Calling the experts about ETTL and manual flash problems

harrypm82

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Harry
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So I have this problem with the sharpness of my images and the light. Same area, same light, etc. I'm using the ST-e2 with a 430ex2 and the orbis flash ring. It's like the ettl does not work properly all the time. The image lacks sharpness and light. I've already turned the flasgun up to +1 and it used to come out bright enough, but now i have to turn it to +2 to get a similar effect. Take note that the settings have not changed apart from the flashgun settings,put a new battery in the ST-E2, but the flash ones are rechargables that are a year old.

Now here we have two images(Same settings/area/light/etc), unedited and directly from the camera. First one with ETTL +2

IMG_5156.jpg


Second with manual Flash

IMG_7995.jpg


What is going on here? It puzzles me!!!!

Any help appreciated.
 
Hard to say. First one just looks out of focus, but you need to do some controlled tests on the exposure issue. Just some comments really.

Not sure why you're using the Orbis off camera - it's supposed to be used as an on-axis ring light. They are very wasteful of light, and it could be that the gun is just running out of power, but in that case dialling up the compensation wouldn't make any difference... :thinking: You sure the 430 is getting a good clear look at the ST-E2 master? For various reasons, flash sometimes promotes lighting patterns that can fool evaluative metering, like bright reflections from one area set against adjacent dark shadows, can make it 'smart' brain jump the wrong way - try centre-weighted which just reads the situation as it is.
 
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I only shoot centre weighted mate. That's what I mean, when I use ETTL the pics are not as sharp.
it's way too big to carry around like that mate, that's why I use it off camera. It@s always in the same position ETTL or manual, and no contionuous pics, so that's why I'm wondering if it's the flash gun.
 
I only shoot centre weighted mate. That's what I mean, when I use ETTL the pics are not as sharp.
it's way too big to carry around like that mate, that's why I use it off camera. It@s always in the same position ETTL or manual, and no contionuous pics, so that's why I'm wondering if it's the flash gun.

Second image says pattern metering on the exif, and sharpness has nothing to do with exposure.

I'm wondering if the ST-E2 is being foxed by the pre-flash going through the Orbis and messing things up (can happen when using a Stofen on-camera). Possible. Another one is at close range E-TTL just uses distance data from the lens focusing distance, which overrides the pre-flash feedback.

Could be a few things, but if your flash exposure is two stops out then there's something wrong, though you need to do something more controlled to pin-point it.
 
Second image says pattern metering on the exif, and sharpness has nothing to do with exposure.

I'm wondering if the ST-E2 is being foxed by the pre-flash going through the Orbis and messing things up (can happen when using a Stofen on-camera). Possible. Another one is at close range E-TTL just uses distance data from the lens focusing distance, which overrides the pre-flash feedback.

Could be a few things, but if your flash exposure is two stops out then there's something wrong, though you need to do something more controlled to pin-point it.

Sorry my mistake. I am using pattern yes, used centre weighthed before but had the same issue. Could it be an issue Cause I am only using the centre autofocus point?Maybe i should just try a full camera reset. I know what you mean about the ST but sometimes it works, sometimes it's silly. It's like it doesn't make the lens focus properly. What would you suggest as a way to test it?
 
Another factor, do the lasers in the clubs have any effect??
 
Sorry my mistake. I am using pattern yes, used centre weighthed before but had the same issue. Could it be an issue Cause I am only using the centre autofocus point?Maybe i should just try a full camera reset. I know what you mean about the ST but sometimes it works, sometimes it's silly. It's like it doesn't make the lens focus properly. What would you suggest as a way to test it?

Another factor, do the lasers in the clubs have any effect??

Focusing distance can affect flash exposure in E-TTL, but flash cannot affect focus.

Suggest you test it at home, just pics of someone on the sofa will replicate that scene above, but give you a bit of time to get things right and note what's happening.

Make sure the 430's receiver window can get a clear line of sight view of the front of the ST-E2. Start without the Orbis, which has got to be a suspect. If I had a hunch, it would be the Orbis is taking so much out of the pre-flash, the camera is not getting enough info back to estimate a good exposure. And given that you're not using it as a ring flash here, you might be better off with something else.

Lasers won't affect anything, unless they're shining on the receiver.
 
The shot's used to come out fine before. Just done a proper reset and I can already see a difference. I will also clean all contacts everywhere and test with another 430ex2 on Tuesday and report back!Thanks Richard
 
Harry....are these definitely 430EXII's or the 430EX's ?

The original 430EX (and 580EX) had a firmware problem that could result in incorrect exposure when used on APS-C bodies. I believe that Canon fixed the problem FoC but never actually publicised the issue.

Bob
 
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Harry....are these definitely 430EXII's or the 430EX's ?

The original 430EX (and 580EX) had a firmware problem that could result in incorrect exposure when used on APS-C bodies. I belive that Canon fixed the problem FoC but never actually publicised the issue.

Bob
430ex2 mate. I do suspect that there is something wrong with the flash too, as when it's on the camera body, it will emit full power sometimes for 2 or 3 shots without reason.
 
430ex2 mate. I do suspect that there is something wrong with the flash too, as when it's on the camera body, it will emit full power sometimes for 2 or 3 shots without reason.

That's not right at all. Does it happen mostly in vertical framing? Could be dodgy contacts, camera hot shoe a bit loose (they can do that), or summat inside.
 
Checked them all mate and shots at any angle. Seems a common problem searching on google.
 
silly question, but have you tried it with fresh batteries? I know the Jessops I had would do strange things (including full power dumps) when the batteries were low.

thanks
rick
 
If I had a hunch, it would be the Orbis is taking so much out of the pre-flash, the camera is not getting enough info back to estimate a good exposure

I put my money on that, as the pre-flash is only at 1/32 power, - god knows how much from the Orbis
 
I'd advise shooting with manual settings on the flash. The pre-flash, as already stated, is quite low powered and that can cause quite wild variations in final power in TTL. Save yourself the hassle and shoot in manual, both camera and flash.

Personally if you weren't using the ring flash on camera I'd replace it with a small beauty dish or softbox. You lose a lot power by using it and, to be honest, you also lose all the benefits by moving it off camera (unless you use it as a light fill).
 
The exif is reporting 1/20 at ISO 1600 and F3.5 - What is the shooting mode - manual, Aperature priority, Auto - the soft focus could be simply too low a shutter speed, as the background is being exposed I would surmise Av.
The mode will affect the flash and how the flash works; if the flash is the Main / Only light source shoot in either P-Programme mode or better still manual. Wan't waffle anymore at this point :).
 
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Right, found the problem. There is play between the hotshoe/st-e2 connectors. All I do now is just make sure that either the flash or st-e2 rests against my head somewhere when shooting, so it canpush it onto the connectors properly. Sorted. Still have full power emitting from the flash sometimes but it's no big issue.
 
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