Awful pictures again

kelack said:
I have a tripod which is a pain in the rear end to use for rugby which I have found from experience so I got myself a monopod.
Click to expand...
You may not like having to use a tripod or a monopod, kelack, but your shots make painfully obvious that you need to use one: there's truckloads of not just subject movement, but also camera movement there!
 
Just looked at my football photo's from two weeks ago. Cold, frosty, very misty and poor light. I was shooting at ISO400, f4.0 with shutter speed varying between 400 and 640.

I use the canon 70-200 L f4. I like this lens as it's light at 0.7kg but produces crisp photo's. I usually open it wide, then check my shutter speed is at least 250plus.

Having said that - I went to my first rugby yesterday and didn't even get my camera out of it's bag, due to the cold wind and heavy rain/ice showers.
 
kelack said:
I was using a monopod yesterday.
Click to expand...

W.Smith said:
You may not like having to use a tripod or a monopod, kelack, but your shots make painfully obvious that you need to use one: there's truckloads of not just subject movement, but also camera movement there!
Click to expand...

:bang: I wasusing my monop[od, which is what my posts way up where says. And I don't recall ever saying I didn't like using either tripod or monopod. Just very difficult to use tripod in the conditions that Kent 2 rugby plays. And I love using my monopod - thanks for your input though
 
Witch said:
You're clearly keen and you obviously enjoy your subject matter
Click to expand...

Should hope so - husband is Number 12 :lol: Definitely enjoy my subject matter :lol: Thanks for your advice though - will bear it in mind this Saturday



DiddyDave said:
she (sorry it is a she right?)
Click to expand...

Definitely a she :lol::lol::lol::lol:


Thanks everyone for your advice. Going to try out different thigns on Saturday then. Bet you it will be sunny, sunny I can cope with (sort of) :lol:
 
Milestone said:
You have broken one of the "golden" rules of photography with the images above. If you are shooting at 100mm then you need at least 1/100th of a second shutter speed.
Upping the ISO to the max, therefore allowing you to increase the shutter speed will give you sharper results, but as already mentioned they will be noisy.
Click to expand...

Right, I'm obviously not on the right settings. I turn my dial to S and change it to 250, I then go to A and put it lowest I can go (4.5 usually). I have it on Spot Metering and continuous AF and have the continouous shot mode, I put on ISO 400 and cheat by leaving it on AWB (little steps). I leave it on A

Should I be doing all of that?
 
Diddydave has rather missed my point. What I was getting at wasn't that kelack won't eventually need to spend money on better glass - if she wants to carry on and progress she will in the end, but the point was that clearly some more knowledge is required first as she didn't realise what was causing the problem in the first place. If she had my 70-200 f2.8 IS to play with, if she had the camera set at 1/50th @ 200mm she'd STILL have a problem!!
 
Is that an offer Witch :lol::lol::lol:
 
You shouldn't change the shutter speed in S, then change the Aperature in A, as one will override the other.. I.E. if you change the shutter speed, the camera will automatically adjust the Aperature, in S mode. the only way to have full control over both is to change to M mode.

The ISO you can change in any of the modes you've mentioned though. :)
 
:bang::bang::bang: I feel stupid now

thanks though, have been scratching my head. Time to dig the manual out again. Have no excuse now I have no revision to do
 
You could move to 'M' and set everything yourself, or you could set it to 'S' the shutter speed to something around 1/500 in order to freeze any movement and letting the camera decide the aperture. :)

If the aperture required is too large for the lens to handle then you'll have to increase the ISO.
 
Thanks Milestone:)
 
kelack said:
Is that an offer Witch :lol::lol::lol:
Click to expand...

If I ever get a spare one then I'll bear you in mind!! :D

As you say - time to get the manual out and go back over the basics. Why not also get suggestions from people on here for a good book which will help you with the foundations - the basics - of photography, and add that to your Christmas list?! Don't get disheartened though - you WILL get there in the end - I did, and if I can, anyone can! (Oh - and if anyone had any doubts about my backing for my comments re not buying new glass in the first instance, it wasn't long ago I was doing my speedway shooting with a Sigma 100-300 f4.5 - 6.7 and a D30!!) :lol:
 
Some very good advice from lots of people here as always. If the light is bad look for times when there is not much movement in the game, for instance when the line out jumpers reach their height when going for the ball, there will be a split second when their is little motion, also the camera will be metering for part of the sky which might help. here is an example taken last winter:

_CBG0238.jpg


If your camera has an Auto ISO function use that with your aperture at its widest setting, a minmum S/S of 1/250th and let the ISO change as required.

Hope this helps.
 
Drop down the aperture, or bump up the ISO. Not much more to it really?
 
LOL - that will be our lads from the Harlow Rams there then Hacker?!!
 
Hacker said:
Some very good advice from lots of people here as always. If the light is bad look for times when there is not much movement in the game, for instance when the line out jumpers reach their height when going for the ball, there will be a split second when their is little motion, also the camera will be metering for part of the sky which might help. here is an example taken last winter:

If your camera has an Auto ISO function use that with your aperture at its widest setting, a minmum S/S of 1/250th and let the ISO change as required.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Cheers for your advice and great pic Hacker, have tons of line outs and rucks and mauls that came out okay, was trying for some action ones as every Tuesday night when I go up the club with the laptop I get "plenty of forwards pictures then, where's ours" type comments from the backs :lol:
 
To be honest, with little experience don't bother with M (Manual) at all, they almost certainly won't be exposed correctly. Select ISO800 and A (Arperture Priority) and then the camera adjusts the shutter speed to the aperture so set the aperture wide open (6.3). When you half press the shutter it should display the shutter speed it's decided on. If this is slower than about 300 (1/300th sec) increase the ISO to 1600. Should start seeing some better results then :)

Another alternative would be not to zoom in so far, this way you can get a larger aperture and freeze the action, then crop down aftewards :)

EDIT: Depending on how close you are to the action, a good flash may also help
 
Thanks Craig

I'm pitchside - sometimes a little too close, have ended up on my backside a couple of times where I haven't realised how close they are and have ended up in midst of a tackle :lol:
 
kelack said:
Thanks Craig

I'm pitchside - sometimes a little too close, have ended up on my backside a couple of times where I haven't realised how close they are and have ended up in midst of a tackle :lol:
Click to expand...

:lol: Rather you than me!

In that case, don't bother with a faster lens, try what I said previously and maybe get a decent flash then you can bring the ISO back down for the closer stuff :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top