Hey people.
I thought it would be a good idea to write a small guide to C41 processing for us that have an interest in film photography. I will touch on C41 and 120 film only as this is what I have the most experience with.
C41 film is being used by quite a lot of professional photographers even today. Modern emulsions such as Portra deliver great results with amazing tonality and colour fidelity, and is very forgiving in terms of exposure. I want to go through how it is possible to photograph, develop and scan your own film at home, independent of labs and external services.
Does it make any sense to shoot film today? That depends on the application, of course, but here are my reasons: medium format film delivers superb results and is easily printed to A1 with a good scan, and for much less money than say a D800E with good glass. There's also that tonality that just sets it apart from digital and makes for a much more pleasing photograph in my eyes. I shoot 99% colour and I also much prefer film with regards to colour. Then there's how I work when shooting film. As you can't check the screen after every picture, I find myself working harder and being more conscious with what I shoot. The results are largely more successful images, mainly because of the preparation and previsualisation that goes into it. I also love an affordable rangefinder.
Cameras
Well, there are a lot to choose between. SLRs, TLRs, rangefinders, folders. Prices vary, but a good camera needn't cost much. One of the cheapest options is a Yashica Mat 124, a great 6x6 TLR, which can be had for less than £200. More expensive TLRs are Rolleiflexes. Among SLRs there are Bronicas, Hasselblads, Mamiya RB/RZ and so on, all quite cheap options. The rangefinders are the most expensive film medium format cameras, with Mamiya 7II and Fuji GF670/Bessa III costing upwards of £900 used. Cheaper rangefinders include the older Texas Leicas, Fuji GW690 (which also exists, although much less commonly, as a 6x7 and a 6x8) and the Mamiya 6. There are also older folders that still work great whilst being very cheap, examples include Zeiss Super Ikonta, which has a coupled rangefinder. Which one suits you depends on your needs and tastes, but no matter which one you decide to get, make sure everything is working properly!
Hasselblad system
-
Fuji GF670 rangefinder folding action
C41 film
When it comes to colour negative film there are not a lot of options anymore. Kodak have their Portra which is arguably the best film currently available. It's available in two speeds: 160 and 400. Ektar 100 is also a good film if you prefer more saturated films. Fujifilm is still making 160S and 400H, which are good films, but not as modern and foolproof as Kodak's options.
Developing and chemistry
Very quick and incomprehensible in Vine-format.
Developing films at professional labs all the time quickly gets expensive. Therefore, it is my opinion that it's best done yourself, if you have the time to do it and learn it, of course. If you've ever developed black and white film, the step up to C41 is not as difficult as you may have been led to believe.
As with any film, you need a completely dark room or a changing bag to transfer the film from the rolls and over to the spirals in the tank. If you've not done this before, I recommend you sacrifice a roll to practise with until you get the hang of it. It can be frustrating, but with practise it gets easy.
To efficiently develop your C41, it is my opinion that a Jobo processor is necessary. It is possible to do it without, but it's a lot messier and takes more time, so I wouldn't recommend it. The Jobo does the most important things for you - it keeps the temperature right, and it constantly agitates your tank - both requirements for a successful process.
Jobo processors turn up on the auction site quite often, so getting ahold of one isn't too difficult. They cost between £150-300 usually, depending on the model (CPE-2 without or with lift respectively). The model with the lift makes it a lot easier to change and get rid of chemistry.
My Jobo.
Temperature is the most critical aspect of C41 processing. The correct temperature is 37.8 degrees Celsius, and deviating more than 2 degrees off this mark will have a bad effect on your negatives. Take the temp off your developer before you chuck it in and make sure it's no more than half a degree off. For this you need a precise thermometer. Kaiser makes some good ones. Personally I use a fever thermometer with good results.
The second most important thing is that the tank must be constantly agitated. The Jobo does this for you with the flick of a switch, so this isn't difficult to get right.
I recommend Fuji Hunt C41 for chemistry, because it has separate bleach and fix. Some kits have combined bleach and fix (blix), and although it works, it's not as good for your negs, should ex-Kodak employees be trusted (I trust them). The chemistry can be bought at SilverPrint and costs about £40 for a 5L kit.
It's quite standard to mix up 1L of working solution at a time. Here are the measurements:
You need measurement syringes (10ml ones) to mix developer and stabiliser. I recommend you buy a lot of these, as well as rubber gloves, for use when mixing and processing. C41 chemistry is a bit nasty, so make sure to wear gloves and to have adequate ventilation.
Buy a ton of measurement jugs for mixing, and mark them with what chemistry you're using them for - you don't want to use the same jug for several chems. I'd also write that they mustn't be used for cooking, lest you want to be poisoned. Keep them in a safe place, away from kids. When the chemistry is mixed, either put them in the Jobo bottles to be heated for processing, or store them in separate storage bottles. Ideally, glass bottles are the best, as they don't breathe.
I use accordion bottles, the second best thing.
