Anyone know about cars?

IanC

IanC

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Probably used by a granny once a week to go to the shops.
My wife's grandad has a Kia ceed and has done a similar mileage as he only uses it once a week.
It wouldn't worry me, as long as it's got full service history and a new mot.
I imagine they kept it til the warranty was up and bought a new one, my wife does the same and she also only does silly little mileage.
I think she's done 1000miles in the last 3 years.
 
Phone them up for more details. Mine is the same age and only done 40k 30 of which were bye on the last few years. Ours was a 3 year old ex mobility when we bought it with 11k on the clock.
 
For that kind of car it wouldn't concern me. I'd take it on a good blast though for a while as I can imagine it is all a bit tight and sluggishly driven.

But hey if you like it, it drives well, sounds good then what's the issue?
 
rjbell said:
Phone them up for more details. Mine is the same age and only done 40k 30 of which were bye on the last few years. Ours was a 3 year old ex mobility when we bought it with 11k on the clock.
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Thanks, how are you finding yours so far? Chain belt, no timing belt or dpf to worry about, sounds ideal :)
 
IanC said:
Thanks, how are you finding yours so far? Chain belt, no timing belt or dpf to worry about, sounds ideal :)
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Sorry not the same car. I referring to the low mileage.
 
I drive a ceed diesel at work. It looks crap, drives crap, is pithless and uncomfortable. Raft!!!!
 
Here in Glasgow I see numerous adverts for digital mileage correction on every other lamp post. Drive 15k a year, make it 5k before your next service and mot. Simple if you are a thug
 
BRASH said:
I drive a ceed diesel at work. It looks crap, drives crap, is pithless and uncomfortable. Raft!!!!
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An obvious advice would be to get a 3.0TDI Audi A6, but if OP is only going to drive to nearest supermarket and back, etc then it might just be OK?
 
daugirdas said:
An obvious advice would be to get a 3.0TDI Audi A6, but if OP is only going to drive to nearest supermarket and back, etc then it might just be OK?
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No, if it's anything like the one I drive at work it'll still look crap, drive crap and be a pithless uncomfortable raft, where ever and regardless of how far it's driven.
 
I recently replaced my car and considered a CEE'D (could have had a <2YO version for the price of the 4YO Mini I bought) but reading through the reviews the impression I had was of a dull drive, often poor economy and that the 7 year warranty was necessary. If it's the right price then no reason not to go try it and make up your own mind - ask for MOT certs, bills, repair and service records etc.
 
Fwiw its tax was due 1st August but MOT until Feb 2016

Checked the above on the DVLA public info site.

Was it taken off the road that many weeks ago as such what is its service history and who or rather what were its owners. If you have a friendly local garage that does MOT's they (if they are able/willing) can check the mileages at each MOT and other info that might help you qualify how kosher it is???
 
Box Brownie said:
Fwiw its tax was due 1st August but MOT until Feb 2016

Checked the above on the DVLA public info site.

Was it taken off the road that many weeks ago as such what is its service history and who or rather what were its owners. If you have a friendly local garage that does MOT's they (if they are able/willing) can check the mileages at each MOT and other info that might help you qualify how kosher it is???
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Dealer could have had the car since August and tax is non transferable since last year so probably not a worry. What could be a worry is the mileage for the year. Depending on whether the engine is cast iron or aluminium, diesels engines take along time to warm up compared to petrol. If it's only been used for short journeys and never warmed up properly, the oil becomes diluted and should be replaced a lot more regularly than the standard yearly interval. Unless there is proof of an oil change at least twice a year, I'd give it a miss personally.
 
Box Brownie said:
Fwiw its tax was due 1st August but MOT until Feb 2016

Checked the above on the DVLA public info site.

Was it taken off the road that many weeks ago as such what is its service history and who or rather what were its owners. If you have a friendly local garage that does MOT's they (if they are able/willing) can check the mileages at each MOT and other info that might help you qualify how kosher it is???
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You can do is on the Internet, search MOT INFO. It's a free check. Saved me buying a car that had done 80k more than advertised.

You need the reference number off the V5 though which some dealers don't like giving out.
 
Box Brownie said:
Fwiw its tax was due 1st August but MOT until Feb 2016

Checked the above on the DVLA public info site.

Was it taken off the road that many weeks ago as such what is its service history and who or rather what were its owners. If you have a friendly local garage that does MOT's they (if they are able/willing) can check the mileages at each MOT and other info that might help you qualify how kosher it is???
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You can do is on the Internet, search MOT INFO. It's a free check. Saved me buying a car that had done 80k more than advertised.

