Anyone here still print?

A guy on another forum said:- his digi shot of the some subject (wooded scenery) was inferior compared to his MF camera using I think Velvia...I can't remember if he was using a light box, but more interesting is how a cibachrome print compares to a digi print.


Cibachromes were always hit and miss. They needed the right transparency to print from. Contrast was always a problem. I;d have thought velvia would be a problem for Cibachriome due to contrast issues.

Nothing compares to viewing a large transparency directly though.
 
but never like it as it was "keyhole surgery" and my wife (or friends) would laugh looking through a loupe deciding on the ones to print.

My point was that with a big enough enlarger such as one which can take a 10x8 negative. The whole film can be put in a negative carrier and printed up to any size you like rather than just a 1:1 contact print.


Steve.
 
My point was that with a big enough enlarger such as one which can take a 10x8 negative. The whole film can be put in a negative carrier and printed up to any size you like rather than just a 1:1 contact print.


Steve.

Ah! your knowledge is superior to mine...I was using a Gnome enlarger for B\W, well it was all I could afford at the time at a wopping basic price of £13.11.2d and would be two weeks wages for many. :eek:
 
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With black and white it really DOES matter. A beautifully made fibre based print is a thing to behold. No digital printing method can even get close.

With colour.. no, it doesn't matter, and digital is actually better if you get it right.

I completely agree that a wet fibre paper B&W print is something to behold and beats the pants off inkjet. I don't agree that a colour inkjet print is always better than a wet colour print. They are often just different, depending on the original negative. For example, if you have a shot taken with Ektar on a sunny day and you want to produce a print with a very high colour saturation, then an inkjet may be the best choice. On the other hand the wet print will result in a much more life-like and 'smoother' image (I can't think of the right word to describe what I mean here...) with more detail, especially when printing large. I've printed a handful of photos on both my inkjet and with RA4 and the results can be surprisingly similar and surprisingly different depending on the negative.

I have an inkjet print in the loft of a sunny day in Burano, featuring the incredibly colourful houses (lots of yellow, red and purple). It's a striking photo, but it looks a touch surreal with the very high saturation. I created the same image for a friend as a wet print and it's very different. Much less saturation and side by side it looked a bit disappointing. But taken on it's own, it looks great, is a lot more natural and certainly has a little more 3D depth. A few frames along on the wall I've got a big RA4 print of a bright blue aircraft. This print looks very saturated, which suggests that Fuji Crystal Archive (or maybe RA4 itself?) has a great blue response. As a test I created an inkjet print of part of this image (to scale), and side by side they look almost identical. The inkjet had a touch more saturation, but it wasn't obvious until I put them side by side. The huge expanse of blue highlighted two advantages of RA4 printing: (1) the wet print is completely smooth, whereas the inkjet had a tiny bit of banding, and (2) after printing an A3 sheet in a single colour, the cyan ink was almost gone and my colour cartridge (with two other half full tanks!) was ready for the bin.
 
I completely agree that a wet fibre paper B&W print is something to behold and beats the pants off inkjet. I don't agree that a colour inkjet print is always better than a wet colour print. They are often just different, depending on the original negative. For example, if you have a shot taken with Ektar on a sunny day and you want to produce a print with a very high colour saturation, then an inkjet may be the best choice. On the other hand the wet print will result in a much more life-like and 'smoother' image (I can't think of the right word to describe what I mean here...) with more detail, especially when printing large. I've printed a handful of photos on both my inkjet and with RA4 and the results can be surprisingly similar and surprisingly different depending on the negative.

I have an inkjet print in the loft of a sunny day in Burano, featuring the incredibly colourful houses (lots of yellow, red and purple). It's a striking photo, but it looks a touch surreal with the very high saturation. I created the same image for a friend as a wet print and it's very different. Much less saturation and side by side it looked a bit disappointing. But taken on it's own, it looks great, is a lot more natural and certainly has a little more 3D depth. A few frames along on the wall I've got a big RA4 print of a bright blue aircraft. This print looks very saturated, which suggests that Fuji Crystal Archive (or maybe RA4 itself?) has a great blue response. As a test I created an inkjet print of part of this image (to scale), and side by side they look almost identical. The inkjet had a touch more saturation, but it wasn't obvious until I put them side by side. The huge expanse of blue highlighted two advantages of RA4 printing: (1) the wet print is completely smooth, whereas the inkjet had a tiny bit of banding, and (2) after printing an A3 sheet in a single colour, the cyan ink was almost gone and my colour cartridge (with two other half full tanks!) was ready for the bin.

