Advice please

NavyDave

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Dave
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Hello all

I am about to start a HND in photography but I have been given an assignment to do to hand in at the interview stage (next Thursday)..

Here is the assignment. (with my answers(

Task One - HOW DO I GO ABOUT DOING THIS?

Select a historical or contemporary photographic image and briefly discuss the photographer, composition, lighting, style, post-production and image context.

Task Two

In your own words, answer the five questions below as accurately and succinctly as possible.

1. On a lens with an aperture range of f2.8 to f22, which f-stop would achieve the maximum depth of field?

F2.8 is the bigger aperture, because the small the f/-stop the the bigger the aperture.


2. What exposure time is two stops longer than 1/30th of a second?

1/125th

3. Without using high-speed sync, what is the fastest exposure most modern DSLR cameras will sync with flash, 1/30th, 1/125th or 1/500th of a second?

1/125th of a second

4. List three reasons why shooting in RAW format is preferable to Jpeg.

1. RAW records greater levels of brightness (records up to 16,000 whereas jpeg records up to 256)
2. You get better tones and colours on prints from RAW images than jpeg
3. A RAW image is easier to work with than a jpeg image.


5. Why should your DSLR’s colour space be set to Adobe RGB (1998) rather than sRGB?

The default (sRGB) colour space isn’t very good, wheras as Adobe RGB (1998) produces a wider gamut of colours.

Can someone tell me if I have got task two correct please?

Thank you everyone:thumbs:
 
You got a few wrong in task two, you need to go back and review the answers.

I won't tell you as that would be spoiling your fun.

1 and 2 are wrong and 4 is questionable. I know nothing about flash or printing so can't say whether 3 or 5 are correct or not. I hope they are otherwise you haven't done too well!
 
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Oops.. must learn to read..

GOOD LUCK! :)
 
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q1 would it be as high as f22 or would f8 be sufficient?

q2 1/8th?

How is q4 questionable?

thank you
 
ammended to the following.. hopefully they are right???

1. F22
2. No Idea
3. 1/125th of a second
4.1 RAW records greater levels of brightness (records up to 16,000 whereas jpeg records up to 256)
4.2 You get better tones and colours on prints from RAW images than jpeg
4.3 RAW produces a sharper image and is easier to edit than jpeg

5. The default (sRGB) colour space is limited, whereas as Adobe RGB (1998) produces a wider gamut of colours.
 
task one = choose a famous photographer ( David Bailey isnt a bad place to start ), do as much research as you can on this photographer and you will find the more famous they are the more that will be written about them including their style, composition and lighting etc.
 
5. Why should your DSLR’s colour space be set to Adobe RGB (1998) rather than sRGB?

The default (sRGB) colour space isn’t very good, wheras as Adobe RGB (1998) produces a wider gamut of colours.
QUOTE]

There are plenty of folk will tell you this is nothing short of a myth.

It maybe a myth Lyonspride but that isnt an acceptable answer mate lol. I feel the same with RAW - V JPEG I alsway shoot jpeg
 
task one = choose a famous photographer ( David Bailey isnt a bad place to start ), do as much research as you can on this photographer and you will find the more famous they are the more that will be written about them including their style, composition and lighting etc.

Thanks (again) Djinn
 
I really dont understand q2

Longer exposure means the shutter spends more time open. So 1/125th is a shorter exposure than 1/30th. We talk of 'stops' to mean an alteration between settings. So the difference between 1/30th and 1/15th is one stop.

It maybe a myth Lyonspride but that isnt an acceptable answer mate lol. I feel the same with RAW - V JPEG I alsway shoot jpeg

If the question is asserting as fact that RGB is definitively better than sRGB, always and forever, in any circumstances, then whoever set the paper needs a good talking to. If you learn one thing from your course, it should be that there is no 'correct' way of doing photography.

I always use sRGB
 
Longer exposure means the shutter spends more time open. So 1/125th is a shorter exposure than 1/30th. We talk of 'stops' to mean an alteration between settings. So the difference between 1/30th and 1/15th is one stop.

If the question is asserting as fact that RGB is definitively better than sRGB, always and forever, in any circumstances, then whoever set the paper needs a good talking to. If you learn one thing from your course, it should be that there is no 'correct' way of doing photography.

I always use sRGB

Thank you Jon, so the answer would be 1/8th?:thinking:
 
Longer exposure means the shutter spends more time open. So 1/125th is a shorter exposure than 1/30th. We talk of 'stops' to mean an alteration between settings. So the difference between 1/30th and 1/15th is one stop.



Thank you Jon, so the answer would be 1/8th?:thinking:

Yup, you've got it!*

Nomenclature can take a bit of getting used to, but it will make sense in the end - promise!



