Advice needed: Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 or Tokina 11-20mm f2.8?

Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 or Tokina 11-20mm f2.8?

  • Tokina 11-20mm f2.8

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morpheve

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Eve
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Has anyone experience with either or both of these Tokina lenses? Or should I consider something else? (like Sigma 8-16mm)
I never owned wide lens so I'm unable to tell the difference which one will be better 11-16 or 11-20?
Please let me know your thought! Help.....help....help.

Thanks
Eve
 
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I recently bought the Sigma 8-16. I think the first question though is why do you want to go 'wide'? & How wide do you want or need to go?
The 'Thing' with UWA's is that the extra wide can tend to pack extra 'boring' in the frame, much more easily than extra 'interest'; they can be tricky to exploit and make work for you.
The Tokina 11-16 was on my short-list. Its very well regarded, its very well rated, and its well priced and considered very good VFM.
In my eventual purchase reasoning, I passed it over simply because it didn't really go so 'wide', and while it may be a 'better' lens as far as optics and construction, for the amount of use and standards I require, that was of little great concern, and spending so much on a lens anyway, so was any 'saving'.
The 11-20 didn't really figure in my buy decision; the extra at the tight end is in the over-lap with kit, so of marginal advantage, while I am suspicious that that extra zoom-range is at expense of compromise else-where, and with that lens priced so close to the 11-16, that is so highly regarded, probably not such a great lens or such good VFM.. but merely my suspicion & gut reaction.
My ultimate choice came down to the Sigma 10-20 f4.5 or the 8-16
By my reasoning, the 10-20 was the best value for money, and the cheaper option, and probably the more usable; the 8-16 was the more expensive and probably less usable, but in-for-a-penny-in for a quid; it went all the way, and goes as wide as you can go.
Yet to get any significant opportunity to play with it, but, so far I'm comfy with my buy..My main concern was getting whole motorbikes in the frame, when parked in tight restrictive spaces at shows and meets and the like, and you have to get up close and personal to get a shot; for that, the added 'wide' of the 8-16 is a little questionable, from few test snaps I've tried on my own bike, (the bike season not yet started really) at the extreme 8mm end, shots were a tad 'wobbly' with distortion; not as bad as with my fish, but of that ilk, and I was getting as much in the frame at 10mm and only a few inches further back, with less skewing, implying . I think I would have been more than happy with the 10-20, and had cash to buy a 35/1.8 prime into the bargain (I just nick the one I bought my daughter atm!) The Tokina, I think I would have appreciated, but regretted it didn't go wider, but I also suspect that limitation would mean I got more better shots, and spent less time zooming in and out, and canning around the frame, looking for distracting details, and just got on with the job!
Which takes us BTT and why you want to go wide and how wide do you think you need go? And as ever, how deep are your pockets!
 
I can't speak for the other two lenses but I had the 11-16 Tokina and found it produced good quality, sharp shots. I only sold it on as I went full frame, but did occasionally use it on a 1 D mklll down to about 13 mm. A standard polariser generally won't be effective on it, but that's probably the same for the others.
 
I too am considering buying either the Tokina 11-16 or 11-20. I've seen a friends results from the 11-16mm, and if Tokina hadn't brought out the 11-20 I would have bought the shorter range zoom.

My only concern is it's harder to maintain quality as the zoom range increases and I haven't seen a 'proper' review of the 11-20. I'd find it's increased focal length quite useful, less lens swapping.

Is anyone reading this using the Tokina 11-20mm, how do they find the corner definition at 2.8 and 5.6 at 11 and 20mm?

Am I right thinking the Sigma 8-16 won't take a filter due to the curvature of its front element. If so that would put me off.
 
Not quite the point you are asking, but I have the 11-16 but often wish it had a bit more zoom i.e. a little more than 5mm variation. I'd definitely look into the 11-20mm although personally I never owned one. I do have other DX options too like a 10.5mm Nikkor, Sigma 12-24 (FX or DX bit slow but great) but when you only want to carry 1 or 2 lenses it's great if one does it all. That's where I notice sometimes when you bolt on the 11-16 there is not much adjustment when you are trying to get that final image in camera. Having said that, if you line up right in the first place! :-) The 11-16 has reasonable size filter thread 77 I think (82 I think on the 11-20) and it is pin sharp. It's a relatively big lens anyway for DX, I believe the 11-20 will be bigger and heavier.
 
Am I right thinking the Sigma 8-16 won't take a filter due to the curvature of its front element. If so that would put me off.
Sort of.
The hood is integral with the lens body, so there's no filter ring.
It takes a two-piece push-on lens cap; a 72mm 'pinch' on a push on ring with 72mm filter thread, so you 'might' at severe risk of large amounts of vignetting, use a filter.
It was a consideration when I was choosing it, 'but'... while a CPL sits almost permanently attached to the kit-zoom & telephoto for 'out-door' situations, on a UWA you have such a huge field of view, 10mm on a crop gives 'about' 100deg on the wide side, its about 115 or so @ 8mm, IF you tried using a polariser, you'd start getting fade and banding effects from the polarising effect changing across the frame with the change in incident angle of light passing through it, making it slightly less helpful.
Grabbing such a large area of scene, a grad might be more useful to even exposure where you are likely to get a large exposure range between high-light and shadow.. but, 'problem' is most likely to arise if you think you want a UWA to pack more land into landscapes, which is something they can rather under-whelm in. Cramming more land into a land-cape often makes them more boring rather than more interesting; strength of these lenses is perversely to 'open up' small spaces and give them depth, rather than cram bigger space into a small frame. Working then to the lenses strengths then, contrast control shouldn't be such an issue, and grads not the only, or even necessarily the best way to deal with it, so 'shouldn't (he says hopefuly!) be too big an issue. Certainly for my main application shooting close up and often in-doors or tents.
Most other filter 'effects' can be added in post.
 
Naturally an old thread, but having a new passion for astrophotography I was after a new lens.
I'd had some reasonable results on first attempt, but didn't obtain what I wanted with my trusty Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5,

After much research, it came down to the 11-16mm or 11-20mm, but in the end I have ordered the 11-20mm

Chiefly because for the daylight landscape shots, lens flare seems improved, while the extra 4mm seemed worth it for under £50 more.

Sadly I was unable to try one out first, so I am nervous of the soft edges, but we will see...
 
Naturally an old thread, but having a new passion for astrophotography I was after a new lens.... in the end I have ordered the 11-20mm.
Do please report back when you have some results. It's always interesting to know which lenses are good for astro work and you can't necessarily tell from the specifications.
 
I'm in exactly the same situation and almost pushed the button last night on the 11-20 based on the reviews I had read. But more information would always be good.
 
I'm in exactly the same situation and almost pushed the button last night on the 11-20 based on the reviews I had read. But more information would always be good.
Mine is due with me Friday then it will be away with me with work to France, Switzerland and Germany.
Hopefully the weather will be kind and I can experiment, but I will indeed give my thoughts.
 
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