Buying a (2nd) Car Privately. Sorted

205/45 R17, why?
Which brand. Mx-5's are sensitive to tyres. The new ones have the Bridgestone potenza run flats, I've put kuhmo on as the were 50 quid a tyre cheaper but they are not as firm on the sidewall, still ok but the car doesn't feel as planted. Continentals and toyo t1r are also supposed to be good.

If you need all 4 you should get a discount.
 
Most are like that

Although a lot have either been dropped (well, someone's taken an angle grinder to a turn of spring...) or have knackered springs!
 
Which brand. Mx-5's are sensitive to tyres. The new ones have the Bridgestone potenza run flats, I've put kuhmo on as the were 50 quid a tyre cheaper but they are not as firm on the sidewall, still ok but the car doesn't feel as planted. Continentals and toyo t1r are also supposed to be good.

If you need all 4 you should get a discount.
4 Kumho ecsta's on there now £300 all in. :-/
 
Supposed to be good, the mx5 owners forum swear by them. Not found any grip issues with ours
 
Supposed to be good, the mx5 owners forum swear by them. Not found any grip issues with ours
The way I drive (think doddery old fart) I doubt I'm likely to either.

Must join an MX5 forum actually. Any recce's? (I'm assuming you have an MX5?) I still dont know how to turn the front fog lights on. Not that I ever use fog lights.
 
For my old 5's I used to love Yokohama ad08's, a lot better in the wet than they look and the grip in the dry is immense. Look awesome as well but then I'm a tart with tyres! Not the longest lasting tyre but for enthusiastic driving can't be beat in imho
 
:D
Radio works well, just wish mazda had DAB. Got to change brake pads and disks all around on ours. original, never touched, everything is rather stiff and jammed when I looked at it Saturday.
 
:D
Radio works well, just wish mazda had DAB. Got to change brake pads and disks all around on ours. original, never touched, everything is rather stiff and jammed when I looked at it Saturday.
Yeah mechanic who inspected this one said the "grinding" sort of noise from the back was the pads on corroded brake discs. A few runs with the handbrake half on may sort it though. We shall see. If not quote was £150 for discs and new pads at rear.

Is yours soft or hard top? (I realise we are possibly straying into private conversation territory now) Was gonna ask how you look after the soft top? Ive got some autoglym sprays the seller gave me which was good of him so I'll give that a go.

Heres a pic of it on my drive for all the avid readers of this thread ;) :

View attachment 37013
 
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Full hard top - 2.0 Sports tech 2010 year. 13 secs up and down by pressing a button, as opposed to 2 secs down for the softtop :) but having to get out the car to raise it.
Since it's a photo site:

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On the old one I just washed the soft top. If you've a glass rear window then no issue, if it's plastic, you have to watch how it's folded, not sure they do plastic on the newer ones?

EBS disks and pads all around were £150 from mx5parts, so £150 fitted for rear is ok. Genuine mazda parts are more than that so see what he's fitting. Our rear brakes are rusted badly also.
 
13 secs up and down by pressing a button, as opposed to 2 secs down for the soft top :) but having to get out the car to raise it.
Nah. I can do it from sat down. Pull release lever between backrests of seats above cubby hole, petrol filler cap bit - reach over to handle on passenger side of roof to get it started then also grab handle above driver side and pull it over, click. Done.

Glass window on rear with heated element.

whats an EBS disk/pad?

Ta
 
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Disks and pads made by EBS.
 
OK just changed the rears on our mx5, disks and pads 30 mins both sides. Such an easy job, the braje caliper pots wind in for adjustment,
 
OK just changed the rears on our mx5, disks and pads 30 mins both sides. Such an easy job, the braje caliper pots wind in for adjustment,
Crikey. I assume you have all the correct tools etc. Would have thought brake disc bolts would be rusted solid and a right pain to get off/out.
 
Unbelievably easy. 14mm and 12mm socket and ring spanners. Remove wheel, remove calliper with 12mm socket, remove calliper holder with 14mm socket, bash disk with rubber mallet and it comes off. The caliper pot has a huge cross cut into it, use this to wind the caliper back in (I used a tyre lever on its side) and it gives a good 2-3mm gap extra over the new pads so the caliper is easy to fit back on.
 
Unbelievably easy. 14mm and 12mm socket and ring spanners. Remove wheel, remove calliper with 12mm socket, remove calliper holder with 14mm socket, bash disk with rubber mallet and it comes off. The caliper pot has a huge cross cut into it, use this to wind the caliper back in (I used a tyre lever on its side) and it gives a good 2-3mm gap extra over the new pads so the caliper is easy to fit back on.
After my "success" changing my cistern inlet valve I reckon I'll still hand it over to a tame mechanic if it comes to it.
 
£150 for rear discs and pads seems very excessive. You can buy Brembo discs for under £50 a pair and Brembo pads for under £40 on ebay. Even Euro Cap Parts can do Pagid for under £100 all in.
 
£150 for rear discs and pads seems very excessive. You can buy Brembo discs for under £50 a pair and Brembo pads for under £40 on ebay. Even Euro Cap Parts can do Pagid for under £100 all in.
So the quote from the garage for £150 was pretty good then, £90 ish of parts and £60 labour for an hour. Cant grumble at that.
 
So the quote from the garage for £150 was pretty good then, £90 ish of parts and £60 labour for an hour. Cant grumble at that.
Sorry misinterpreted your post, thought you meant £150 just to buy them.
 
So the quote from the garage for £150 was pretty good then, £90 ish of parts and £60 labour for an hour. Cant grumble at that.

TBH, the peace of mind that having a (supposedly and hopefully!) professional mechanic deal with brakes is worth the expense IMO.

IIRC, ours had EBC Green stuff pads fitted. Stopped plenty well for our needs!
 
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