70-200F4 to 70-200F4 IS

[arad85]

So I have the 70-200F4 non IS. Lovely lens It's bonus time so I'm thinking of changing the non IS for the IS version. What do people think (no point suggesting the 2.8 - I don't do any photography in low light that would need the extra stop of aperture vs just turning ISO up a stop and I'm NOT interested in lugging a 1.3kg lens with me). Main use will be outdoor photography in reasonable light/overcast days.

A question: does the body detect the lens has IS and drop shutter speeds before increasing ISO accordingly. I can't seem to tell with my 24-105 IS...

 

[LongLensPhotography]

A question: does the body detect the lens has IS and drop shutter speeds before increasing ISO accordingly. I can't seem to tell with my 24-105 IS...

:shrug: I don't know what you are on about. You can turn the IS on or off and set any settings you need.

 

[Mark_C]

I'm pretty sure the IS works independently of the body. The camera will operate the same as with a non IS lens, just that you're less likely to get camera shake at longer exposures.

 

[arad85]

:shrug: I don't know what you are on about.

What I mean is.. does the camera detect you have a 200mm lens with IS and then decide on P mode that the minimum shutter speed is now 1/25 because the IS will stabilise the 3 stops it gives you being IS.

I don't think it does having played with my 24-105...

 

[dfawkes]

Short answer, no. My 5D2 will always bump ISO up to 3200 before decreasing shutter speed even if the shutter speed is still in IS range of effect. So with auto iso you only really get the IS effect kicking in when you're already at 3200. Ie it's pretty dumb.

When auto iso first came out on canons there was a lot of talk about improvements, such as a manual 'adjust by x stops' or 'only auto iso when shutter speed gets to x' but haven't seen any such changes (or removing auto iso=400 in M) in recent models.

 

[arad85]

<sigh> I really have bought an expensive manual camera haven't I

 

[andyred]

So I have the 70-200F4 non IS. Lovely lens It's bonus time so I'm thinking of changing the non IS for the IS version. What do people think ...

Have you had any issues with your non IS version, that having IS would have helped / saved a photo ?

If not, only you can answer whether it's worth spending the extra few hundred for the IS....

If so, then go get one

 

[Robfb]

For my money I would be looking for another lens to add to my collection rather than change an excellent 70-200 just to get IS, if you were going to the 2.8 maybe, but certainly not for another f4.

My 0.2d worth

Rob

 

[arad85]

Have you had any issues with your non IS version, that having IS would have helped / saved a photo ?

Good question... Yes, but I do try to take a couple of pictures so I have a couple of chances to get it right. So now you have me

 

[footman]

I moved from the non-IS to the IS quite recently. Both pin sharp, look identical results to me.
What swung it for me is that I have a slight wobble/shake. I now have more keepers because of the IS.
Purely subjectively, I feel the AF is ever so slightly slower with IS, but real world difference is probably negligible.

 

[hashcake]

<sigh> I really have bought an expensive manual camera haven't I

No you haven't, you've bought a cracking DSLR camera.
Forget about 'P' mode, if that's what you want to then sell and buy a compact camera
Learn how to use AV and TV modes then progress onto manual mode if you want.
Almost three years on and I am still trying to master this malarky, however when I produce a photo I really like, it will always be far better than what 'P' mode can do.

 

[Skawt]

no point suggesting the 2.8 - I don't do any photography in low light that would need the extra stop of aperture vs just turning ISO up a stop

But.... Mmmmmm, depth of field of 200mm @ f2.8.

I am going to go ahead and say no, it would not be worth your while dropping the extra money on the IS version, just use a good tripod or monopod.

The IS in my 2.8 means I can drop my shutter speed from 1/60th at 200mm to 1/15th at 200mm before I see camera shake.
So in other words, 2 stops less than what I was previously managing to stop down to, exactly what it says on the tin... No need to complicate

 

[andyred]

Good question... Yes, but I do try to take a couple of pictures so I have a couple of chances to get it right. So now you have me

Ha ha, sorry bit you did ask.

Something else to think about then !!

Are there any other lenses that you are short of in your range ?

Don't dismiss the 2.8 as a lens to save up for, as this helps in difficult light conditions where the IS can help and can really isolate the subject.

Hope this helps and doesn't give you a headache

 

[arad85]

No you haven't, you've bought a cracking DSLR camera.

