Any TPers doing Timelapse?

DuncanDisorderly

DuncanDisorderly

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Duncan
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I've spotted an occasional link to an inspirational timelapse elsewhere on the WWW, but haven't seen much discussion on TP about people having a go.
I'm not even sure which section this thread should go!

I was recently had a short break in mid-France way out in the sticks, and my bedroom window had an excellent view North.
My primary goal was star trails, here's the image that resulted.
i-gfdkg5J-M.jpg

This was created using the lots of 30s exposures technique and the Startrails application; it took nearly 400 shots to make this final image. The technique is well described in the Lets Go Streaking article by Dan Newton.

The Startrails application has an option to create a movie from the same images - and this one looked really cool.
No idea how to embed a movie on TP, so you re getting a link.
http://www.wild-landscapes.co.uk/Bl...21766_T4k66m#!i=1940116423&k=BmBVHhF&lb=1&s=A
It's far from perfect, but it inspired me to want to do some proper timelapse.
I had a go at capturing the following sunrise starting about 3am (sunrise about 4:30am).
By now I'd hit two major problems.

The first problem was battery life.
Both sequences had a fresh battery straight out the charger dropped straight into the 5DII and ran till the camera died. This isn't long enough!
I've now got a cheap grip (£23 delivered) which means I can use two batteries.

Second problem was that I've only got a basic cable release, hence I used shutter priority with a 30s exposure leaving ISO and Aperture to take care of themselves.
I found ISO 100 at f22 was reached well before the sun came up resulting in overexposed nastiness. But the movie leading up to that point was WOW!
So I went and bought a cheap shutter timer release (£12 inc postage); was from a UK seller and looks just like the Canon item including the metal plug collar.

I put all these together yesterday evening as I noticed the clouds scudding past my house looked interesting.
I shot 1200 images at 15s intervals filling two 16Gb cards!
And this is where I hit the third problem.
The Startrails movie generation kept crashing with memory problems and while in France I kept having to reduce the input image size and movie size until it worked. It stood no chance at all with 1200 images!

I Googled for a better timelape software solution, and tripped across this ultra cool solution.
http://lrtimelapse.com/
It's a little complex, but well worth persisting with as it is SO powerful. I highly recommend watching the 15min video on the Tutorial page.
It is integrated with Lightroom allowing you to create smooth changes in colour temperature, brightness and to pan the frame. Really really cool!
If you go back to my first timelapse link, notice that it pans gently upwards during the twilight phase of the movie!
So here's last night's timelapse shot from 6:15pm (long before sunset) until 23:23pm long after sunset; I hadn't expected the Moon to appear so dramatically, but I love it!
http://www.wild-landscapes.co.uk/Other/2012/TP/20916586_CKcLtg#!i=1938512002&k=gSTz8hq&lb=1&s=A
Exposure was in aperture priority f5.6, leaving shutter speed and ISO on full automagic.
Next time I'll clean the window first!

That movie is really a test of the kit, but I'm very pleased with the results
It doesn't give a feel for just how flippin dark it was at the end of the movie, but at least I know that I could tweak the settings using the full set of Lightroom sliders to create the atmosphere I want and regenerate the movie.

As I said at the start of this post...
I've not spotted anyone else writing about timelapse on TP.
What are peoples experiences?
What other software tools give good results?
 
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Yeah, I've played with timelapse: sunset. I enjoyed the processing more than the hanging about, but haven't done much. I used my D60 tethered to a laptop running gphoto2 to do the firing at intervals with the pictures stored on the camera. Then put all the frames together with ffmpeg.
 
... I'm still thinking about what makes a good timelapse. Generally I seem to like those that have movement in the camera, like on a rail with something in the foreground for interest.
There's a new device that looks pretty interesting: Syrp Genie.
 
bl0at3r said:
I am also very interested in time lapse dollies
Click to expand...

Did you spot the movement in my first timelapse video?
If you shoot wide and do the movement in PP (using LRTimelapse) then you can achieve a lot!
The only thing you cannot replicate is parallax differences between near and far objects.
But you can achieve a heck of a lot without that.

BethAtTheHug said:
Yeah, I've played with timelapse: sunset. I enjoyed the processing more than the hanging about, but haven't done much. I used my D60 tethered to a laptop running gphoto2 to do the firing at intervals with the pictures stored on the camera. Then put all the frames together with ffmpeg.
Click to expand...

