50d and lens focus adjustment *Edit: More dumb questions*

swag72

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Have just got my 50d - Having a little play. I adjusted the AF for each lens within the menu settings. I maxed my 100-400L with the + 20 adjustment. There was a MASSIVE difference in clarity. So, I'm pleased about that, but should I be concerned that I've made maximum adjustment and it's made such a difference?

Help, all you 50d owners out there!
 
How does the +20 compare to your other lenses? If they were similar it might be that the body needs adjusting by Canon but if it's only the 100-400 that's at the extreme I'd get that adjusted instead - it could be that +25 is better yet but of course you can't check that.
 
I've been through 8 of my 9 lenses (the 9th arrived this afternoon) and calibrated them. Some needed no adjustment and some needed a bit of a nudge, but not much. I can't remember the largest movement but it was maybe +/- 5 or 6.

I did have my 100-400 set to +10 (I think) after my first calibration attempt, but after changing my approach to judging focus accuracy I ended up at +2.

I suppose you could argue that if the adjustment scale goes up to +/-20 then that range is there to be used, but I would be concerned that either the body or lens was really too far off base calibration if I need to go to one extreme or the other. Remember that what's good at one end of the zoom range may or may not be good at other focal lengths.
 
I did have my 100-400 set to +10 (I think) after my first calibration attempt, but after changing my approach to judging focus accuracy I ended up at +2.

WHat is the best way to calibrate the lens? I simply took a couple of pics in the same place, and focal length and then looked at which was clearer when I zoomed in on the LCD.

Is there something more scientific I should be doing?
 
google af microadjust chart and you should find an image for an LCD that works well with live view.
 
Here's my test target....

2008-11-03-14-48-11_0070_DPP.JPG


and here's my result after calibration....

2008-11-03-14-15-04_0040_DPP.JPG


The camera was on a tripod and I used Live View at 10X magnification to check focus and adjust incrementally until my DOF band straddled my target strip of paper perfectly.
 
Thanks will have a try soon. One last dumb question.

When I look through the viewfinder, should the LCD go off like it did on my 450? Can't find anything in the manual.
 
No it should not. The 450D needs that feature because there is no top LCD display to see what you are doing. But you don't want the LCD lighting up your face and mucking about with your vision when you put your eye up to the viewfinder to shoot. So it automatically turns off.

With the 40D/50D the option to bring up the settings display on the LCD is discretionary - you turn it on, you turn it off again. It is not supposed to be automatic.
 
So I just get the pic on the computer screen, and take pictures of it at various focal lengths? Is it that simple?

I predominantly use my 100-400, so do I adjust it at the end I use most? ie: about 375mm?
 
So I just get the pic on the computer screen, and take pictures of it at various focal lengths? Is it that simple?
You don't even need to take the shots to get close, just see what the AF gives you....that's the advantage of a moire pattern.


I predominantly use my 100-400, so do I adjust it at the end I use most? ie: about 375mm?
Focus is always more critical at the longer end so that would be my approach.

Bob
 
So I'm just looking for clarity and sharpness across the whole image am I?

If so, I have tried this at -20 / 0 / +20 and there was no discernible difference.
 
So I'm just looking for clarity and sharpness across the whole image am I?

If so, I have tried this at -20 / 0 / +20 and there was no discernible difference.

The target is just for the AF to lock on to, you should be seeing the infill pattern changing from grey to crisp and back to grey as the focus changes from front focussed to back focussed.

Bob
 
The beauty of my method is that you can see exactly where the focus has been achieved and exactly how far off it is and whether it is back or front focused. With the Northlight version, if you are off then you don't know by how much or even, necessarily, in which direction. The focus precision is so fine when you get down to that mm level that I'm sure you can't even see the lens move to adjust focus.