Teehee... I don't use P mode (normally Av mode, unless flash when I do use P), but I would like a mode that used the information it has available intelligently. For example, unless I manually set the ISO level, I'm going to end up with the camera autoing the ISO to 3200 to keep the shutter speed above 1/200th (at 200mm) when what I'd rather do is trade off the ISO for shutter speed as I have a IS lens... I'm effectively turning the camera into a manual one (already selected Av, now ISO all the camera is doing is working out shutter speed) Make sense?

But.... Mmmmmm, depth of field of 200mm @ f2.8.

I am going to go ahead and say no, it would not be worth your while dropping the extra money on the IS version, just use a good tripod or monopod.

Most of my photography is not tripod/monopod but handheld at the weekends. I'm loath to get a monopod as I use a black rapid system to carry the camera and I don't want to have to hitch/unhitch every time I want to use it.

Ha ha, sorry bit you did ask.

Something else to think about then !!

Are there any other lenses that you are short of in your range ?

Not really. I have a 12-24,24-105,70-200 and a 1.4x TC, so I'm covered up to 280mm... Have a nifty fifty but don't use it much so not thinking about primes...

Am wondering if I should get a 17-40L... the sigma is prone to a slight softness on the left hand side (may just send it to sigma to look at though)

Don't dismiss the 2.8 as a lens to save up for, as this helps in difficult light conditions where the IS can help and can really isolate the subject.

Hope this helps and doesn't give you a headache

I really don't need the 2.8 for low light and I wouldn't want to lug it around with me just in case...

Thanks for the feedback though people - given me more things to think about

 

[HoppyUK]

So I have the 70-200F4 non IS. Lovely lens It's bonus time so I'm thinking of changing the non IS for the IS version. What do people think (no point suggesting the 2.8 - I don't do any photography in low light that would need the extra stop of aperture vs just turning ISO up a stop and I'm NOT interested in lugging a 1.3kg lens with me). Main use will be outdoor photography in reasonable light/overcast days.

If you've got the cash, I would change to the IS version. It's just such a useful feature, and the IS version is all round better, too.

It's completely updated optically and sharper than the non-IS. Not massively, because the non-IS lens is already extremely good, but you should notice an improvement with an extender.

The IS lens is also weather-proofed and has rounded aperture blades.

A question: does the body detect the lens has IS and drop shutter speeds before increasing ISO accordingly. I can't seem to tell with my 24-105 IS...

Good question, and the answer is no, at least on the 5D2. Not sure about all Canon DSLRs, although according to Ken Rockwell some compacts take IS into account in auto-ISO mode. It is focal length sensitive though. Here's what Our Ken said:

Auto ISO is one setting among the ISO selections.

Auto ISO isn't programmable or changable, but it's also much smarter than the Auto ISO in Nikons. With the 5D MArk II, you use Auto ISO as it is, or you use something else.

In the 5D Mark II, Auto ISO knows your lens focal length, and automatically varies the lowest shutter speed accordingly.

Auto ISO also has a "soft landing" feature. Instead of staying at the lowest ISO until the slowest shutter speed is hit as does Nikon, Canon's Auto ISO starts ramping up the ISO before the shutter speeds start approaching the slow limit.

Auto ISO is programmed to use slow speeds 1/3 stop slower than 1/focal length.

Canon's inviolate slow speed limits in Auto ISO are those you'd pick for still subjects, but not for action.This is fine for most work, but too slow for shooting action, where I set my Nikons to 1/125 slowest speed to stop my kids' action indoors.

With a 50mm lens, Canon's Auto ISO tries to keep you at 1/40 or faster.

At 70mm and 100mm, it's 1/80, and at 200mm, it's 1/160.

At 35mm it's 1/30, and at 16mm, it's 1/15.

Since Canon's Auto ISO can't be altered, it's useless for shooting action with wide and normal lenses. unless you shoot in Tv mode.

Canon's Auto ISO still isn't smart enough to know if you have Image Stabilization switched ON or OFF. Canon's point-and-shoots are smart enough. Drats!

Auto ISO works even with Highlight Tone Priority ON, although of course it starts at ISO 200 instead of ISO 100.

When shooting flash, Auto ISO always selects ISO 400. http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/5d-mk-ii.htm