Bought an old film camera

Carlh

Carlh

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I bought this camera off ebay, primarily not to use but for an artsy-fartsy setup shot with a smoking pipe and a copy of 1933 kodak photography magazine (am still on the hunt for some other vintage stuff to put in the scene, maybe some vintage film but the price of it is ridiculous)

Anyway - rather than just do the artsy-fartsy shot, I thought if I actually wanted to shoot of a roll just to see what it can produce, this would be the place in TP to ask as you're all film buffs (y)


This is a digi photo of it I took last week, while playing around with my lego-dead project :
Walking Dead - Zompic#1 by Carl Harrison, on Flickr

This is the description on the original ebay page when I purchased said camera;

Offered for sale is this VINTAGE GERMAN BALDA 'BALDAX' FOLDING CAMERA. Manufactured by Balda, in Germany, from the 1930's. This would seem to be an early model of the Baldex, with a lens and shutter that is not readily apparent in the Balda history pages. It comes in well-used, but sound condition, with a small amount of discolouration in the metal surround, (see photos), but not a distraction. The camera boasted a folding optical sports viewfinder, which later models had changed to a small tube-type finder.The bellows are good.,The camera has an art-deco silver and black lens panel a reflection of the period. The Vario shutter works at all speeds and the focusable f4.5 75mm Vidanar lens appears unscratched. The Baldax used 120 size film, giving sixteen 6cm x 4.5cm per roll.

I have to be honest, it seems more complicated to use than the digital! I shoot full manual on digital anyway and I do have a light meter if that helps as I imagine this probably doesn't have one. I dont even know if this thing uses batteries but Im assuming not if it is a 1930's camera (I am hoping it is a 1930s camera). Took me a few minutes to figure out how the thing opened and thats as far as I have got with it, as I said, I originally wasn't looking to use this - but I think why not, it'll give me a much bigger appreciation of these old cameras though I dont think I will end up developing the film myself and will probably send it off to get developed.

I can see the film is about £6 per box and its about £5.25 to get it produced into prints so not a major cost-risk in firing off some shots with it and Im looking on tinternet to see how it actually works, though the video's on youtube i am watching seem to be a newer version of that camera.

I'd love to clean this old lady up, so are there any recommendations for (1) the metal (2) the body (I think its some kind of leather?) I assume my lens cleaning gear is ok for the lens, but any suggestions for cleaning the fold old bellow-bit, internals or even if it will require a strip down - which I am not going to be confident in doing, especially if its some small mechanical parts - if I do any of this, it will be after I do the staged shot (as it looks genuine being worn and tatty at the moment).

Any hints on getting this old girl fired up and working would be appreciated and of course, I'd love to pop up my results in the film section. I have a normal scanner so I suppose if I scan the prints with that sucker as a TIFF, it would be sufficient?

Sorry for all the questions but best to get them out of the way in one post. Thanks to anyone who can help me (y)

EDIT: I think its upside down too! lol
 
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one of the first things (after checking that the shutter actually cocks and releases, and goes at (roughly) the speed that it says on the lens front (or at least that 25 is open longer than 50, which is open longer than 100 at least!) would be to check the bellows for light leaks. Easily done - with the camera empty of film, open the back of the camera, go into a darkened room with the camera and a torch, and put the torch inside the camera, shining the light around the inside of the bellows. You check the outside of the bellows for little pin-pricks of light leaking outwards... if the light from the torch leaks out, then the light from the sun will leak in and make "interesting" patterns on your film. If there ARE leaks, then it depends on the scale of them - I've found that black latex fabric paint is pretty good at repairing these leaks (and actually quite good at re-vamping the whole look of the bellows externally as well.) - as a repair, you'd actually dab the paint on from the inside, covering the holes - then leave the paint for a few days / a week or so to thoroughly dry/cure before folding the lens away - might take anything up to 4 or more coats to make sure it's completely light tight... But, I've rescued the bellows on cameras that were strongly resembling sieves in this way...

lots of other tips and tricks that people will no doubt mention - but that particular one is something I've had a small measure of success with...
 
