:
Is there any real advantage in going for the z-pro or x-pro if i am going to stick with a crop sensor?
Click to expand...
The quality is supposedly higher and it's apparently less likely to vignette but I'v not used one so can't comment.
When I am not using a grad or polarizing filter for example is it still sensible to use a screw in uv or protective filter on the lens or can the cokin be used for that too?
Click to expand...
You can get a variety of covers that fit either the adapter ring or into the filter holder when you've not using a filter.
Final question - Can you use a lens hood when you are using these holders? I assume you can not get a lens cap on of course :)
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I can't use a hood on any of the lenses I have with a filter system on them. You can use the covers I mentioned instead of a lens cap.
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Thanks for that -

there seem to be three different types of Hitech nd grad filter. They are labelled HT100 ND Grad Filter, HT85 ND Grad filter, and there is one that is just listed has ND Grad Filter... Which do you folks use and why?
 
is there any reason you guys use the cokin holder rather than the hitech one?
 
It's cheaper.

The Cokin one is plastic and the HiTech is metal.

I don't know if the parts (rings and holders) are interchangeable but you can use the same filters in both
 
Went to the shop and got told filters are a bit old fashioned as you can do it all on photoshop now...
 
You probably can if you take multiple exposures but to my mind there's always something nice about getting it right in camera to start with. Maybe I'm old fashioned... :D

Besides, if it was better to do it in photoshop you'd think the pros would be doing it that way wouldn't you? Most of them seem to be using filters however.
 
It always looks better, more natural and genuine when done in camera. Natural effects of light control will always be more pleasing to the eye than doing things in post-processing simply due to the fact that there is no algorithm that can judge how aesthetically pleasing the photo is.

It's the same reason why pro landscape togs use filters and why portrait togs use reflectors...they could take multiple exposures and labour over them in post but...why bother when it only takes a couple of seconds to get it right in camera :)
 
dubcat said:
Thanks for that -

there seem to be three different types of Hitech nd grad filter. They are labelled HT100 ND Grad Filter, HT85 ND Grad filter, and there is one that is just listed has ND Grad Filter... Which do you folks use and why?
Click to expand...

If you are going to buy Hitech (which I use), the HT 100 are for extra wide filter holders, for example if you are concerned about the use at 10mm. I think Phil already replied stating there was no problem with use on his lens. HT85 are for normal sized filter holders (Cokin P).

dubcat said:
is there any reason you guys use the cokin holder rather than the hitech one?
Click to expand...

Cokin holders are much cheaper than the Hitech holders. The fitting of the filters into the holder is a bit tight, but they do go in and out with a bit of mild effort. Kood adaptor rings are again cheaper than cokin adaptor rings and again do the same job.

dubcat said:
Went to the shop and got told filters are a bit old fashioned as you can do it all on photoshop now...
Click to expand...

They probably said that because the shop does not sell HiTech filters. Teamwork Digital is the place to purchase, if the HT85 are wide enough for your lens, have a look at main_page=product_info&products_id=10294&zenid=7a657cab3684af2b689cc322ea608770 and http://www.teamworkphoto.com/index....=10298&zenid=7a657cab3684af2b689cc322ea608770

If you decide on the above then you can buy Cokin P holder and Kood Adaptor ring, from http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photographic/square-filters/p-type/-c-60_361_363.html.

If you decide on the larger HT100 filters, then you might have to purchase the appropiate Hitech 100 filter holder.
If you give them a call you will find the staff very helpful.
 
Wow - awesome info! Thanks so much. Personally i want to do it with filters because i find post processing a headache and don't fancy increasing the amount of processing i have to do!

I will get in touch with permier-ink and teamworkphoto - thanks again for taking the time to post those links. Helps massively.

Cheers,
Dub
 
Hey

You can't do blurry water properly without a decent ND


This was interesting

Cokin info

Cokin Z-Pro Kits

2 kits available. Both kits include a Cokin Z-Pro filter holder and three graduated filters.

ND-GRAD KIT includes filter holder / Grad Grey ND2 (121L), Grad Grey ND4 (121M) and Grad Grey ND8 (121S). Code: U960

GRAD ND/BLUE/TOBACCO KIT includes filter holder / Grad Grey ND2 (121L), Grad Blue B2 Light (123L), Grad Tobacco T2 Light (125L) Code: U961

Not cheap ...
 
I use a polariser on my Canon 10-22, it gives great results. One of the best range of filters are Hoya's digital pro range - Amazon have them massively discounted (I've just bought a 67mm from them).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hoya-77mm-D...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1266755687&sr=8-1

77mm is just over £60 which is what you'd pay for a Jessops own brand! I think they are normally about £170 for the 77mm.

Some say don't use a polarizer on a UWA but I disagree, my shots look fantastic with it and they are ideal for seascapes as you cut out the reflections and can see the colours coming through from the sea bed on shallower waters. Also, the Hoya digital pro has a very slim ring so you shouldn't notice vignetting at 10mm.
 
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