Can this be fixed

I think you are going to need an application that works at pixel level, unfortunately Lightroom doesn't

Now I don't think you are gong to have to spend a lot of money. I'd opt for Photoshop elements to try and remove the shadow and creases. Bit of time needed but not impossible.

OK if you have no money ( Or SHMBO says no ) then you could try the GIMP. Now I haven't used it for ages, so I can't help much, but it is free.
 
Not easily in LR, you need proper selection tools to replace the background really here.
(this took about 20 seconds in photoshop)
7240483878_24d43398ba_b.jpg
 
Next time, get the boy away from the background, and get another light to light the background separately. Much easier than having to sort it out in post process.

Cheap continuous lights are a bit useless, really. If the light isn't bright enough, open up the aperture, crank up ISO, or get the light closer to the boy. Or combination of all 3. Getting the light close to the model is the first thing you should do, as it makes the light softer.

But ultimately, I'd flog the light, and get a cheap flash. Continuous light for photography is just not suited unless you spend big money for a decent setup - but for the same money, you can buy an arsenal of good flash system.
 
just a couple of minutes in cs5 using the clone stamp and a mess about with the colours gets you this, not sure if clone stamps available in the software you are talking about.

Could be much better with more time and more accurate stamping done.

editforum.jpg
 
The lights look plenty powerful enough to me. Your issue is not the lights but the subject to backdrop distance. At a few inches away from the backdrop you will always get strong defined shadows especially with a relatively small light source - and I'd never shoot on-camera flash for this kind of image....

You need to move your lights closer to the subject and the subject away from the backdrop to soften the shadows - and then also using lighting ratios ensure that the background is lit separately from the subject as was mentioned above.... dump the on-camera flash and use a single continuous to light the subject and another on the background.

More expensive strobes will give you the exact same result if you use them in the same way as you have these continuous lights. You need to learn the technique first to improve - and not to spend more money and fix in post-production.

As for the creases on the base of the image - vinyl, paper, or just tape the sheet down taught.
 
Thanks for the reply Mike. I hear what you saying and in no way am I in any position to disagree with you, but this was how it was set up. I had two shoot through brollies approx 1 ft in front of the backdrop facing directly onto it behind and to the side my subject, then the subject approx 3 ft away from the backdrop. The lights are that poor that when you turn them on and off it makes no difference to the backdrop. The backdrop looks quite bright due to pp. How far from the subject would you have the backdrop?
 
Thanks for the reply Mike. I hear what you saying and in no way am I in any position to disagree with you, but this was how it was set up. I had two shoot through brollies approx 1 ft in front of the backdrop facing directly onto it behind and to the side my subject, then the subject approx 3 ft away from the backdrop. The lights are that poor that when you turn them on and off it makes no difference to the backdrop. The backdrop looks quite bright due to pp.

Was your on camera flash on manual or auto ?

How far from the subject would you have the backdrop?

As far away as possible. 3ft should be OK, with the right lighting, 6ft better, 12ft much better.
 
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