450D Technique Questions

jpwild

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I am forever learning features of my 450D camera. I've been reading up on the focus recompose technique and hopefully try it soon and see how it goes. I've changed, via custom functions, the metering/shutter button so the focus happens on the back button of the camera.

From what I've read this is generally the technique:

1) Decide what to shoot and the composition

2) Meter the scene

3) Make a note of the exposure. If necessary override the camera's exposure.

4) Change setting to 'M' dial in the metering. Otherwise I would be holding the shutter halfway and still have bit more stuff to do.

5) Decide with the centre focal point what part of the scene is to be sharpest and lock that focus.

6) Shoot!

Now I know on step 4 I don't have to do that and could hold the shutter half way, but then I'd also have to hold the back button down too to lock focus on area of the scene, if needed. Just seems a bit much all at once. perhaps am use to the shutter button doing metering and focusing.

Is it possible to press the focus lock button and have it hold the focus without keeping finger on the button - like what I do when the AE option is selected?

Can back button focal lock be archive whilst using remote shutter? Obviously I don't want to be touching the camera in that way if am also using remote shutter for that scene as it would be a bit pointless. At the moment I can only do it by holding the button.

On a side note I have couple more questions:

A) Which lens is suitable for museum photos. Such as Imperial War museum? I've not shot indoors or in that scene before. I also doubt I will need to use polarizer indoors too, will I? Thee of my lenses listed below:

18-55 Kit lens
Tokina 11-16
Canon 70-200 F4L

B) Is it best to meter a scene with or without Lee grad filters? I have 1,2 and 3 stop Lee grad filters and was just curious about it.

many thanks for time and feedback.
 
I have the 450D and if you are using the back focus button as soon as you let go the focus is locked.

You can also lock the exposure by pressing the release button halfway down and holding then recompose - the exposure will stay locked unless you release the button.
 
I assume I meter first? Then do the focus lock after?

So I still have to keep my finger on the shutter button half way to keep exposure?

I shall try the focus thing. I though it was losing focus lock because as soon as i release the back button the logo on the viewfinder tends to disappear.
 
Hi I did not know about this back button to hold focus on the 450d which one is it?
 
Hi I did not know about this back button to hold focus on the 450d which one is it?

Set it via custom function 10 I think it is and select 1.

The AE button then becomes the button to focus. Metering is then used via the shutter button.
 
Think its actually function 10 and then option 3, this enables AF lock via the * button

Use on AI servo and then press the * button to lock focus, recompose if desired and then use the shutter button for metering and taking the shot
 
Not sure why you are doing step 4. Why not have the camera set to manual in the first place? You meter the scene and adjust the shutter (or ap) accordingly. That way you dont need to worry about locking the exposure.
 
A) Which lens is suitable for museum photos. Such as Imperial War museum? I've not shot indoors or in that scene before. I also doubt I will need to use polarizer indoors too, will I? Thee of my lenses listed below:

18-55 Kit lens
Tokina 11-16
Canon 70-200 F4L

B) Is it best to meter a scene with or without Lee grad filters? I have 1,2 and 3 stop Lee grad filters and was just curious about it.

many thanks for time and feedback.

A) That's a tricky one. I'm afraid there isn't a straight answer, you'll probably want to take all 3. You might want a polariser for some shots as they remove reflections...but not all the time.

B) It's probably better to do it both with and without, but I suspect few do that. As long as you have tested the filters do what they say (and they should) you can just do it with them on. Check the pics on the LCD though.
 
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As for the back button, if you set it to the second option down (I don't recall at the moment) the back button locks focus and activates the metering, so you can adjust, then when you use the shutter button, you get a second chance. I'd use the camera in Manual and just go from there for general usage. There's a few things, panning, shooting astronomy flats, that I do use specific settings. tim (tdodd) posted some excellent advice about metering and exposure settings in a thread on shooting birds, superb bit of writing and great advice, I'll see if I can dig it up.
 
I've found the kit lens very good for use inside museums where flash is a no-go. The IS is great and if you push the ISO up abit you still can get usable pics. I'm sure some one will come along and say you need a prime for it but thismight help you.

Adam.
 
I've found the kit lens very good for use inside museums where flash is a no-go. The IS is great and if you push the ISO up abit you still can get usable pics. I'm sure some one will come along and say you need a prime for it but thismight help you.

Adam.

Primes would be a inconvenient in a museum as you can get a lot closer to some items than others. Not that inconvenience is the end of the world...but it is always a consideration.
 
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