You need the reference number off the V5 though which some dealers don't like giving out.
 
nilagin said:
Dealer could have had the car since August and tax is non transferable since last year so probably not a worry. What could be a worry is the mileage for the year. Depending on whether the engine is cast iron or aluminium, diesels engines take along time to warm up compared to petrol. If it's only been used for short journeys and never warmed up properly, the oil becomes diluted and should be replaced a lot more regularly than the standard yearly interval. Unless there is proof of an oil change at least twice a year, I'd give it a miss personally.
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It was probably driven for a couple miles every other day all in 2nd gear at 35mph and slipping clutch; and had at most 3 oil changes (typical clueless old driver these days), or it has done 80k and has hidden history (I doubt KIA owners would do this - some other brands like Vauxhall Astra or Ford Fiesta driven by uneducated mob would raise more suspicion).
 
I reckon it could be ok, how about a nice long test drive?
Much as people moan about old drivers they often don't razz cars and keep em clean as a whistle, whats it like underneath?
 
MOT history is very useful. Shows you general level of care as repeated advisories suggest they don't keep on top of maintenance. You want bills and receipts with mileage to check against other events. The more history the better. Service books are a waste of time as you can buy those on ebay.
 
srichards said:
MOT history is very useful. Shows you general level of care as repeated advisories suggest they don't keep on top of maintenance. You want bills and receipts with mileage to check against other events. The more history the better. Service books are a waste of time as you can buy those on ebay.
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I had a car for about 8yrs, for 3 MOT's I got advisories of a small amount of play in the steering which would likely need looking at before the next MOT, never got it looked at, never got worse, not that it was noticeable when driving and then it no longer appeared on the advisories and I had the car another two years after that.

With mileage that low, I'd at least look at the exhaust, if it hasn't been replaced, it probably will do soon. The cat may well need replacing soon too, both are likely to be rotting from the inside out.
 
srichards said:
Service books are a waste of time as you can buy those on ebay.
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Potentially. You can call the dealer and verify if the work had been actually done - in fact you should. The c*** who sold my Passat didn't change gearbox oil and ticked the box. It would have grenaded by now if I didn't enquire.
 
daugirdas said:
Potentially. You can call the dealer and verify if the work had been actually done - in fact you should. The c*** who sold my Passat didn't change gearbox oil and ticked the box. It would have grenaded by now if I didn't enquire.
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Even main dealers are evasive. You ask what has been done and they just answer in a generic 'serviced to manufacturer's guidelines'. I just do everything when I get a car. It's easier.
 
srichards said:
Even main dealers are evasive. You ask what has been done and they just answer in a generic 'serviced to manufacturer's guidelines'. I just do everything when I get a car. It's easier.
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They will be evasive. However if asked has cambelt been done on such day at such mileage as written in the logbook they general give at least a firm yes or no. In my case: cambelt - yes; DSG oil - no. b****r that but at least I know and did what was required before leaving it too late.

What is worse it appears dealers are not doing all maintenance as required. Apparently changing DSG oil is up to a customer to ask for. They are only too happy to supply a new unit at a cost of used car.
 
Check out a KIA forum and ask about them in general.
Will the dealer supply a decent warranty?
 
Hi All, thanks for all the help, I got a call from the garage yesterday who said the kia mechanics checked it out after my initial concern and found a blockage in the turbo somewhere, apparently cleared it and it's alright now. I've decided not to go for it, it should of been sorted before I test drove it.

Now I'm looking for a golf tdi 1.9 or skoda octavia 1.9. Diesel.

If I could keep on driving mine I would, but the fly wheel is about to go any minute (lots of clinking noises coming from the engine)
 
IanC said:
Hi All, thanks for all the help, I got a call from the garage yesterday who said the kia mechanics checked it out after my initial concern and found a blockage in the turbo somewhere, apparently cleared it and it's alright now. I've decided not to go for it, it should of been sorted before I test drove it.

Now I'm looking for a golf tdi 1.9 or skoda octavia 1.9. Diesel.

If I could keep on driving mine I would, but the fly wheel is about to go any minute (lots of clinking noises coming from the engine)
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Replace the flywheel. It need not cost £1500 at the dealership prices. £300 ish should do it if you know a decent mechanic and good scrappy.
 
It also needs the cambelt replacing, 122,000 miles and never changed.

All quotes for the flywheel so far have been at least £600
 
daugirdas said:
Replace the flywheel. It need not cost £1500 at the dealership prices. £300 ish should do it if you know a decent mechanic and good scrappy.
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Why on earth would you want to fit a second hand flywheel that will also be on it's way to need replacing anyway.
 
nilagin said:
Why on earth would you want to fit a second hand flywheel that will also be on it's way to need replacing anyway.
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You find one recently replaced from a crashed car. £1k saving is surely worth it on an old banger
 
daugirdas said:
You find one recently replaced from a crashed car. £1k saving is surely worth it on an old banger
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Best of luck finding a car in a breakers with it's service history to tell you whether the flywheel has been recently changed and there are lots of cheap unreliable pattern parts out there, how would you know if you have found one of those or a reputable part. A new flywheel isn't going to cost £1k anyway. A lot of the cost of a replacement is down to labour charges.
 