I tried the Northlight approach and didn't like it. That's why I used my modified version of the tried and tested "standard" AF test chart, as described here....

http://www.focustestchart.com/focus21.pdf

or this one that is equal in principle....

http://photo.net/learn/focustest/

Also, it is my understanding (rightly or wrongly) that when manufacturers calibrate AF on lenses and bodies they do so at a subject distance of something like 40X - 50X the focal length of the lens under test. This means that for a lens at 400mm you should calibrate it at 20m distance. This actually makes some sense for two reasons. (1) it means that whichever lens you test, your focus target is always the same size relative to the AF sensor; (2) In general terms you have a longer focal length lens in order to magnify a subject that is further away. If you have a 400mm lens, whereabouts are you most likely to be using it - 1.8m away, 20m away, 100m away from your subject? By picking a calibration target at 20m you set the focus to be as accurate as possible at a representative distance for the lens use, while keeping a sufficiently narrow DOF to be able to determine the sharp point of focus. At 20m the DOF (according to http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html) for a 400mm f/5.6 lens is +/- 26cm. I think I read somewhere on Fred Miranda (can't find it now) that on a 1 series body with f/2.8 glass or faster the AF is accurate to within 1/3 DOF. But on a non 1 series body, or with glass slower than f/2.8, the AF is only good to fall somewhere within the DOF. I'm not sure how well a moire pattern would show up at 20m from a screen when the focus could be accurate to within +/- 26 cm.

I think I've waffled on long enough so sorry for all that drivel. Just let me leave you with this thread from Fred Miranda, to ponder, regarding a suitable distance at which to calibrate your AF (clue - it is not likely to be 6', unless you always shoot at 6').

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/forum/topic/683341
 
The target is just for the AF to lock on to, you should be seeing the infill pattern changing from grey to crisp and back to grey as the focus changes from front focussed to back focussed.

Bob

Sorry Bob, I must be so stupid!! This is exactly what happens, BUT what am I looking for?
 
The target is just for the AF to lock on to, you should be seeing the infill pattern changing from grey to crisp and back to grey as the focus changes from front focussed to back focussed.

Bob

Sorry Bob, I must be so stupid!! This is exactly what happens, BUT what am I looking for?

The crisp bit between the two occurances of grey is "focus perfection"

Bob
 
I just use a tape measure and point/angle my lens at approx 45 degrees......not sure if thats a decent test or not :shrug:
 
I just use a tape measure and point/angle my lens at approx 45 degrees......not sure if thats a decent test or not :shrug:

If you're getting results that you're happy with then it's a good test.

Bob
 
Well I've just tried it with a couple of lenses on the MKIII and it doesn't look as though any calibration is needed.
 
I just use a tape measure and point/angle my lens at approx 45 degrees......not sure if thats a decent test or not :shrug:

Potentially it is not. The AF sensors are a lot larger than the little squares in the viewfinder suggest. If you point at a tape measure at an angle, where you have areas of high contrast all the way along it, the AF sensor could decide to focus anywhere it finds a sharp edge. That might be at the bottom of the sensor, a few mm towards you, or at the top of the sensor, a few mm away from you, or slap bang in the middle.

That is why you need a focus target that is either square on to the lens, or very thin, such as my thin strip of white paper. You cannot use a focus target accurately that has any depth to it. That is why one example of a "standard" focus target is like this....

image036.jpg


You need clear, contrast free space around your AF target so that you can be certain exactly what the camera is focusing on. In this example you focus on the black bar in the middle of the paper to give the AF a clear target to focus on. There needs to be clear space around the target point. The scales on the sides of the paper allow you to judge whereabout your focus actually has ended up, but the target itself - the thing you point the sensor at - must be simple and unambiguous.

My test target is a modification of this test sheet, using the patterning on the back of some hardboard to show precisely where my focus is. The strip of paper provides the unambiguous focus target. That said, I think I may have to review my adjustments once again, as I know the camera can focus on the hardboard dimples too, so the strip of paper is not a concrete guarantee that the camera it the right point. What I really need is a square of plain paper, with a single strong black line as the target, stuck in the middle of the hardboard. Then I will have the best of all worlds (I hope).

There is another design of paper test target that has been doing the rounds but just now I cannot find an example. Basically it requires the paper to be at 45 degrees to the camera, and has a graduated scale at the edges. However, you cut out a flap in the centre of the paper and actually lift that up so that it stands proud and upright and square to the camera. With a nice big X on it or something similar you have a foolproof point at which to aim your AF sensor. There should be nothing infront of or behind the target on that flap that could trick the sensor, so long as you are close enough to the paper to completely cover the sensor with the target on the flap with your chosen focal length.

Here's nother example, once again with similar principles and a clear explanation....

http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart/
 
Yes I have that test piece of paper. Fortunately so far non of my lenses appear to need any calibration :thumbs:
 
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