Agfa infrared 400s

[Asha]

Picked a 35mm roll of this film ( agfa infrared 400s) up recently just to have a play although I know very little about how to go about obtaining decent results.

The only homework i did prior to purchase was to ensure it will dev in the chems that i have to hand ie: Rodinal.

Any pointers on best way to shoot with it and what pitfalls to be aware of will be appreciated from those of you in the know

 

[Nikon_Nick]

Im not sure if this is correct (as ive never shot with infrared film), but im pretty sure I heard somewhere once that you would also need to use an infrared filter...

 

[wickerman]

There's some useful info here http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/rollei_infrared.php

 

[Asha]

Im not sure if this is correct (as ive never shot with infrared film), but im pretty sure I heard somewhere once that you would also need to use an infrared filter...

Aha, I did wonder about that ...if necessary ( which it appears to be), then they look to be available fairly cheap.

There's some useful info here http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/rollei_infrared.php

Thanks for the link David ..;some valuable info there

 

[AJQS]

If it's Rollei infrared rebranded then it's a cracking film.


Pentax LX, SMC-M 50mm f1.4 + 720nm Neewer filter

 

[s162216]

If it's Rollei infrared rebranded then it's a cracking film.

Other way around, its made by Agfa-Geveant in Belgium (the aero film division of Agfa that they spun off before collapsing), and then rebranded as Rollei.

 

[steveo_mcg]

I've quite fancied this in the past but I suspect at this time of year it would come out blank.

 

[Asha]

I've quite fancied this in the past but I suspect at this time of year it would come out blank.

I would presume there is sufficient IR light all year round is there not:shrug:

Mindst you, Bonnie as she might be , Scotty land may be so dark and dismal that perhaps you have a valid point

 

[Toxic]

Back in the day I used to shoot IR very often (10 plus rolls a month) mainly Kodak HIE or Konica IR and used both Hoya R72 and R25A red filters with excellent results both in studio and outdoors shooting nudes in landscapes....

Used to dev in D76 as I remember and print on FB multigrade or Galerie after doing a 10x8 test...... alas I sold all my negs to a German collector many moons ago, oh how I wish I had scanned them!

Bracket exposures is the way to go either side of the filter factor you are using..... Get out and have a play!

 

[Asha]

Back in the day I used to shoot IR very often (10 plus rolls a month) mainly Kodak HIE or Konica IR and used both Hoya R72 and R25A red filters with excellent results both in studio and outdoors shooting nudes in landscapes....

Used to dev in D76 as I remember and print on FB multigrade or Galerie after doing a 10x8 test...... alas I sold all my negs to a German collector many moons ago, oh how I wish I had scanned them!

Bracket exposures is the way to go either side of the filter factor you are using..... Get out and have a play!

Thanks for the exposure advice

 

[AJQS]

Thanks for the exposure advice

Easier still if you have access to an OTF measuring camera like OM2 or Pentax LX. As I recall I set it to 200, and bracketed +1 and +2 with 720nm filter. Developed mine in Caffenol. Loading into the spiral can be problematic. There is a black anti halation coating added which soaks up the moisture in your fingers and forms a lovely black glue which doesn't come off your skin easily or slide well in the spiral. Worth presoaking the film and changing the water a couple of times before sticking the dev in.

 

[Asha]

Easier still if you have access to an OTF measuring camera like OM2 or Pentax LX. As I recall I set it to 200, and bracketed +1 and +2 with 720nm filter. Developed mine in Caffenol. Loading into the spiral can be problematic. There is a black anti halation coating added which soaks up the moisture in your fingers and forms a lovely black glue which doesn't come off your skin easily or slide well in the spiral. Worth presoaking the film and changing the water a couple of times before sticking the dev in.

Yes I have an OM-10 which meteres OTF so no problem there.

Going to get a suitable filter ordered this week.

Interesting to learn about the anti halation coating, I'll ensure I'm in a cool, calm mood before attempting the spiral then.....I tend to presoak fim before adding developer anyway but without doubt this IR will be getting bathed

 

[wickerman]

Yes I have an OM-10 which meteres OTF so no problem there.

Going to get a suitable filter ordered this week.

Interesting to learn about the anti halation coating, I'll ensure I'm in a cool, calm mood before attempting the spiral then.....I tend to presoak fim before adding developer anyway but without doubt this IR will be getting bathed

A 5 min presoak seem to be the norm as per the MDC.

 

[s162216]

Yes I have an OM-10 which meteres OTF so no problem there.

Going to get a suitable filter ordered this week.

Interesting to learn about the anti halation coating, I'll ensure I'm in a cool, calm mood before attempting the spiral then.....I tend to presoak fim before adding developer anyway but without doubt this IR will be getting bathed

If your going to shoot IR, the deep red filter normally confuses the meter so its best to meter and focus (as the viewfinder will be nearly black) with the filter off, add on 4 or 5 stops (for a 720nm filter), then add the filter and adjust the focus for the IR focal point (usually a little red mark on the focus scale, but it matters less with wider lenses, just move it over where the normal focus point is) and then take the picture. Its likely that your going to get some long exposures so its probably recommended to use a tripod, and to bracket either side as IR light is quite fiddly (as its actually reflected IR light your photographing and the metering is based on visual spectrum light so there is a good degree of variation).