That is an awesome sky!
I'd be well happy with that...

My goal is for my trips back to the Scottish Islands planned for this Autumn and Winter, to take timelapse showing the tide as well as the light.
Some of the winter storm lighting up there is the absolute best!
I haven't quite worked out how to protect my camera in the locations I have in mind though.
And I need some bigger disks - fast :D
 
BethAtTheHug said:
... I'm still thinking about what makes a good timelapse. Generally I seem to like those that have movement in the camera, like on a rail with something in the foreground for interest.
There's a new device that looks pretty interesting: Syrp Genie.
Click to expand...

Just had a look at that - what an amazing bit of kit!
Kickstarter project, so no date on availability.
Estimated RRP is $999; presume that is NZ$ and is over £500. Which makes it kinda hard to justify for shooting the occasional timelapse for pleasure. If I was shooting commercially, it would be a no brainer!
 
Yes, very intrested in night time lapse but I'm still trying to overcome the lens fogging problem. So my captures are 20 minutes max.
 
I have done a couple of quick ones, I also have all the stuff sitting to make a dynamic perception dolly, but just moved house and haven't had a chance to even solder up the controller.. Need to pull my finger out..
 
Pegasus2 said:
Yes, very intrested in night time lapse but I'm still trying to overcome the lens fogging problem. So my captures are 20 minutes max.
Click to expand...

Do you mean you open the shutter for 20mins, wooooooo, you dont want to keep the shutter open that long your sensor will burn out, better to take lots of 30 sec, shots and then merge them
 
Pegasus2 said:
Yes, very intrested in night time lapse but I'm still trying to overcome the lens fogging problem. So my captures are 20 minutes max.
Click to expand...

Do tell us more as I'm not sure what you mean either!

If it is dew you are meaning, then there is no limit; it's all down to the conditions.
My 4 hour French timelapse was in an open window, so I got away with it.
I've got a fisherman's shelter which I'm hoping will provide a little protection from the dew while away from wherever I'm staying.
I've also heard rubber banding a hand warmer to the lens hood works wonders, but I've not tried it.

Dave,
Regards long exposures burning out the sensor; not sure if I've heard of actual cases of it happening. I have read of cameras shutting down because the sensor started to overheat, Google for "Overheating Sony fan mod". I think that's for video rather than start trails, but the problem is the same.
I don't think lots of 30s exposures is significantly better that a single long exposure as the shutter is open for just about the same overall length of time.
Got any references?
 
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DuncanDisorderly said:
Dave,
Regards long exposures burning out the sensor; not sure if I've heard of actual cases of it happening. I have read of cameras shutting down because the sensor started to overheat, Google for "Overheating Sony fan mod". I think that's for video rather than start trails, but the problem is the same.
I don't think lots of 30s exposures is significantly better that a single long exposure as the shutter is open for just about the same overall length of time.
Got any references?
Click to expand...

To be honest I was erring on the cautious side, think most my shutters ever been open is about just 5mins

I hadnt relealised that was your video in the link, looks good for a first go at it :thumbs: could do with a better location, but thats a fab video for the Cloud Appreciation Society
 
Yes, I do mean dew forming on the lens. No amount of acclimatization will work, ever, because it is ambient air temp which effects the formation of dew. The more the lens aclimatises the more likely you are to have dew form if the air is saturated enough. As air temp falls off during the night (ironically faster on clear nights, because the ground cools quickly and cools the air immediatly above it by conduction) its ability to hold water as vapor falls off and so it dumps it as dew all over your nice camera lens element.

I'm thinking of buying or building a heater to fit around the lens but I haven't got around to it.

I would not normally post this work, but I added the frames I cut out to show most of the full lapse. I did get a successful trail picture from these frames, which now resides on a canvas in someone's office. But here is the dew problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsNj2QRkRM4&feature=youtu.be


Also, you can hold your sensor open for over an hour without risk of damage, especialy on a cool evening. Even more so with no light source as powerful as the sun near the lens view.
 
