Me too.I did for a little while, but nothing seemed to change, so once a year now.
I'm new to calibrating, and I've found the results on my M1 MacBoo Pro a bit weird sometimes. What were neutral areas like text boxes in some social media (or Wordle), suddenly taking a pink tinge, for instance. I'm beginning to realise that the bit about not allowing light to fall onto the screen means being a lot lot more careful than I was! Not sure it's going to be worth while as (a) I mostly use black and white and (b) it appears my eyes see different colours for the same thing anyway (possibly the effect of that post cataract surgery thing that requires blasting with a laser). However, I've got the Spyder X Pro now, so I'll probably keep at it, but I've reduced the frequency.
Even with a calibrated monitor I turn the brightness right down when preparing for printing, it gives the best chance of having the prints come out like what is on screenAfter printing a photobook many years ago that came back too dar
A good point here. It is more important to regularly check the brightness. Backlit LCD screens gradually fade in brightness. Also not all calibration devices deal with brightness. I use a Spyder X which does. When the monitor is new, the brightness has to be set to around 20% but this gradually increases and, after about 6 years, is 100% so then time to replace the monitor.Even with a calibrated monitor I turn the brightness right down when preparing for printing, it gives the best chance of having the prints come out like what is on screen
Just as big of an issue is room brightness/ambient levels.A good point here. It is more important to regularly check the brightness. Backlit LCD screens gradually fade in brightness. Also not all calibration devices deal with brightness. I use a Spyder X which does. When the monitor is new, the brightness has to be set to around 20% but this gradually increases and, after about 6 years, is 100% so then time to replace the monitor.
Dave