Does that mean I have an HND? :)
 
It means you have answered one question of 5 for one task, I have 2 tasks to go, and this is all for an interview to get on the course in the first place.:bang::bang::shrug:

May be best to stick to driving a boat, then? Probably less complicated. (I'm assuming here that 'navy' isn't a reference to your colour, though I'm happy to be corrected on this). :D
 
It maybe a myth Lyonspride but that isnt an acceptable answer mate lol. I feel the same with RAW - V JPEG I alsway shoot jpeg


Yeah sorry :(

I did a HND+HNC in electronics, we had a lecturer that believed his way was always right and it was 40 years before hand, when parallel data was faster than serial data and analogue audio was much cleaner than digital audio, but things change......
He spent his entire time showing off what he thought he knew and zero time teaching any of it. We all had to agree with his dated views/knowledge just to scrape through.

So as a result I have a slightly tainted view on academics and your example bought back memories from 10+ years ago :(
 
Don't give up your day job, mate!

It's not enough to just give the answers... you have to understand them. Make sure you read up on why these are the correct answers, after all, they don't just give out places on the course based on what you hand in.
Good luck with your interview.
It's quite a step to change direction with your life/future. (Been there, done that!)
One thing is obvious from your posts- your spelling and grammar are up to scratch.
It makes a difference :)

Ken
 
Not meaning to sound like I'm talking down but your answer to question 1 doesn't attempt to answer the question asked, you're answering something similar/related but not actually what was asked.

At Uni we had one lecturer who would regularly give guidance on how to do well in exams, and it was about answering technique not knowledge.

1. Read the question and start to think of what your answer may be.
2. Read the question a second time to ensure you understand what is being asked. Look for key words (in this case maximum and depth of field) and ensure you use the same words in your answer. You fail to do so, you refer to aperture.
3. When you answer give a statement of the point you wish to make, and why it is relevant


Mike would guarantee that every year most students would lose 10-15% by answering what they wanted the question to be, not what it actually was.
 
Hello all

1. On a lens with an aperture range of f2.8 to f22, which f-stop would achieve the maximum depth of field?

f22 would offer the maximum depth of field.
The f number is the focal length divided by the physical size of the aperture. So a lens set to 50mm with an aperture 25mm across would be the same as 50mm at f2. (50mm/25mm = f2).

2. What exposure time is two stops longer than 1/30th of a second?

Not the answer but:
To increase an exposure by one stop you need twice the ammount of light. To increase by 2 stops you need 4 times as much light. (You double it for each stop you increase so Double it then double it again.)
This can be done by increasing the time the shutter is open, increasing the aperture (lower f number), or using a higher iso setting so the camera is more sensitive to light. Or a combination of the above.
To reduce the exposure by 1 stop, half the light is needed. (Half it again for each stop you want to decrease it by.)

3. Without using high-speed sync, what is the fastest exposure most modern DSLR cameras will sync with flash, 1/30th, 1/125th or 1/500th of a second?

1/125th of a second

My Canon 500D syncs at 1/200 on camera although I reliably get 1/250 off camera with manual settings.
1/125 sounds a bit slow but of the 3 choices it's the one I'd go for.

4. List three reasons why shooting in RAW format is preferable to Jpeg.


1. RAW records greater levels of brightness (records up to 16,000 whereas jpeg records up to 256)
per colour/channel. BUT, be careful quoting numbers, different cameras have different specs and can record different levels of information.
2. You get better tones and colours on prints from RAW images than jpeg.
Not really. The increased detail (point 1) gives greater editing potential to create a good image, or save a bad one :) , especially recovering blown highlights/shadows, but I doubt anyone could tell the difference between a direct prints from a raw or jpeg. Once a raw file has been edited it is usually exported as (saved to) a jpeg for printing.
3. A RAW image is easier to work with than a jpeg image.

I wouldn't say it is, other than having more detail to work with. See point 1 & 2.

Also consider:
*Jpegs are a lossy format, detail is discarded in the original file.
*Raw files are not edited directly so can be edited/saved as often as you like without degrading, a jpeg (lossy format) will degrade each time it's edited and saved.
*Jpegs the camera chooses how to apply basic processing, (White balance/sharpening etc.) which is destructive to the image. Raw you can do it all yourself, without degrading the image.

*If you keep the raw file and only release jpegs you can prove more easily the shot is yours for copyright arguments. (Doubt this would be accepted though.)
A quick google will give you many more.

5. Why should your DSLR’s colour space be set to Adobe RGB (1998) rather than sRGB?

Because you were learning all the different settings on your camera and will soon be changing it back to sRGB :)
The default (sRGB) colour space isn’t very good, Wrong wheras as Adobe RGB (1998) produces a wider gamut of colours.
Wrong but for the right reason. It does have a wider range of colours BUT It requires software that will handle it and a monitor that can display it, standard monitors don't. You'll also need a very high end printer or print company that accepts, and is expecting, the Adobe RGB file. You'll need to save as sRGB anyway if posting to the web as the colours will look wrong otherwise. See: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/adobe-rgb.htm
In short, unless you know exactly why, have the equipment to handle it and are in full controll of you workflow from camera to print: Don't do it :)
 
There are plenty of folk will tell you this is nothing short of a myth.


It's not a myth, Adobe RGB does indeed produce a wider gamut of colours.... some people question it's worth is all. If you have no devices or printers capable of displaying it... then you shouldn't be using it.

If you don't understand any of this.. then you shouldn't be using it.