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Just Dave said:
To be honest I was erring on the cautious side, think most my shutters ever been open is about just 5mins

I hadnt relealised that was your video in the link, looks good for a first go at it :thumbs: could do with a better location, but thats a fab video for the Cloud Appreciation Society
Click to expand...

Cheers Dave :thumbs:
You are right, not the best location and is more a test of the gear.
I live in the highest village in Somerset and most of the time the clouds are not very far above us - which is why they move so fast in the timelapse. Normally it's hard to see, but the timelapse really make it look dramatic.

One of the special tricks this location is well known for is the clouds being lit up underneath by the setting sun - it happens here because we often have the only clouds in Somerset. This didn't happen in my timelapse a there was too much cloud.
On rare occasions we get bright orange clouds swirling amongst the tree tops; that's really special. I know just where to head to do a time lapse if I see it happening.
 
Pegasus2 said:
Yes, I do mean dew forming on the lens. No amount of acclimatization will work, ever, because it is ambient air temp which effects the formation of dew. The more the lens aclimatises the more likely you are to have dew form if the air is saturated enough. As air temp falls off during the night (ironically faster on clear nights, because the ground cools quickly and cools the air immediatly above it by conduction) its ability to hold water as vapor falls off and so it dumps it as dew all over your nice camera lens element.

I'm thinking of buying or building a heater to fit around the lens but I haven't got around to it.

I would not normally post this work, but I added the frames I cut out to show most of the full lapse. I did get a successful trail picture from these frames, which now resides on a canvas in someone's office. But here is the dew problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsNj2QRkRM4&feature=youtu.be
Click to expand...


Nicely illustrated - thank you :thumbs:
You are definitely making me think that my indoor gear test wasn't good enough.
It did prove the battery life is now acceptable and the interval timer worked a treat and I can convert that many images into a movie.
But it looks like I still need to do some experimentation outdoors.
 
DuncanDisorderly said:
Nicely illustrated - thank you :thumbs:
You are definitely making me think that my indoor gear test wasn't good enough.
It did prove the battery life is now acceptable and the interval timer worked a treat and I can convert that many images into a movie.
But it looks like I still need to do some experimentation outdoors.
Click to expand...

Cheers

What did you use to control the camera shutter at specific intervals?
 
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Just a thought - would any of the anti-fog sprays keep dew off the lens?
And would there be any risk of damaging the lens coating ?
I'm loathed to use a protective filter as the moon in frame would almost certainly create bad flare, but would be prepared to experiment and will take recommendations...

Here's the sort of thing I was thinking of...
http://dizzybigfish.co.uk/rain-x-water-repellent-and-anti-fog-coating-for-cameras/
 
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DuncanDisorderly said:
Just a thought - would any of the anti-fog sprays keep dew off the lens?
And would there be any risk of damaging the lens coating ?
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Click to expand...

I do not think that is a good idea for the lenses we are talking about, sorry Duncan. You could try it on a cheaper kit lens if you are willing but I know I would not risk one of mine.

Thanks for the remote release info.
 
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Just about to purchase a Konova K5 150 slider with motion control bundle.

My 1st venture into Timelapse but hoping it will reignite my love of the outdoors.

I'm suffering information overload with all the reading up I'm doing but hoping to get out soon to have a few practices of basic TL without all the motion control gubbings.
 
Regarding the rain x, I've used it on my windscreen and while its ok, its not a repellent, it simply makes water bead up and run off, it needs a bit of a push to get it moving too. Fine mists and dew just create a blanket of micro drops.
And its an absolute bstard to clean off
Not sure if these would work as they are designed for condensation
http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=an...3XDOLO0QXN3YCQDA&ved=0CGEQrQQ&biw=320&bih=533
But may be worth a crack
 
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I have parked my car with the exhaust facing the back of the camera, started the engine up every 10 minutes. Worked fine till i fell asleep.....
 
I did this time lapse using a Nikon D5000, think we had about 950 images at the end 30 seconds apart. I used Picasa to knit the images together, wasn't too difficult for a free piece of software

http://youtu.be/fjMh6apv5R0
 
railroadmanuk said:
I did this time lapse using a Nikon D5000, think we had about 950 images at the end 30 seconds apart. I used Picasa to knit the images together, wasn't too difficult for a free piece of software

http://youtu.be/fjMh6apv5R0
Click to expand...