TheBigYin said:
one of the first things (after checking that the shutter actually cocks and releases, and goes at (roughly) the speed that it says on the lens front (or at least that 25 is open longer than 50, which is open longer than 100 at least!) would be to check the bellows for light leaks. Easily done - with the camera empty of film, open the back of the camera, go into a darkened room with the camera and a torch, and put the torch inside the camera, shining the light around the inside of the bellows. You check the outside of the bellows for little pin-pricks of light leaking outwards... if the light from the torch leaks out, then the light from the sun will leak in and make "interesting" patterns on your film. If there ARE leaks, then it depends on the scale of them - I've found that black latex fabric paint is pretty good at repairing these leaks (and actually quite good at re-vamping the whole look of the bellows externally as well.) - as a repair, you'd actually dab the paint on from the inside, covering the holes - then leave the paint for a few days / a week or so to thoroughly dry/cure before folding the lens away - might take anything up to 4 or more coats to make sure it's completely light tight... But, I've rescued the bellows on cameras that were strongly resembling sieves in this way...

lots of other tips and tricks that people will no doubt mention - but that particular one is something I've had a small measure of success with...
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thats great mark (y) any cleaning tips? Its a bit rusty in parts (the hinges for the pop-out lens) could do with some sprucing up though it seems to be working ok as far as action. i.e. its not jamming or squeaking some metal cleaner and some wd40?
 
btw, i bought a lot-set of old cameras from the old bay, some probably dont work, a lot of the camera look early 80's maybe 70's so will have to go through them and see what goodies are there. Poundland for cheapo film be ok? Is there specific film I need to get or will 35mm (and recommend ISO?) will work?
 
Carlh said:
I can see the film is about £6 per box and its about £5.25 to get it produced into prints
Click to expand...

You can buy B&W 120 film in Boots, and they have a permanent buy-one-get-one-half-price deal that makes their prices competitive. Otherwise, there's https://www.7dayshop.com/products/i...l-film-black-and-white-print-film-WH2-1629017 which is £4.50 delivered. If you decided to go with colour, then Portra 160 or 400 are excellent choices.

Most people tend to get scans rather than prints these days. There's a sticky here - https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/tutorials/film-developing-in-the-uk.99/ - that lists options for dev/scans, and a link to a spreadsheet with prices.

As far as metering goes, then either a digital camera (set to the same ISO as your film, naturally - remember to turn off auto-ISO :) ) or an app on a compatible smartphone are ideal.

Carlh said:
Poundland for cheapo film be ok?
Click to expand...

AGFA Vista from Poundland is excellent value for money as far as 35mm colour film goes. If you have an ASDA that processes film near you, then that's ideal - they do cheap process and scans, but they won't process the 120 from the folder.
 
most of the time I've cleaned (well, removed dust/gunk) using a cotton bud with a drop or two of lighter-fluid on it on the metal parts - it clears off any old dust and oil, which is usually enough) - if there's actual RUST, then one trick I've used is an old "typewriter eraser pencil" - basically, it's a ink-eraser - so rubber with some form of gritty agregate in it. Rough enough to remove surface rust (eventually) but not so rough that it actually knackers the finish... Hardest bit is getting the rubber-dust out afterwards - which is where the cotton-buds and lighter fluid comes in again.

I tend not to re-oil things - usually the slight residue from the lighter fluid is enough - but if it's something that specifically NEEDS oiling, then i'd use as light a machine oil as possible - sewing machine oil used to be the recommendation BITD if I remember correctly.
 
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abdoujaparov said:
You can buy B&W 120 film in Boots, and they have a permanent buy-one-get-one-half-price deal that makes their prices competitive. Otherwise, there's https://www.7dayshop.com/products/i...l-film-black-and-white-print-film-WH2-1629017 which is £4.50 delivered. If you decided to go with colour, then Portra 160 or 400 are excellent choices.

Most people tend to get scans rather than prints these days. There's a sticky here - https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/tutorials/film-developing-in-the-uk.99/ - that lists options for dev/scans, and a link to a spreadsheet with prices.

As far as metering goes, then either a digital camera (set to the same ISO as your film, naturally - remember to turn off auto-ISO :) ) or an app on a compatible smartphone are ideal.



AGFA Vista from Poundland is excellent value for money as far as 35mm colour film goes. If you have an ASDA that processes film near you, then that's ideal - they do cheap process and scans, but they won't process the 120 from the folder.
Click to expand...
(y) cheers Keith, will go read up on the sticky, cheers :)


TheBigYin said:
most of the time I've cleaned (well, removed dust/gunk) using a cotton bud with a drop or two of lighter-fluid on it on the metal parts - it clears off any old dust and oil, which is usually enough) - if there's actual RUST, then one trick I've used is an old "typewriter eraser pencil" - basically, it's a ink-eraser - so rubber with some form of gritty agregate in it. Rough enough to remove surface rust (eventually) but not so rough that it actually knackers the finish... Hardest bit is getting the rubber-dust out afterwards - which is where the cotton-buds and lighter fluid comes in again.

