A really challenging depth of field problem

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I just had a call from somebody who was looking for some help/advice with his photography problem. It turned out to be way beyond my area of competence. I was able to discuss some general issues with him but I felt I was really floundering in terms of positive, practical help. Can anyone else out there help?

His situation is that he's got lots of 8mm film to digitise. A frame of 8mm film measures 4.5mm x 3.3mm. He has a custom built optical rig with an industrial CCD and a microscope lens on a precision focusing rail. The CCD is a 2/3" type, which is approximately 8.5mm x 7mm in size. So he's effectively got a magnification ratio of a bit more than 2, and that puts it into pretty extreme macro territory by the standards of the photography that most of us are used to. He estimates the distance from the film to the sensor as about 25cm.

His problem is that some of this film is old and in poor quality, and it's slightly bowed. His depth of field is so shallow that he can't get the whole frame in focus when it is bowed. Obviously with the film only 4.5 x 3.3mm across the amount by which it's bowed is only a fraction of a mm, but that's enough to put it out of focus. The film already runs through pressure plates either side of the imaging apparatus, so there's no obvious mechanical solution available to make it more flat.

The lens is a Russian microscope lens of unknown specification. It was chosen by a process of trial and error and delivers excellent results in most circumstances. It doesn't have an aperture control. My "correspondant" has the idea of cutting a precisely circular hole into a thin metal disc, and inserting that into the optical path to create an artificial aperture. A smaller aperture should create a larger depth of field, all other things being equal. Obviously that will require adjustments to the exposure time and/or sensor gain, or more light behind the film, but that's something he can manage. However, increasing the exposure time means slowing down the frame rate and therefore extending the time taken to digitise a whole film. Increasing the sensor gain risks degrading the image. So he wants to use the largest possible aperture which will deliver the required depth of field.

The questions are:
  • Will that work?
  • Does it make a difference whereabouts in the optical path the aperture disk is inserted?
  • Is there any way of estimating how small the hole ("aperture") would need to be, to increase his depth of field to (say) 1mm?
Any ideas? Any suggestions for a different solution?
 
Has he tried squashing the film between two glass plates so it is perfectly flat and always at a fixed distance? If it's the anti newton glass then you shouldn't get the weird rings.
 
Has he tried squashing the film between two glass plates so it is perfectly flat and always at a fixed distance? If it's the anti newton glass then you shouldn't get the weird rings.
This is what I'd suggest. The problem with DoF is that it is perceived. You would also need to know what size it was being displayed at finally to be able to answer the question. Far better to get it in focus properly when being digitised rather than try and fudge it with DoF calcs (and the resolution of the CCD may also come into play too).
 
anti newton glass would work for stills but im guessing this is video film, so you have a horrific amount of frames to do
I think a apature needs to go into a certain part of the lens to effect dof :(
 
anti newton glass would work for stills but im guessing this is video film, so you have a horrific amount of frames to do
Yes, exactly. I don't know whether it would be feasible to have the two glass plates close enough together to flatten the film, and yet still be able to pull the film through it at 4 frames per second (which is what they currently do).
 
I stand to be corrected but I believe that installing "a restrictor" on the object side of the optics produces a vignette (without change in DoF) whilst placing it on the image side will increase DoF (without a vignette)....the system is used in extended DoF microscopy.

Bob
 
Is he using a single lens solution? If so, getting the correct place to put the aperture stop without vignetting will be close to impossible. Can you pose pics of the objective with any markings and also the exact setup of the rig? He'll also be somewhat limited if he wants to keep the 4fps scanning speed. Has he thought of using a teflon backplate with some holes drilled in it and then having a vacuum to hold the film flat? Also, did he have a flat field of view when imaging something actually flat? 8x8mm is a very large field of view for a microscope objective and I'd be surprised if there's no curvature of field over that size.

What's his budget for bits and pieces? That would help decide whether ordering other lenses would be a better solution!
 
Maybe try and old enlarging lens. Very sharp, very cheap, flat field, and they have aperture control! They have a 39mm mounting thread. If more light is needed, try flash.

Flatening the film between glass is a good idea, if it's practical, eg a glass slide mount. He'd probably only need it on one side to make a big improvement.
 
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Is he using a single lens solution? If so, getting the correct place to put the aperture stop without vignetting will be close to impossible. Can you pose pics of the objective with any markings and also the exact setup of the rig? He'll also be somewhat limited if he wants to keep the 4fps scanning speed. Has he thought of using a teflon backplate with some holes drilled in it and then having a vacuum to hold the film flat? Also, did he have a flat field of view when imaging something actually flat? 8x8mm is a very large field of view for a microscope objective and I'd be surprised if there's no curvature of field over that size.

What's his budget for bits and pieces? That would help decide whether ordering other lenses would be a better solution!

I too though about using vacuum to pull the film down flat. Making it so the holes aren't visible in the final image is the main issue I can think of. Perhaps if the air is draw to the sides (underneath of course). Good call to suggest teflon.
 
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