That's a lovely memento of what looks like a fun gathering.

That's given me ideas for some time-lapse for me to go out an try - thanks!
 
How about a 12v hair dryer to keep the condensation at bay? A blast of warm air every 10 minutes should keep the lens dry.

I'm fascinated by time lapse, but I have yet to try it, mainly because I'm lacking inspiration for a subject.

I agree that movement adds a lot to a timelapse film - the Syrp Genie looks as though it's going to be a great product.

Chris
 
Sorry but I've just skimmed over most of this thread so not sure if anyone's mentioned this. I did a wee bit of time lapse and found using canons dpp was better. Plug the camera into a laptop and open it up, you can set the camera to take photos at the time intervals you choose and for the length you decide, plus all the images are stored on the laptop and don't use up any memory card space. Just a thought.
 
Dexy101 said:
Sorry but I've just skimmed over most of this thread so not sure if anyone's mentioned this. I did a wee bit of time lapse and found using canons dpp was better. Plug the camera into a laptop and open it up, you can set the camera to take photos at the time intervals you choose and for the length you decide, plus all the images are stored on the laptop and don't use up any memory card space. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of that.
Memory cards are not really a problem, even taking in raw - battery is a bigger problem.
But it does neatly solve the need to buy an intervalometer!
 
Did my timelapse attempt today. Only a mini one to get used to the remote timer. I got the one in Duncan's post.

It works well and is very simple to operate. There's several different modes: self-timer, auto-timer and long exposure.

I used the auto-timer. The lessons learnt: 3 minute intervals between frames are too big a gap. Also when putting the rain cover on, I moved the zoom on the lens so the last 5 frames are a different focal length to the first 20 :lol:

I did remember to take my kindle though and comfy fishing chair so it was very pleasant

I'm hoping that we have another cloudy day this week so I can go along to the windmill in the next village and have a go with that
 
Hi, I am just trying to get into timelapse and did the following,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpncwjfp_74

This was with a Canon 500D in video mode using Magic Lantern and FPS override to 2fps.

Am I on the right track?

Speaking of track, I am working on a slide rail with motor to slowly move the cam during the time lapse shoot.
 
Looks good to me :)
I must have a look at ML.

There are two sorts of movement:
1) Distance movement which you need your slide rail (or similar) to create parallax and is kinda the holy grail of timelapse.
2) Panning, which is much easier as it can be done in PP! If you use Lightroom, it's really easy - go to http://lrtimelapse.com/ and watch the 15min video on the Tutorial page.
 
I've got about a meter of movement on what is a VERY solid rail. All I need is to add the proper geared motor and mount the rail to some kind of stand.
The slide weighs about as much as me so it should be stable.
Does 1m sound like enough? It seemed short to me but it's hard to make a decent rail long.
 
I'm looking at getting into this. I've just purchased a Konova K2 Slider, the 80cm one, which I plan to use for a few video projects I have planned. They also sell two types of motor for motion control, the basic one (which doesn't have an intervalometer built in, meaning longer exposure time lapses aren't possible I don't think) and the smart motion controller which does have one built in. I'm just trying to work out if with the basic one you can use your own intervalometer as I already have one, so I'm thinking it could control the stop, shoot, start action.

Does anyone have experience with this?

This is the kind of thing I'd like to shoot:

https://vimeo.com/30788720
 
Pyrofer said:
Hi, I am just trying to get into timelapse and did the following,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpncwjfp_74

This was with a Canon 500D in video mode using Magic Lantern and FPS override to 2fps.

Am I on the right track?

Speaking of track, I am working on a slide rail with motor to slowly move the cam during the time lapse shoot.
Click to expand...

Fab love it well done :clap:
 
Looking at all the talk of dew/condensation leads me to think I am reading an astronomy forum not a camera one! :naughty:

Those astro guys have been battling against this problem for years!

Just Googled dew heater and on the very first page stumbled over this;

http://www.telescopehouse.com/acatalog/Telescope_House_Dew_Removal.htm

Not sure if one of the tape heaters powered by a cigarette lighter adaptor if near a vehicle or via one of those jump-start power packs might do the tick?

A lens hood should help also...the dew shield I have for my Meade 'scope is really just a gigantic lens hood.

Regards
-=Glyn=-
 
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