If you have devices capable of displaying the wider gamut, and a printer capable of printing it, the you should... once you've learned all about colour management. If you can't be bothered learning all that, then stick to sRGB.
 
Anything I don't understand is a myth. That ensures that I am always in a position where I know about everything that is true/real :)
 
It's not a myth, Adobe RGB does indeed produce a wider gamut of colours.... some people question it's worth is all. If you have no devices or printers capable of displaying it... then you shouldn't be using it.

If you don't understand any of this.. then you shouldn't be using it.

If you have devices capable of displaying the wider gamut, and a printer capable of printing it, the you should... once you've learned all about colour management. If you can't be bothered learning all that, then stick to sRGB.

Or, having learned about the various colour spaces, you may make an informed decision that sRGB is the best choice in many circumstances, and will also have learned that to state that RGB is, per se, better, is incorrect.
 
If you really had an interest in photography, you would of researched the questions and understood your own answers.
Trying to achieve a hnd in a subject you blatantly know nothing about is a disaster waiting to happen.
 
ammended to the following.. hopefully they are right???

1. F22
2. No Idea
3. 1/125th of a second
4.1 RAW records greater levels of brightness (records up to 16,000 whereas jpeg records up to 256)
4.2 You get better tones and colours on prints from RAW images than jpeg
4.3 RAW produces a sharper image and is easier to edit than jpeg

5. The default (sRGB) colour space is limited, whereas as Adobe RGB (1998) produces a wider gamut of colours.

Question 3 is wrong as well I can only speak for Canon DSLR and they are possibly one of the the biggest retailers out there, And most of there DSLR cameras will flash sync up to 1/200th without going into HSS, My 60D will sync to 1/250th before i need to set HSS
 
Anything I don't understand is a myth. That ensures that I am always in a position where I know about everything that is true/real :)

haha...can i use this for my new philosophy too. :)
 
If you really had an interest in photography, you would of researched the questions and understood your own answers.
Trying to achieve a hnd in a subject you blatantly know nothing about is a disaster waiting to happen.

Took until post #29 before this happened. That's slower than I'd expected. :lol:

Define 'research' for us, would you? And what term would you use to describe the action of eliciting information from an informed source? :bang:
 
If you really had an interest in photography, you would of researched the questions and understood your own answers.
Trying to achieve a hnd in a subject you blatantly know nothing about is a disaster waiting to happen.

That's what academics is these days, memorising answers and text books, then forget it all once you pass. It's reason the IT jobs market is flooded with computer science graduates who don't know the different between USB and a parallel port, and would have the first clue on how to reinstall an operating system.

Don't blame the students, blame the system.
 
That's what academics is these days, memorising answers and text books, then forget it all once you pass. It's reason the IT jobs market is flooded with computer science graduates who don't know the different between USB and a parallel port, and would have the first clue on how to reinstall an operating system.

Don't blame the students, blame the system.

To be fair, I have worked in IT for almost 30 years in numerous guises and never have I needed to intall an OS or know anything about ports. (Not saying I don't know, just that I haven't needed to)
 
To be fair, I have worked in IT for almost 30 years in numerous guises and never have I needed to intall an OS or know anything about ports. (Not saying I don't know, just that I haven't needed to)

That's exactly what my friend would have said (IT support at a local school and manages various bits for the local authority), but when they took on a recent comp sci graduate to handle the everyday stuff, he realised just how much he takes the simple things he knows for granted.
 
The student is still a lot to blame in that case though. I am not studying photography and never will do but I know the answers to questions because I am interested in photography.
Anyone interested in IT would know about USB, installing OS' etc,.and not be reliant on a education to teach them the basics. This is the same in any field.
 
The student is still a lot to blame in that case though. I am not studying photography and never will do but I know the answers to questions because I am interested in photography.
Anyone interested in IT would know about USB, installing OS' etc,.and not be reliant on a education to teach them the basics. This is the same in any field.

:plusone::

Higher level education (HNC onwards) relies on you learning most of your subject matter yourself. If you have no interest in it, its going to be very difficult and probably a waste of everyone's time.
 
:plusone::

Higher level education (HNC onwards) relies on you learning most of your subject matter yourself. If you have no interest in it, its going to be very difficult and probably a waste of everyone's time.


...and one of the best ways of learning is a technique called 'asking questions'. And this is a good place for someone beginning photography to ask, no?
 
Hi Dave,

for task 1, I'd maybe have a look at a few famous photographers and pick one you like the style of... here are a few suggestions for some that I've found interesting in one way or another:
Gregory Crewdson, Cindy Sherman, Annie Leibovitz, Ansel Adams, Mario Testino, Julia Margaret Cameron, Anne Geddes, Lewis Hine, Dorothea Lange, David LaChapelle and possibly my favourite Irving Penn.

edited to add - talk about how the images make you feel, and how you think the photographer wanted to make you feel. Perhaps pick a few photos and try and analyse how the image was set up - whether it was lit naturally or by strobes/studio flash, how the positioning of the light created atmosphere (if any), how it was processed - b&w, colour etc and how this effects how you feel about the image...

hope this helps, and good luck with your course :)
 
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