ACTION SHOTS

slumacher

Suspended / Banned
Messages
28
Name
darren
Edit My Images
Yes
Ok so im really new to photography and really want to try action shots e.g motorsport my question is whats the best way to shoot this? i have a nikon d90 and was advised that it would be best to shoot in shutter priority which to be honest kind of makes sense to me although i have also been advised to shoot aperture priority! and now im a bit confused

Can anyone explain these two to me and if possible show me what difference each could make :help:
 
Action implies stopping motion. Which of the two modes do you think is designed primarilly to control the stopping and bluring of motion....

You can do it through AV, but you'd have to hope the camera was getting enough light to be able to have the shutter high enough.

If you set the shutter speed yourself, then you know unless the light is awfull and the widest aperture cant give enough you will get the shot.
 
test shoot when u get there, if theres enough light to get your shutter up high you can shoot SP if there isn't i prefer to shoot AP and adjust my ISO to get the shutter speed up. that way i know if i have my aperture wide open in ap i can adjust the iso to increase the shutter speed
 
Shutter speed will also depend on whether you want a staic looking image or blurred background and wheels to emphasise speed in which case a shutter speed of say 1/200 or even less.
 
I would shoot manual, for two reasons. Firstly, you need to control the shutter speed, and secondly, because you will probably be panning and tracking different cars a lot of the time, you need to lock the exposure.

If you use any of the auto modes, when you're shooting a white car and then a red car and then a black one, then your exposure will vary when it shouldn't. Likewise, when you're panning, the background will change and as it moves from grass to shade to perhaps a bit of sky, then your exposure will change as well. And unless the light actually falling on the subject has changed, the exposure should obviously remained fixed.

Only use an auto mode when the sunlight is changing more than the subject, ie when it's cloudy and windy.

For metering, the pro's choice is usually spot. Take a reading off the grass, or some other large area of medium tone that you can go back to and reference any time. Grass is usually favourite because it's close to mid-grey and there's plenty of it about. Set the exposure, chimp it and check and modify as necessary, note the variance of the viewfinder needle from zero, ie say +0.3. This is now your reference.

If the light changes, you can go back to that reference tone at any time and so long as you re-adjust everything to reset it at +0.3, then you'll always have correct and consistently identical exposure. When you see professionals pointing their long lenses at the grass or tarmac for no apparent reason, that's what they're doing.
 
Last edited:
Excellent advice Hoppy, Ill definitely be trying this.
 
Shutter speed will also depend on whether you want a staic looking image or blurred background and wheels to emphasise speed in which case a shutter speed of say 1/200 or even less.

This is the sort of image i was after will give it a try and thank you all for your advice and quick response :thumbs:
 
I would shoot manual, for two reasons. Firstly, you need to control the shutter speed, and secondly, because you will probably be panning and tracking different cars a lot of the time, you need to lock the exposure.

If you use any of the auto modes, when you're shooting a white car and then a red car and then a black one, then your exposure will vary when it shouldn't. Likewise, when you're panning, the background will change and as it moves from grass to shade to perhaps a bit of sky, then your exposure will change as well. And unless the light actually falling on the subject has changed, the exposure should obviously remained fixed.

Only use an auto mode when the sunlight is changing more than the subject, ie when it's cloudy and windy.

For metering, the pro's choice is usually spot. Take a reading off the grass, or some other large area of medium tone that you can go back to and reference any time. Grass is usually favourite because it's close to mid-grey and there's plenty of it about. Set the exposure, chimp it and check and modify as necessary, note the variance of the viewfinder needle from zero, ie say +0.3. This is now your reference.

If the light changes, you can go back to that reference tone at any time and so long as you re-adjust everything to reset it at +0.3, then you'll always have correct and consistently identical exposure. When you see professionals pointing their long lenses at the grass or tarmac for no apparent reason, that's what they're doing.

Very clear and useful description; many thanks!.............but what does 'chimp it' mean, please? I don't see it listed in the abbreviations thread.

Sorry for a newbie question, but I'm still playing catch up!


Thanks, Ernie.
 
Ahhhhh........Take a test shot and examine. Thanks.


Ernie
 
Back
Top