Best way to photograph shiny metal pcs

355858

355858

Suspended / Banned
Messages
679
Name
Ben
Edit My Images
Yes
HI all,

I've been asked to shoot small components for work, gold played I keep having lighting issues as the parts are so reflective any ideas??
 
A good light set up and use manual exposure with a bit of trial and error to get the right settings. I used to have a 3 strobe light setup to get decent shots of silver jewellery.
 
If you've got time, I'd recommend trying to get a copy of Light Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting. It'll show you some basic setups for shooting metal objects.

If I remember rightly, you'll want to use a large diffused light source and place the camera at the appropriate angle. You'll probably also need to use a gobo (piece of card) to block the light hitting certain parts of the object. The book would give you all the details though.
 
You used to be able to get a spray that dulled the reflections by giving the metal a matt finish, wiped off afterwards, not sure if its still available though, Google might find it. Kenro kenair apparently.
 
Last edited:
AlfyB said:
If you've got time, I'd recommend trying to get a copy of Light Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting. It'll show you some basic setups for shooting metal objects.
Click to expand...

+1
This is the lighting guide everyone needs.
 
Hi, One little trick that I sometimes use in the studio is to put the item in the fridge for a little while (providing it'll not damage it) before shooting. When you take it out of the fridge it should mist up just enough to reduce the reflections for a while perfectly for shooting.

It works for me.!!!

Hope this helps.
 
I'd look at getting a light tent and some continuous lighting for it. I used a tent and a studio flash for my latest photos of lenses on Flickr and it cut the reflections to nearly nothing but with continuous light it might cut that even more.

10225679644_52552efaaa_b.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

10225864613_c4aca063d5_b.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

There's a bit of a flare on the gold band of the 18-270 but I'm happy enough with the light
 
modchild said:
I'd look at getting a light tent and some continuous lighting for it. I used a tent and a studio flash for my latest photos of lenses on Flickr and it cut the reflections to nearly nothing but with continuous light it might cut that even more. [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] There's a bit of a flare on the gold band of the 18-270 but I'm happy enough with the light
Click to expand...

I don't understand why flash and continuous would have different reflections in a light tent?

To the OP, it depends whether you're trying to have tidy controlled reflections or no reflections

But it's all about control, a light tent is quick and dirty, it'll get you 'something' that might be acceptable.
 
Phil V said:
I don't understand why flash and continuous would have different reflections in a light tent?
Click to expand...

I don't know whether it would make any difference TBH, it's just that I used flash and got the slight reflection, maybe a continuous light wouldn't have the same brightness so maybe it wouldn't cause the reflection. I haven't tried using continuous lighting and for the amount of times I'd need it I wont bother. Maybe the OP will have an ongoing thing for taking computer parts.
 
modchild said:
I don't know whether it would make any difference TBH, it's just that I used flash and got the slight reflection, maybe a continuous light wouldn't have the same brightness so maybe it wouldn't cause the reflection. I haven't tried using continuous lighting and for the amount of times I'd need it I wont bother. Maybe the OP will have an ongoing thing for taking computer parts.
Click to expand...

Sorry I should have been more blunt, the size shape and position of lights is what creates their 'quality' or the way they behave. You can take it as read that it makes no difference if they're tungsten, LED, flashguns, studio lights etc etc.

To create uncluttered reflections, the simple trick - is to create uncluttered reflections (remove the clutter). To get rid of specular highlights, it should be obvious - increase the size of the light source and position it carefully (as linked previously).

In your example, you can see how brilliantly clean the light tent has made lovely highlights on the body of the lens. But you've almost hidden the downside - which is the fact that the lens just reflects all that large light source back. Here's how Garry would have lit it.
 
The way that we would do this commercially would be with several lights and then by using white cards, black cards and tracing paper to place or remove reflections. That way you have good control over the image and how it will look in the final shot.

There is no point, for example, just using a light tent as this will often leave the shiny item looking dull and matte. Dulling sprays can give the same look. Better to do it properly and have an accurate representation of the product.
 
CharlotteM said:
The way that we would do this commercially would be with several lights and then by using white cards, black cards and tracing paper to place or remove reflections. That way you have good control over the image and how it will look in the final shot.

There is no point, for example, just using a light tent as this will often leave the shiny item looking dull and matte. Dulling sprays can give the same look. Better to do it properly and have an accurate representation of the product.
Click to expand...

This is good advice. Some of the highlights are what gives the componant definition and if its product photography it has to look accurate, for example something in stainless steel when dull just looks like mild steel. With a bit of work on placement against the light source, and careful control of the light and you should get a really nice image. With this setup though there is no room for error in WB, so its best to use grey cards.
 
SThornton said:
How come? I've never tried it on metal but always found them good for shiney surfaces when I've been shooting outdoors.
Click to expand...

Light from metal is not polarised due to the electromagnetic properties of light rays. OK on painted metal and other shiny surfaces though
 
cw318is said:
With this setup though there is no room for error in WB, so its best to use grey cards.
Click to expand...

Not if you're shooting RAW, you can change it afterwards. But if you're shooting high volume or colour critical work it is best to record a colour card for the days work.
 
Shiny metal objects act as mirrors. What you see is a refection in the object. You need to determine where that reflection is and place white card or similar so that is reflected in the object.

A simple option is to make a light tent. This is simply a large sheet of white translucent paper made into a cone with the object placed in the centre. It's then photographed through the hole in the top. Lighting is on the outside and diffuses through the paper Adjust the lighting from both sides to give it some shape. Adding strips of dark material to the inside of the cone also gives some character dark areas

Alternatively you could use sheets of polystyrene as the reflectors if its a table top shoot. This is a little more complicated but can be more versatile. This was the way I used to do it with a soft light fro the top.

Dulling sprays could work, but I've found they tend to give a very flat result. Not ideal for shiney surfaces
 
I used to shoot all the products at my last work, big metal boxes of pc kit etc.

Various lighting ways - big softbox, diffused lighting, bouncing studio lights off white boards. All worth experimenting with.
Don't forget light painting either. Take a long exposure in a darkened room and light with a diffused light source. Works a treat.
 
dizzledazzle said:
I also was going to mention a polarising filter but having never used one on metal i have no idea if it would work!
Click to expand...

No. They only work with non metallic surfaces.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top