anyone into cycling / MTBing? - show us your bikes.

the only difference in the brake set up mentioned on the GT site between the 2 is that the 1.0 has dual piston calipers.
 
Nice! I haven't seen a bike with reverse mounted aero brake levers for a long time :thumbs:

The brake levers are not the best and combined with the original drops I found them not very good for city riding in traffic so I just chopped the bottom half of the drops off and mounted them upside down. The levers then fit better that way. The bars provide a better position for city riding and I get full braking power all the time :) And the horrible mauve/purple/jade green paint job keeps the thieves away :D

Unfortunately the headset is a bit worn so I am deciding whether I can swap this myself.
 
Head set is a P O P on that m8 if you have a good hammer and a long metal punch and a block of hard wood.

And easier again if you happen to have a headset press lying round in the kitchen draw.

remove the stem and front wheel, unscrew the headset lock nut and then the main nut. remove the fork steerer tube from the frame and pick up all the bearings tha fell out :D

Get your long punch and hammer and knock the bearing cups out of the frame, and then give the frame a clean.

Position the new bearing cups and then drive them in squarely using the hammer and wooden block.....you'll know when it's all the way home......it'll not move any more ;) and the sound will change.

grease and fit the new bearings and chuck the rest back together. Adjust the headset bearing preload so that there is no movement in the bearings and the forks are free to rotate without roughness.

job done :thumbs:
 
so about 5 minutes all done then. lol
 
Quite a few differences wez, nothing really major though

cheers btw all! I\m loving it so far, great fun thighs dont half ache though :(
 
Head set is a P O P on that m8 if you have a good hammer and a long metal punch and a block of hard wood.

And easier again if you happen to have a headset press lying round in the kitchen draw.

remove the stem and front wheel, unscrew the headset lock nut and then the main nut. remove the fork steerer tube from the frame and pick up all the bearings tha fell out :D

Get your long punch and hammer and knock the bearing cups out of the frame, and then give the frame a clean.

Position the new bearing cups and then drive them in squarely using the hammer and wooden block.....you'll know when it's all the way home......it'll not move any more ;) and the sound will change.

grease and fit the new bearings and chuck the rest back together. Adjust the headset bearing preload so that there is no movement in the bearings and the forks are free to rotate without roughness.

job done :thumbs:

Have you done this yourself? I have seen lots of warnings about difficulty of getting the cups parrallel and even spiltting the frame. I have seen some sites showing diy headset presses made out of long bolts or threaded bars, ie:

http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/06/headset-removal-and-replacement.html

http://www.mbaction.com/detail.asp?id=1440

and one with the block of wood technique;

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/headset2.htm

The bolt press looks quite neat so I may take a trip to the harware shop but suspect that the bits may cost a few pounds retail so I may just go for the block of wood first. I have a headset from another bike that will fit so if I can do it myself it will cost nothing as opposed to around £40 at a bike shop.

I keep putting it off as if it goes wrong I will be without transport until I get it fixed.
 
i thought the 1.0 had better disc brakes than the 2.0, they are the tectro auriga's, same as on the 2.0, so what's better on the 1.0 than on the 2.0?

The gears on the 1.0 are 9 speed Deore LX and Deore vs 8 speed Deore and standard on the 2.0.
The 1.0 also has a better front fork, handle bar, dual piston brakes, better wheel rims, improved gear shifters and a better crankset.
 
I've done a few headsets in my time, for some reason my riding style on BMX and MTB seems to kill them........ :shrug: ......It can't be because I'm crap at jumping and tend to land on the front wheel first :p

Common sense is the key, for as long as I've known how to pick up a spanner I've been taking things apart :D

Start the cup off straight and the tube will do the rest for you, You'll have to be doing something very wrong to split the head tube on that cro-mo frame.

I made a press once out of a threaded bar, that was more trouble than the effort it took to make it as you really need a guide tube inside the head tube to keep the bar parallel. For that sort of effort it's easier to pay a shop to do it :D


I don't think I'd attempt a headset on a Carbon frame though :cuckoo:
 
For that reason I always go for Chris King Headsets - they're not cheap, but the do last...
 
I even killed a king headset :eek:

So far the FSA orbit extreme is lasting rather well :thumbs: not bad for a unit from the cheaper end of the scale.
 
Jesus... Mind you, my bike's near as dammit 10 years old now - hardly ridden since '99.
I just had to replace the Middleburn RS-2 Cranks as a crack had developed where the crank-arm meets the spider. Went for last year's XTR.
I was saddened to see that almost everything on my bike, which was state of the art back then is so horribly outdated now that I can't even get spares for my Rock-Shox - they don't even make a unit that basic anymore!!!
Next time they need servicing, I'll have to buy new ones and since the frame geometry is older, I may have probs getting the right rake-angle...most sussy forks are longer than the ones I have now...
Might be OK for downhills, but a longer fork would put me too far back when climbing...
Not that that's a problem out here...like a billiard table...
 
Rob

It's not old and out dated, it's old skool retro ;)

What was the travel on your Judy's? 63 or 70 mm ish?

A decent set of xc forks should be ok and not upset the head angle too much.
 
I need to get my summer MTB clothing sorted, though it's going to be waterproofs not shorts i think!
 
Rob

It's not old and out dated, it's old skool retro ;)

What was the travel on your Judy's? 63 or 70 mm ish?