IanC said:
It also needs the cambelt replacing, 122,000 miles and never changed.

All quotes for the flywheel so far have been at least £600
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Keep looking and keep asking around forums. These will not be well advertised places in prestigious part of town.

IanC said:
Does anyone know if this is the pd engine which everyone seems to rate so highly?

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...rom/2500/price-to/4500/page/1/usedcars?tech=1
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1.9 is great engine. You need an independent inspection if you want reassurance. Do not trust a dealer or any amount of paper work shown to you. In fact buy private if possible at all. £4.5k for a tiny 10 year old car is OUTRAGEOUS.
 
nilagin said:
Best of luck finding a car in a breakers with it's service history to tell you whether the flywheel has been recently changed and there are lots of cheap unreliable pattern parts out there, how would you know if you have found one of those or a reputable part. A new flywheel isn't going to cost £1k anyway. A lot of the cost of a replacement is down to labour charges.
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Parts are taken out and can be personally inspected. Please do not scaremonger from the dealership bible.
 
daugirdas said:
Parts are taken out and can be personally inspected. Please do not scaremonger from the dealership bible.
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I'm nothing to do with dealerships and it is nothing to do with scaremongering. As far as inspecting the item personally, you can only check for movement in the damping, you will have no idea of the true condition of the damping springs inside the flywheel plates. What could feel ok at the breakers, could still be noisy when fitted to the engine where greater torsional forces will be applied than what you physically can apply in a breakers. At least with a new part you get a guarantee. I can't see a garage giving you any kind of warranty on their work for fitting a second hand flywheel.
 
With jobs that require a fair amount of labour, it's generally worth doing as much as possibly while you're in there, like (using the flywheel example) doing the clutch plate and clutch slave cylinder (if hydraulic) since the labour costs will usually be far more than parts. Beware though - some places will charge their menu price for each job even though only one set of labour charges for much of the strip/reassembly is really chargeable...
 
Nod said:
With jobs that require a fair amount of labour, it's generally worth doing as much as possibly while you're in there, like (using the flywheel example) doing the clutch plate and clutch slave cylinder (if hydraulic) since the labour costs will usually be far more than parts. .
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That's why when I destroyed the slave cylinder on my previous car, I got them to do the flywheel and clutch too. The clutch was probably in need of doing and flywheel was showing signs of wear so made sense to get it all done at once. I had intended to keep the car for several more years at the time, had I known I was going to be changing the car 18 months later, I probably wouldn't have bothered about the flywheel though.
 
Do modern cars have the clutch slave cylinder in a position so inaccessible that it makes sense to replace it at clutch change time? I have replaced them, but on older cars. It was generally bolted to the bellhousing somewhere and a 30 minute job, including bleeding.
 
nilagin said:
I'm nothing to do with dealerships and it is nothing to do with scaremongering. As far as inspecting the item personally, you can only check for movement in the damping, you will have no idea of the true condition of the damping springs inside the flywheel plates. What could feel ok at the breakers, could still be noisy when fitted to the engine where greater torsional forces will be applied than what you physically can apply in a breakers. At least with a new part you get a guarantee. I can't see a garage giving you any kind of warranty on their work for fitting a second hand flywheel.
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If there is a genuine receipt for recent flywheel + clutch and it looks newish what not to trust? You could do 2 or 3 for the price of brand new. That's a no-brainer to me. It's your money and your choice how to spend it.

P.S. I'd most certainly get clutch inspected and replaced as needed too.

Or get an automatic next. Manual cars are torture.
 
daugirdas said:
If there is a genuine receipt for recent flywheel + clutch and it looks newish what not to trust? You could do 2 or 3 for the price of brand new. That's a no-brainer to me. It's your money and your choice how to spend it.

P.S. I'd most certainly get clutch inspected and replaced as needed too.

Or get an automatic next. Manual cars are torture.
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Again cars in breakers yards aren't really likely to have any service or repair bills lying around in them and you'd seriously use a 2nd hand clutch. Next you'll be telling me you use 2nd hand brake pads. Seriously some people should be kept well away from car ownership.
 
I wouldn't buy used parts for main components myself either, I had to buy a headlight for the citroen as the motor for adjustment had seized, my local garage sourced a complete unit for about £80 as against £200 new from main dealer. That's as far as I would go.
 
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