Buying a medium format camera

Dazza, what do you mean by the B?
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The SQB is a simplified, less electronic version of the SQA/Ai.

It may be that some of the missing functions are important to you but if not, then it could free up a few more ££'s for glass.

IIRC, the biggest thing that's gone is the ability to have any metered prisms or heads, and the B setting. Although most of the lenses have the ability to lock open the shutter, so no bulb is not really a biggy.
 
:)

The SQ-B was nearly identical to the SQ-A, but had no contacts in the viewfinder area. Any SQ type prism could be attached, but because no power could be supplied to the finder, no metering capability would occur.
Also, because the finders couldn't meter, the back supplied with the SQ-B has no ISO dial.
The shutter speed range was the same as the SQ-A, with 8 seconds to 1/500.
The SQ-B retained the mirror lock-up feature of the SQ-A.

All of the lenses, finders, screens, backs, inserts, and the speed grip for the SQ cameras fit the SQ-B. The winding crank, battery, battery compartment door, and remote battery pack are the SQ and SQ-A type.

Also, began manufacturing in 96, so it may be a lot newer than an SQ-A, which began in 82.
 
Here's a question.

Will exposure times be different because of the larger format?

i.e. if I were to shoot f/8 1/125 ISO100 on my 40d and have a perfect exposure, would the medium format camera (excluding anything such as bellows) in the same situation have a perfect exposure at f/8 1/125 ISO100?
Obviously with similar equivalent focal lengths, i.e. 50mm digital and 80mm mf?
 
You can use your dslr to meter, if that's the question, it should be pretty close.

Film has a greater dynamic range though, blowouts on the 40D aren't necessarily going to be blowouts on film.
 
joxby said:
You can use your dslr to meter, if that's the question, it should be pretty close.

Film has a greater dynamic range though, blowouts on the 40D aren't necessarily going to be blowouts on film.
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Yeah I realise the latter :)

Ah, excellent. I'll use it kind of like how the pros used polaroid to check exposure before blowing film :)
Also saves me buying a light meter.
 
You can do that, but you'll soon get balled off with carrying all the bronica gear and a 2kg £500 lightmeter...:lol:

If there's no metering on the camera you get, take a look at lightmeters.
Been there, done that, it got to a stage where I was making a choice not to take film gear.......that's a very bad state of affairs :nono:
So I spent about 99p on a crusty old selenium lightmeter, it worked fine :shrug:
 
joxby said:
You can do that, but you'll soon get balled off with carrying all the bronica gear and a 2kg £500 lightmeter...:lol:

If there's no metering on the camera you get, take a look at lightmeters.
Been there, done that, it got to a stage where I was making a choice not to take film gear.......that's a very bad state of affairs :nono:
So I spent about 99p on a crusty old selenium lightmeter, it worked fine :shrug:
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Oh, I was under the impression that you had to spend £100 on a lightmeter (without even looking, I might add :D)

Well yeah there's no point in taking the 40d if I can get a lightmeter that cheap.

Only issue I have is that I do a smurf load of night photography and it's difficult to guess the exposure there. Ah well, guess I'll have to cope :p
 
foodpoison said:
Bronica SQ-A body
6x6 120 back
80mm lens

While those are all moderately cheap in their own thing, it's pretty difficult to find a complete one.
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Thats blown your budget, you still need a waist level or prism finder, and ideally another back (one for B&W, one Colour). And you'll need a wider lens for landscapes n cityscapes.

I'd try to find a forum regular near you to have a look and feel - only then in the outside world can you tell what you do and dont need.
 
percymon said:
Thats blown your budget, you still need a waist level or prism finder, and ideally another back (one for B&W, one Colour). And you'll need a wider lens for landscapes n cityscapes.

I'd try to find a forum regular near you to have a look and feel - only then in the outside world can you tell what you do and dont need.
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No, not necessarily.
I rarely go wider than 40mm on my Sigma 24-60 for landscapes/cityscapes.

Which is the equivalent of 60mm. Which is roughly an 80mm on MF.

I prefer the perspectives you get with a standard to telephoto.

Also, I don't need another back. I will probably get one in the future, but it isn't necessary for my needs.
A WLF is all I need really, so that's not an issue.
 
On ffordes, they have a Bronica SQ-A body at £79 that looks extremely neat, the 120 back with marks but full working order, £30, and then standard lenses that go for around £100 ish. Very much cheaper than the mamiya.
 
foodpoison, the 35mm equivalent for MF lenses is as follows:

40mm MF = 23mm in 35mm format
50mm MF = 28mm in 35mm format
75/80mm MF = 45mm in 35mm format (standard lens)
150mm MF = 85mm in 35mm format

For light meters, a simple selenium based one can usually be picked up for £30-odd. Also in you calculations you'll also need to add in a finder... waist level is the best of course :)

FYI, I have an SQ-A and it is a lovely camera to operate. :love:
 
Well Ffordes do at least offer a 3 month warranty unless they specify 'Sold as seen.'
 
The only issue with the SQ-A body is that I don't think it comes with the winding arm or the waist level finder. I don't know if the winding arm is a necessity, but the WLF is, and I can't find any anywhere, effectively making the body obsolete.
 
The ETRS is a fine camera. I got mine from Ffordes too and can highly recommend them.

The ETRS produces 15 shots 6cm x 4.5cm on a roll of 120 film. That price from Ffordes will probably be for the camera body, a film back, a 90mm lens and a waist level finder.