A decent set of xc forks should be ok and not upset the head angle too much.

They were the original Judy XC's in Yellow, so I think they may even have been 60mm.
The ones that superceded these were the blue Judy XCs...
 
Have a look on the Ison distribution website for the Englund total air cartridges.

Not cheap, but I think they still have some that may do your Judys

I fitted a set to a pair of Judy's back in 98/99 when I was racing M2 stumpys

Made a massive difference to weight and feel over the elastomer internals.


they weren't cheap then.......and i have no reason to suspect they'll off load older stock now for buttons.

still cheaper than a new fork though :)
 
I only knew her as Judy, but by crikey was she a smooth ride



:exit:
 
My early days with her, she was a little bouncy still...lots of pre-load needed! She's a bit more sedate now though - age has tempered her wilder attribute...
 
PMSL!

I've got a Muddy Fox Molotov XC with uprated wheels, bar, stem, seat post and saddle. I'm not a huge fan of sprung back ends myself... :whistling:
 
I'll have to buy new ones and since the frame geometry is older, I may have probs getting the right rake-angle...most sussy forks are longer than the ones I have now...
Might be OK for downhills, but a longer fork would put me too far back when climbing...
Not that that's a problem out here...like a billiard table...

I like the Marzocchi forks on older frames as the have 'Lock-Down' rather than 'Lock-Out', meaning the are shorter on the uphills and do not upset the geometry too much.
 
elevationbluedetailyv8.jpg

But in grey/black

Rocky Mountain Elevation, I really like it but it hasn't been used much at all since I started uni.:(

It's a bit worse for wear at the moment and really needs a service before I use it properly.
 
Nice, looks great!

I've been out and about on my bike a lot of late, enjoying it far to much! Had a flat tyre already, and I had to take the bike back to the shop, becuase the guy who built the bike, cross threaded the pedal thread (doh) So I'm getting a new crank, then I can try out my new SPD's!
 
Only just seen this thread.:eek:

I'm multi tasking, watching the Prologue of the Tour de France, and browsing as well. :D

Reading about some of the bikes and equipment here, I'm surprised anyone can afford a camera,:eek: but if you can have both, well done to you. ;)


I have a '99 Marin East Peak. It cost £1000 way back then.

I'm a fair weather cyclist, so have hardly been on my bike recently. :( I haven't got any pics of my bike worth showing, maybe when we both go out again. I love the design of the Marins from around 1999, as they just looked 'right', and they are comfortable to ride as well. That said I had a test ride on a Rift Zone last year and it was like floating in comparison to my current bike. :eek:

Because I haven't been out on my bike much, I think I will have to miss the the Liverpool-Chester-Liverpool bike ride next Sunday. The 1st time in 5 years. :( I admit I only did the whole route once, but it's a great feeling of achievement to get to Chester.

If I can get out on my bike during the week, I'll see how I feel, but I'm thinking 'maybe next year'. ;)
 
I once tested a Rock Lobster way back when...I was doing some work for MBUK til I fell out with Tym Manley over payment problems...

Nice bike as I recall...
 
He's our pride & joy, a tandem we love it, my daughter could reach the pedals late last summer so my wife's lost her navigators seat, had to buy her a racing bike to keep up with us!
Helen-_-Amy-with-tandem.jpg
 
Just about to buy one if these unless you can convince me otherwise??

Y7B92.jpg


Bianchi Camaleonte III Tiagra
 
Go for it :thumbs:

I'm considering getting rid of my current car and replacing it with a road bike for everyday stuff.
 
Sorry for a bit of a hijack, but...

I've got a cheap, heavy, Raleigh mountain bike with crap centre-pull brakes and only 15 gears, that's not had much use. Recently though, it's started to see more use, taking the kids out on forest trails, etc, and I've found myself lusting after some of the nice looking bikes I see when out.

So I'm thinking about getting a semi-decent mountain bike, but am a complete numpty about what's good and what isn't.

I think I want a 'hardtail' (that's the right term isn't it?) because my missus has a full suspension and it feels weird when riding. I'm looking at buying second-hand so I can get more for my money perhaps upto £250? (or will I need a bit more?)

Any advice from the experienced MTBers on brands to go for or avoid, good and dodgy components, that sort of stuff. I'm not going to rush into it, doing a bit of research first, with a view to buying after my hols at the end of August.

thanks

Paul
 
Hi m8

I would suggest looking on the classified sections of some of the bike forums

bikemagic and singletrackworld are a good starting point.

A good hard tail will last years and encourage you to improve your riding technique instead of just rolling over anything in your path on a full bouncer.

I would suggest anything by the major players

specialized
kona
gary fisher
marin
trek

are all big league players who build a decent value package using a mix of their own parts as well as bits built by other marques.

Something like a spesh rockhopper would be more than adequate for starting.

At the end of the summer, the retailers start to get their new ranges in, so the 07 bikes will be sold off
 
I not got a bike, but I do sometimes take photos from road time trial bike events...

timetrail.jpg


Thanks,

Paul
 
Quite like that. Far better than most of the pics I get sent of me from races I do. Not sure I recognise the rider though. Another Lance fan paying ridiculous amounts of money on kit to try and improve rather than working on the most important compent (the legs) perhaps?

I not got a bike, but I do sometimes take photos from road time trial bike events...

timetrail.jpg


Thanks,

Paul
 
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