I think it depends what you're used to. I'm used to output from a Epson 9900. I reckon it beats RA4 if you know what you're doing. The problem is that producing a great digital print is actually quite a complex process with many stages that can make things work less well than expected... including the actual image taking.
 
I still print b & w using an Omega enlarger and Nova slot processor. I'm fortunate in having a permanent set-up, so can go into the darkroom at a moment's notice. I also occasionally scan and print, but the results tend to look a bit too d*g*t*l for my liking.
 
Just learned how to print colour today:

MKxcpU1.jpg


Don't think I'll be using my V700/7600i unless I absolutely have to, being able to go from the shot to the final print without having to use a computer is such a refreshing workflow!
 
Just learned how to print colour today:

MKxcpU1.jpg


Don't think I'll be using my V700/7600i unless I absolutely have to, being able to go from the shot to the final print without having to use a computer is such a refreshing workflow!

Nice one Lloyd! Great to see someone else doing some 'real' printing :-)
 
Brilliant. I really need to get a dark room sorted. :(
 
Don't think I'll be using my V700/7600i unless I absolutely have to, being able to go from the shot to the final print without having to use a computer is such a refreshing workflow!
Nice one Lloyd! Great to see someone else doing some 'real' printing :)

Ahhh, I need to catch a ride on the completely non-computer workflow train and never get off. What are the differences in printing colour negative compared to black and white in terms of equipment needed? If I have a colour enlarger, do I just need the appropriate chemicals, a way of regulating the temperature of those chemicals, and colour printing paper?
 
Ahhh, I need to catch a ride on the completely non-computer workflow train and never get off. What are the differences in printing colour negative compared to black and white in terms of equipment needed? If I have a colour enlarger, do I just need the appropriate chemicals, a way of regulating the temperature of those chemicals, and colour printing paper?

You've got the idea...it can be very easy once you get a system especially if you take many shots in similar condition as the colour filter settings don't change much esp if you use the same film and paper...also if you use trays for dev and fixing you would have to work in complete darkness.
 
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That's about it - but you do have to process in the dark, so possibly add in a printing tank like the Paterson Orbital Processor or a Jobo thingy.
 
Just learned how to print colour today:

MKxcpU1.jpg


Don't think I'll be using my V700/7600i unless I absolutely have to, being able to go from the shot to the final print without having to use a computer is such a refreshing workflow!

Oh man, that is so cool. :)

I've got a colour enlarger in dad's shed that I used briefly about a year ago. Now it's under a stack of miscellaneous VW van parts, home brew cider equipment and other bits and bobs. Really need to get a move on and get my own house so I can make a darkroom and do some more printing
 
You've got the idea...it can be very easy once you get a system especially if you take many shots in similar condition as the colour filter settings don't change much esp if you use the same film and paper...also if you use trays for dev and fixing you would have to work in complete darkness.

I use a Nova tank. Quick and easy + the chemicals stay fresh for a couple of weeks. You don't have to work in the dark: I use a Jobo maxilux colour safelight. It's fairly dim, but once you get used to it, there's plenty of light to move the paper around.
 
Oh man, that is so cool. :)

I've got a colour enlarger in dad's shed that I used briefly about a year ago. Now it's under a stack of miscellaneous VW van parts, home brew cider equipment and other bits and bobs. Really need to get a move on and get my own house so I can make a darkroom and do some more printing

I really need to move the enlarger...so I have room for home brew equipment! :beer:
 
I'm confused. Didn't they have contact sheets and loupes in your day?

I find it a lot easier and a lot faster to do a contact sheet than to scan a whole roll of negatives, personally. No scanner that I've ever owned has allowed me to scan all of my negatives in one go like I can with a contact sheet.

I miss this option the most when i shoot film.
 
Just to point out everyone that what I describe above is so simple that practically anyone could do it: in red light conditions place orthochromatic scientific sheet film over luminescing blot, close the top (like a book) for 1 minute or so and then put the film into the automatic processor and press go. You get it out the other end in a minute or so so simply repeat with a longer/shorter exposure time if too high/low contrast.
 
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