Fill the storage bottles with Tetenal Protectan to prevent oxidation. Mixed chemistry that is stored well keeps for about 6-8 weeks. Unmixed it keeps for a good while longer. The developer goes bad first. You can tell it's going bad by its colour - it goes tea-coloured first, and then darker until it looks like coffee (at which point it's exhausted).
You can re-use chemistry, but you must compensate with longer development times. Consult the sheet that comes with your chemistry to determine for how much longer.
The process
Here's the process from beginning to end. Got to admit, I don't always change the wash seven times, but it's your safest bet if the negs are important.
Prewash needs to be at 38 degrees to prepare the film for the developer, which you of course have checked is at the right temperature before you pour it in. Remember to put your thermometer down in the actual developer, not the bath of the Jobo, as these are not necessarily the same.
When the process is done, and you've dipped the spirals with the film on in stabiliser (note: don't pour stabiliser in the processor, take the spirals out of the tank and put them in a jug with stabiliser).
After you've let them soak for a bit, hang them up to dry, and wash the spirals with really hot water to get rid of any leftover stabiliser, as this will make your spirals sticky. I usually just use my living room at night. Just make sure to use a space where there isn't any movement, so that dust doesn't get thrown in the air and gets into the emulsion. It takes about 3-4 hours for the negs to dry.
When the negs are good and dry, cut them and put them in PrintFile plastic holders. Then put them in an archival ringbinder box for storage, or scan them right away.
Scanning
When getting a scanner you don't have many options unless you have a big budget. You will probably end up getting a flatbed. Epson makes some excellent flatbeds in their V600, V700 and V750. I have the former, and it's a good scanner that does three frames of 6x7 at one time. The two latter have slightly better resolution and a bigger scanning area which enables you to make contact sheets more easily. These scanners have around 1600-2000 dpi actual resolution, which isn't that bad - A3+ is easily done with this kind of resolution. I recommend getting VueScan or SilverFast for your scanning as the software that comes with the Epsons isn't too good.
If you'd like to print bigger, you can either splurge and get a Coolscan 9000 or a Flextight, or you can send your negs to be drum scanned by a professional operator. With a really good scan, you can easily print A1 from your 120 negative. I heartily recommend you do this as the results are often more stunning than you thought they would be. That's medium format for you. Of course large format is even better but let's save that to some other time.
(TBC)
-
This is bit of a draft, I realise I might have missed out a few important things and I hope you can help me to make the text better by giving me some pointers. Cheers.
Erik
I thought it would be a good idea to write a small guide to C41 processing for us that have an interest in film photography. I will touch on C41 and 120 film only as this is what I have the most experience with.
C41 film is being used by quite a lot of professional photographers even today. Modern emulsions such as Portra deliver great results with amazing tonality and colour fidelity, and is very forgiving in terms of exposure. I want to go through how it is possible to photograph, develop and scan your own film at home, independent of labs and external services.
Does it make any sense to shoot film today? That depends on the application, of course, but here are my reasons: medium format film delivers superb results and is easily printed to A1 with a good scan, and for much less money than say a D800E with good glass. There's also that tonality that just sets it apart from digital and makes for a much more pleasing photograph in my eyes. I shoot 99% colour and I also much prefer film with regards to colour. Then there's how I work when shooting film. As you can't check the screen after every picture, I find myself working harder and being more conscious with what I shoot. The results are largely more successful images, mainly because of the preparation and previsualisation that goes into it. I also love an affordable rangefinder.
Cameras
Well, there are a lot to choose between. SLRs, TLRs, rangefinders, folders. Prices vary, but a good camera needn't cost much. One of the cheapest options is a Yashica Mat 124, a great 6x6 TLR, which can be had for less than £200. More expensive TLRs are Rolleiflexes. Among SLRs there are Bronicas, Hasselblads, Mamiya RB/RZ and so on, all quite cheap options. The rangefinders are the most expensive film medium format cameras, with Mamiya 7II and Fuji GF670/Bessa III costing upwards of £900 used. Cheaper rangefinders include the older Texas Leicas, Fuji GW690 (which also exists, although much less commonly, as a 6x7 and a 6x8) and the Mamiya 6. There are also older folders that still work great whilst being very cheap, examples include Zeiss Super Ikonta, which has a coupled rangefinder. Which one suits you depends on your needs and tastes, but no matter which one you decide to get, make sure everything is working properly!
Hasselblad system
-
Fuji GF670 rangefinder folding action
C41 film
When it comes to colour negative film there are not a lot of options anymore. Kodak have their Portra which is arguably the best film currently available. It's available in two speeds: 160 and 400. Ektar 100 is also a good film if you prefer more saturated films. Fujifilm is still making 160S and 400H, which are good films, but not as modern and foolproof as Kodak's options.
Developing and chemistry
Very quick and incomprehensible in Vine-format.