I tend not to re-oil things - usually the slight residue from the lighter fluid is enough - but if it's something that specifically NEEDS oiling, then i'd use as light a machine oil as possible - sewing machine oil used to be the recommendation BITD if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...
Brilliant - thanks matey (y)
 
abdoujaparov said:
You can buy B&W 120 film in Boots, and they have a permanent buy-one-get-one-half-price deal that makes their prices competitive. Otherwise, there's https://www.7dayshop.com/products/i...l-film-black-and-white-print-film-WH2-1629017 which is £4.50 delivered. If you decided to go with colour, then Portra 160 or 400 are excellent choices.

Most people tend to get scans rather than prints these days. There's a sticky here - https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/tutorials/film-developing-in-the-uk.99/ - that lists options for dev/scans, and a link to a spreadsheet with prices.

As far as metering goes, then either a digital camera (set to the same ISO as your film, naturally - remember to turn off auto-ISO :) ) or an app on a compatible smartphone are ideal.



AGFA Vista from Poundland is excellent value for money as far as 35mm colour film goes. If you have an ASDA that processes film near you, then that's ideal - they do cheap process and scans, but they won't process the 120 from the folder.
Click to expand...
Looked on 7day, they have this which is 22mp but doesn't say 120 - not knowing what the "120" actually means, will it be compatible, seems a great price (£50 off)
https://www.7dayshop.com/slide-nega...slide-negative-film-scanner-with-16gb-sd-card
 
120 is one of the few remaining of the dozens of standard roll film sizes. Depending on how old the cameras are you might have more or less luck getting film for them. The poundland stuff is only 35mm (135) which won't fit in the camera above but might in some of the others in your new collection.
 
That scanner only covers 35mm film, not 120 (medium format). Also, those scanners are basically a webcam with a lightbox so not the greatest quality.
 
steveo_mcg said:
120 is one of the few remaining of the dozens of standard roll film sizes. Depending on how old the cameras are you might have more or less luck getting film for them. The poundland stuff is only 35mm (135) which won't fit in the camera above but might in some of the others in your new collection.
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ahhh. okey doke, i'll go through the other cameras over the weekend and get some details on them, then see what will go for them. they all look like old compacts so i assume they'll all be 35mm standard stuff, but I'll check (y)
 
Carlh said:
Looked on 7day, they have this which is 22mp but doesn't say 120 - not knowing what the "120" actually means, will it be compatible, seems a great price (£50 off)
https://www.7dayshop.com/slide-nega...slide-negative-film-scanner-with-16gb-sd-card
Click to expand...

I wouldn't, if I were you. You can get a flatbed scanner of much higher quality, which will do both 120 film and 135 (35mm) film, second hand, for not a huge amount more than that. Also, I'd get some film shot and developed before you spend money on a scanner - film might not be for you.

And yes, to clarify, you need 120 film for that folder, but the compacts will almost certainly be 135 (35mm). The folder will produce negatives that are 6cm x 4.5cm (ish, almost) so substantially bigger than the 35mm ones, so you'll be able to get a lot more detail out of one.
 
Andysnap said:
Hi Carl,

For a bit of cheaper b&w try fomapan, either 100 or 200 ISO (the 400 is a bit ropey tbh).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Foma-Foma...482283?hash=item3f5dd99d2b:g:OQoAAOSwm8VUulJl

Just a link to a random one, I have no connection with the seller.

If you want a couple of rolls developing and scanning send them over here and I'll do it and pop the results on a disc. (y)

Cheers

Andy
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Thats a very kind off Andy - very kind (y) Have added the film to my ebay basket (y)

abdoujaparov said:
I wouldn't, if I were you. You can get a flatbed scanner of much higher quality, which will do both 120 film and 135 (35mm) film, second hand, for not a huge amount more than that. Also, I'd get some film shot and developed before you spend money on a scanner - film might not be for you.

And yes, to clarify, you need 120 film for that folder, but the compacts will almost certainly be 135 (35mm). The folder will produce negatives that are 6cm x 4.5cm (ish, almost) so substantially bigger than the 35mm ones, so you'll be able to get a lot more detail out of one.
Click to expand...
Will do Keith, its not so bad to get developed - as you say, it might not be my thing but I thought while i have the kit, I just as well make the most of it :)
 
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