I like using a waist level finder but they are difficult to use if you need to turn the body on its side for a vertical image. In this case you will probably want to add a prism finder to it. There are two types: The cheaper option is a straight prism and the more expensive version has a lightmeter built in.

I have the ETRS with a prism and the RB67 with waist level finder and rotating back and I prefer to use the RB's rotating back than turning the ETRS 90 degrees for vertical shots. It is a personal thing though and you may prefer a prism.

Another good accesory is the hand grip. This has a wind on lever similar to those on 35mm cameras. Two strokes of the lever winds the film on, cocks the shutter and puts the mirror back in place. To fit this, you need to remove the winding arm so it can couple to the body.

The SQ has the same system so the most likely reason the SQ you looked at doesn't have the arm is because someone put a hand grip/winder on it and lost the original arm.



Steve.
 
I have no complaints about my ETR-Si - bought from mxv with std 75mm lens, body, WLF, winding arm and one film back for £180 last year.

My only downfall is not having a wider lens, but since you are happy with 40mm equivalent then you will just about cope with a standard lens.

Use of a WLF when taking portrait mode is interesting to say the least !
 
Just had a read up on both the Mamiya RB67 and the Bronica SQ-A.
I had absolutely no idea how heavy the RB67 was. Twice the weight of my 40d, and more than 5 times the weight of the SQ-A.
I think that sort of weight would put me off taking the camera out.

On the hunt for the SQ-A :)
 
LOL. It depends how you look at it. An RB67 only needs a small bag just enough to take the assembled camera and probably one other lens, so the combined weight is probably a lot less than a 40D and bagful of lenses.

I like the way the RB nestles in the crook of your arm - like a well fed puppy dog.:D
 
ETR models are indeed 6 x 4.5 format - still a pretty big negative :D

I have the ETRSi, extra lens and extra film back, half a dozen filters, lightmeter, 10 rolls of film in Crumpler Pretty boy XXL shoulder bag. It weighs about the same as if i repacked it with the EOS 5d, three medium lenses, and a flashgun. Perfectly manageable for a day out n about.

When holidaying last year i took the 5d and two lenses, plus all the above MF kit in a Lowepro rucksack. It was a bit too much to cart around every day, fortunately it didn't get weighed at check-in either !
 
Link's not working. :shrug:

That looks a sensible price for a camera you expect to use and get some mileage out of. Don't forget the light seals may need replacing though in any camera you buy of this vintage. It's a dead easy job to do yourself in an evening with the right kit though - that's doing the seals in the body and the mag back.

Other than that I know nuttin' at all about Bronnies.
 
I assume it's this one? Looks OK to me and the prism is a plus.

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I think you can only link to Ffordes front page.
 
Ah, pain in the bum.

Yeah, I'd expected to have to replace light seals. I believe it's a case of shining a torch into the camera and seeing if you can see anything through the expected places?

My car has it's MOT and a major service on tuesday, and I'm fully expecting that to eat into my funds :( poo :(
 
Shining a torch into the camera can be a help for finding light leaks in the body, but it wont help with the mag back.

The light seals in those old camera were made of a material which deteriorated over time to a sticky gooey mess or it goes very brittle and bits flake off if you touch it. They needed resealing every few years anyway. You might get lucky and pick up one that's been done and is OK. Modern sealing foams are far superior to the original stuff and once done the camera has a new lease of life for many years.

When you eventually get a camera have good luck at the seals in the body and the mag back. If you press them with your finger nail they should feel spongy and return to shape. If the mag back door closes with a slam like a Mark 1 Hillman Avenger it will be the seals for sure - there should be a slight resistance as you close it.
 
I'm not sure if there's anything else removed on the SQB but I've got a metered prism for my SQA and leave it switched off. It's centre-weighted or spot (can't remember) and it's miles off whenever I've used it, absolutely no good when shooting slide. Might just be mine but I leave it switched off and use a light meter. I do like the prism over the WLF on occasion. I think I'd like a 45degree one like that one in the picture more than my 90 degree on though.
 
CT said:
Shining a torch into the camera can be a help for finding light leaks in the body, but it wont help with the mag back.

The light seals in those old camera were made of a material which deteriorated over time to a sticky gooey mess or it goes very brittle and bits flake off if you touch it. They needed resealing every few years anyway. You might get lucky and pick up one that's been done and is OK. Modern sealing foams are far superior to the original stuff and once done the camera has a new lease of life for many years.

When you eventually get a camera have good luck at the seals in the body and the mag back. If you press them with your finger nail they should feel spongy and return to shape. If the mag back door closes with a slam like a Mark 1 Hillman Avenger it will be the seals for sure - there should be a slight resistance as you close it.
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Is it a fairly easy job to replace seals?
Any specific expensive tools/materials or procedures needed?
 
Kev M said:
I'm not sure if there's anything else removed on the SQB but I've got a metered prism for my SQA and leave it switched off. It's centre-weighted or spot (can't remember) and it's miles off whenever I've used it, absolutely no good when shooting slide. Might just be mine but I leave it switched off and use a light meter. I do like the prism over the WLF on occasion. I think I'd like a 45degree one like that one in the picture more than my 90 degree on though.
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Yeah, it's what I expect I'll be doing so it seems silly to buy the electronic version when I won't be using any of the electronics. I know there's more to it than just the electronics, but I think that's the jist of it.
 
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