Developing films at professional labs all the time quickly gets expensive. Therefore, it is my opinion that it's best done yourself, if you have the time to do it and learn it, of course. If you've ever developed black and white film, the step up to C41 is not as difficult as you may have been led to believe.
As with any film, you need a completely dark room or a changing bag to transfer the film from the rolls and over to the spirals in the tank. If you've not done this before, I recommend you sacrifice a roll to practise with until you get the hang of it. It can be frustrating, but with practise it gets easy.
To efficiently develop your C41, it is my opinion that a Jobo processor is necessary. It is possible to do it without, but it's a lot messier and takes more time, so I wouldn't recommend it. The Jobo does the most important things for you - it keeps the temperature right, and it constantly agitates your tank - both requirements for a successful process.
Jobo processors turn up on the auction site quite often, so getting ahold of one isn't too difficult. They cost between £150-300 usually, depending on the model (CPE-2 without or with lift respectively). The model with the lift makes it a lot easier to change and get rid of chemistry.
My Jobo.
Temperature is the most critical aspect of C41 processing. The correct temperature is 37.8 degrees Celsius, and deviating more than 2 degrees off this mark will have a bad effect on your negatives. Take the temp off your developer before you chuck it in and make sure it's no more than half a degree off. For this you need a precise thermometer. Kaiser makes some good ones. Personally I use a fever thermometer with good results.
The second most important thing is that the tank must be constantly agitated. The Jobo does this for you with the flick of a switch, so this isn't difficult to get right.
I recommend Fuji Hunt C41 for chemistry, because it has separate bleach and fix. Some kits have combined bleach and fix (blix), and although it works, it's not as good for your negs, should ex-Kodak employees be trusted (I trust them). The chemistry can be bought at SilverPrint and costs about £40 for a 5L kit.
It's quite standard to mix up 1L of working solution at a time. Here are the measurements:
You need measurement syringes (10ml ones) to mix developer and stabiliser. I recommend you buy a lot of these, as well as rubber gloves, for use when mixing and processing. C41 chemistry is a bit nasty, so make sure to wear gloves and to have adequate ventilation.
Buy a ton of measurement jugs for mixing, and mark them with what chemistry you're using them for - you don't want to use the same jug for several chems. I'd also write that they mustn't be used for cooking, lest you want to be poisoned. Keep them in a safe place, away from kids. When the chemistry is mixed, either put them in the Jobo bottles to be heated for processing, or store them in separate storage bottles. Ideally, glass bottles are the best, as they don't breathe.
I use accordion bottles, the second best thing.
Fill the storage bottles with Tetenal Protectan to prevent oxidation. Mixed chemistry that is stored well keeps for about 6-8 weeks. Unmixed it keeps for a good while longer. The developer goes bad first. You can tell it's going bad by its colour - it goes tea-coloured first, and then darker until it looks like coffee (at which point it's exhausted).
You can re-use chemistry, but you must compensate with longer development times. Consult the sheet that comes with your chemistry to determine for how much longer.
The process
Here's the process from beginning to end. Got to admit, I don't always change the wash seven times, but it's your safest bet if the negs are important.
Prewash needs to be at 38 degrees to prepare the film for the developer, which you of course have checked is at the right temperature before you pour it in. Remember to put your thermometer down in the actual developer, not the bath of the Jobo, as these are not necessarily the same.
When the process is done, and you've dipped the spirals with the film on in stabiliser (note: don't pour stabiliser in the processor, take the spirals out of the tank and put them in a jug with stabiliser).
After you've let them soak for a bit, hang them up to dry, and wash the spirals with really hot water to get rid of any leftover stabiliser, as this will make your spirals sticky. I usually just use my living room at night. Just make sure to use a space where there isn't any movement, so that dust doesn't get thrown in the air and gets into the emulsion. It takes about 3-4 hours for the negs to dry.
When the negs are good and dry, cut them and put them in PrintFile plastic holders. Then put them in an archival ringbinder box for storage, or scan them right away.
Scanning
When getting a scanner you don't have many options unless you have a big budget. You will probably end up getting a flatbed. Epson makes some excellent flatbeds in their V600, V700 and V750. I have the former, and it's a good scanner that does three frames of 6x7 at one time. The two latter have slightly better resolution and a bigger scanning area which enables you to make contact sheets more easily. These scanners have around 1600-2000 dpi actual resolution, which isn't that bad - A3+ is easily done with this kind of resolution. I recommend getting VueScan or SilverFast for your scanning as the software that comes with the Epsons isn't too good.
If you'd like to print bigger, you can either splurge and get a Coolscan 9000 or a Flextight, or you can send your negs to be drum scanned by a professional operator. With a really good scan, you can easily print A1 from your 120 negative. I heartily recommend you do this as the results are often more stunning than you thought they would be. That's medium format for you. Of course large format is even better but let's save that to some other time.
(TBC)
-
This is bit of a draft, I realise I might have missed out a few important things and I hope you can help me to make the text better by giving me some pointers. Cheers.
Erik
Last edited:
just my points:
