3D Printed 6x7 Snapshot Camera...test runs.

[Solo man]

This is a thread to show how I've got on with the 3D printed body that @stevelmx5 kindly sent to me to have a fiddle with. I've yet to put bellows on the field camera.

So, first off I swapped the lens. The one I used was taken from a Dacora (75mm f3.5). It has a different flange depth to the lens that Steve had used, and, it focused 'fixed' at about 2 feet(that was a challenge in itself).
I also put foam inserts inside the body...lining all 4 sides(however I did not put foam on the inner front, as I used a square washer to stop the light leaking in as a spacer between the body and lens).
I screwed in a tripod mount taken from a folder.
First test... Sunday, I put in a roll of out of date Portra 400, and shot it at ISO 200.
A big problem with the Graphic roll film back and getting it loaded correctly meant I didn't get the correct spacing and that meant I lost the first and last frame.
I developed that roll in C41(BUT, the C41 has only been used to develop 4 rolls of XP2, hence the colours aren't great.)

So, the camera now looks like this.

And the first lot of images came out like so...

These images show what I think is lens flare as well as a light leak... somewhere.

So...images from today... the tripod mount is now screwed and glued in place, and, the camera now sports a lens hood. And still I can't figure out how to load the film as again I lost the first and last frame.

Working distance is about this much...

So, today's test run.
Used an out of date roll of XP2(these rolls are good for showing light leaks as if there is a leak, you will see the backing paper in the image)...

 

[Solo man]

And, the backing paper showing...

So...any suggestions as to where the light leak is coming from, as, each negative has a strip of light leakage showing at the bottom...

 

[stevelmx5]

They're looking really good Lee! Shame about the working distance, unfortunately that means the lens is too close to the film plane rather than too far away so can't be corrected with spacers.

I like the results you've got from the roll of XP2 though, really nice detail and falloff.

 

[stevelmx5]

If the light leak is at the bottom in a line, that suggests the gap is at the top somewhere. I taped up the slot I'd originally designed for drop in filters so make sure that's still light tight.

 

[stevelmx5]

Actually, also make sure that your rollfilm back is tight against the rear body. My rollfilm back has the raised parts filed down so the face is completely flat. If you're still has the raised pieces they will be pushing it away from the face of the camera.

 

[Solo man]

They're looking really good Lee! Shame about the working distance, unfortunately that means the lens is too close to the film plane rather than too far away so can't be corrected with spacers.

I like the results you've got from the roll of XP2 though, really nice detail and falloff.

Yes, I didn't use it as a spacer, more as an extra 'thing' to block any light coming in through the front of the body and lens, as that lens is too small for your opening and just fell out lol.

I quite liked the challenge of the working distance, and I have had a fiddle with your lens and may still use that one instead, maybe I'll try it tomorrow.

 

[Solo man]

If the light leak is at the bottom in a line, that suggests the gap is at the top somewhere. I taped up the slot I'd originally designed for drop in filters so make sure that's still light tight.

I thought that, but, all 4 sides have now a foam insert, so, your taped bit shouldn't make any difference as the inner is now lined with black foam...?

 

[Solo man]

Actually, also make sure that your rollfilm back is tight against the rear body. My rollfilm back has the raised parts filed down so the face is completely flat. If you're still has the raised pieces they will be pushing it away from the face of the camera.

Ahhh.... ok, I will have a look at that, as I just whacked it on and merrily shot away. However, I may switch to using the 6x6 Graphic back as the spacing seems to work on that.

 

[StephenM]

Love the cat

I have to ask though: the Exakta is obviously either a IIA or IIB (the VX 1000 seems unlikely) - which is it, and is that the f/2 Pancolor lens?

I didn't know you had an Exakta. They're even more fun than OM1s.

Sorry to divert the thread.

 

[Asha]

Sorry to divert the thread.

Poacher!!.......Brian @excalibur2 is the king of TP diverters and I'm his sidekick[/QUOTE]

 

[Solo man]

Love the cat

I have to ask though: the Exakta is obviously either a IIA or IIB (the VX 1000 seems unlikely) - which is it, and is that the f/2 Pancolor lens?

I didn't know you had an Exakta. They're even more fun than OM1s.

Sorry to divert the thread.

Hi Stephen, ha trying to take a photo of a moving thing with that camera is a chore in itself. I didn't even bother to attempt focus with the ground glass, I just took the shot.

Anyway... it's an Exacta IIA, and yes, it is an f2 50mm Pancolor lens.
I haven't used it, it came with other cameras and I couldn't be bothered to try it. It sure is a hefty thing. Do you want it? ( I did unscrew the prism thing as I struggled to see looking through the viewfinder, but I can screw it all back). the lens has had a uv filter on... it all looks fine, just I haven't tested it).

 

[StephenM]

I'd be very happy to take it - do you want to move to classified?

I assume that if you found something that you could unscrew it must have had the magnifier viewfinder? The Exaktas from the Varex onwards had interchangeable viewfinders as well as focusing screens. On the Varex IIA, there's a catch on the front of the camera above the lens (visible in your photos) and pushing down towards the lens lets you lift out the finder. Other options were a waist level finder and a pentaprism (with TTL metering in later finders), and the rather more unusual stereo finder used with the stereo adapter to make steroscopic photos.

Shutter speeds from 1/1000th to 12 seconds. The Exakta was the first 35mm SLR so it's a piece of history.

After all that, you might want to keep it!

 

[Solo man]

I'd be very happy to take it - do you want to move to classified?

I assume that if you found something that you could unscrew it must have had the magnifier viewfinder? The Exaktas from the Varex onwards had interchangeable viewfinders as well as focusing screens. On the Varex IIA, there's a catch on the front of the camera above the lens (visible in your photos) and pushing down towards the lens lets you lift out the finder. Other options were a waist level finder and a pentaprism (with TTL metering in later finders), and the rather more unusual stereo finder used with the stereo adapter to make steroscopic photos.

Shutter speeds from 1/1000th to 12 seconds. The Exakta was the first 35mm SLR so it's a piece of history.

After all that, you might want to keep it!

You may not want it!..but I have moved to classifieds.

 

[Solo man]

So.... round 3 with the 3D printed camera, and I'm sure @stevelmx5 did not envisage the camera being used in quite the same way as I have used it.
I had an "I wonder what if....." moment. So stuck a close up lens to the front of the lens hood... well electrical tape was my friend.
Still using the Dacora lens it meant I was able to take some close up shots.
Still using the out of date XP2... and that combined with some underexposure, hasty development and still an unresolved issue with light leaking means they aren't perfect...but the camera is certainly more than capable.

 

[stevelmx5]

They're brilliant results! To be fair, like most of my builds, I don't really have any fixed ideas in my head until it's built so I've got no issues with trying new setups :0)

 

[Solo man]

They're brilliant results! To be fair, like most of my builds, I don't really have any fixed ideas in my head until it's built so I've got no issues with trying new setups :0)

Well to do close ups is no easy task, as getting that back on after focusing without it moving was a challenge. So I may just stick your lens back and make it easy o myself. I'm not even sure there is a light leak looking at the daisy's there doesn't appear to be stray light, although the last one clearly shows backing paper.

 

[steveo_mcg]

Well to do close ups is no easy task, as getting that back on after focusing without it moving was a challenge. So I may just stick your lens back and make it easy o myself. I'm not even sure there is a light leak looking at the daisy's there doesn't appear to be stray light, although the last one clearly shows backing paper.

Looks like backing paper in all of them, what film was it Lee? Cracking shots though.

 

[Solo man]

Looks like backing paper in all of them, what film was it Lee? Cracking shots though.

Hi Steve thanks, it was XP2... out of date(1990). It normally shoots ok so long as I have correct exposure. I could have one more try with something else before I switch lens, just to rule out any 'suspect' light leak.

 

[steveo_mcg]

Hi Steve thanks, it was XP2... out of date(1990). It normally shoots ok so long as I have correct exposure. I could have one more try with something else before I switch lens, just to rule out any 'suspect' light leak.

Odd. I don't think a light leak would leave such a consistent backing paper bleed through, how do the edges and frame gaps look? It probably depends how dedicated you are to resolving the problem if you want to expend more film, if you don't change anything try a presoak before putting in the developer to wash the film in case its chemical reaction rather than photo a reaction.

 

[Solo man]

Odd. I don't think a light leak would leave such a consistent backing paper bleed through, how do the edges and frame gaps look? It probably depends how dedicated you are to resolving the problem if you want to expend more film, if you don't change anything try a presoak before putting in the developer to wash the film in case its chemical reaction rather than photo a reaction.

I never thought to look at the frame gaps... I'll check that tomorrow.

I already pre-soak the film before I develop, and, I have 30 rolls of the stuff left of the XP2, besides I have plenty of film, but it would be nice if the images came out better considering it's quite a time consuming challenge lol.

 

[Solo man]

We're now on round 6 with the camera....
Rolls 4 and 5 I switched lenses... I tried a Compur lens taken from another folder... f3. 105mm. the results weren't that great. It did however give me a longer fixed focal length, which I could reduce by using a close up filter for portrait..
Taken with the Compur lens...

Problems with focusing is an issue, and am waiting for a ground glass that fits to come as my glass is to big and has had to be taped on...I use a lot of tape lol.

Yesterday's roll I put the Dacora lens back on, and although focus is fixed to 2 feet, or less with attachments, it works much better for me...and I still haven't moved far from my table.. used Delta 400 for these... but since when did Delta 400 get to be so curly!

 

[stevelmx5]

I've just seen your problem with focussing. As you say, your ground glass is too big so you will always have issues with the minimum focus. The holder is designed to have the ground glass sunk into it which would make it around 3mm closer to the lens than you've got it now which will make a massive difference.

 

[stevelmx5]

Also, your focus plane on the glass is different to the film plane as your holder slots in to the camera in place of the glass holder so the film is in the 'right' place and the glass is 3mm back from that.

 

[Solo man]

Also, your focus plane on the glass is different to the film plane as your holder slots in to the camera in place of the glass holder so the film is in the 'right' place and the glass is 3mm back from that.

Haha, yes, I knew it would cause me a problem(and I contacted that guy in the link you gave and it should get here next week hopefully) but in all honesty it makes no difference to the Dacora lens how I focus on the ground glass, ...I have it upside down or the right way up and it still focuses where I want it to, and all these shots are taken wide open at f3.3.
However, on the Compur lens it clearly doesn't work so well, also the glass is old and isn't that clear for focusing further away.
Your lens I've fiddled with but the shutter misfires, so I'm a bit limited for lenses at the moment.

I have noticed though that both your lens and the Dacora one are both helicoid lenses, and the Compur isn't, so I think that plays a part in getting good focus.

 

[stevelmx5]

Sounds like the Compur has come off a body with a moving front standard (like a large format camera) to focus. As the printed body is fixed you will never get focus with the Compur as it sounds like the flange depth is wrong.

 

[Solo man]

Sounds like the Compur has come off a body with a moving front standard (like a large format camera) to focus. As the printed body is fixed you will never get focus with the Compur as it sounds like the flange depth is wrong.

Came off a 6x9 folder so I was going to try it on the other body as that allows some movement.

Anyway... flange depth... how do I know what lenses will have the same flange depth as yours if I was looking at taking lenses off cameras to try or acquiring?.

 

[stevelmx5]

Came off a 6x9 folder so I was going to try it on the other body as that allows some movement.

Anyway... flange depth... how do I know what lenses will have the same flange depth as yours if I was looking at taking lenses off cameras to try or acquiring?.

Unless it's documented somewhere (usually only the case with LF lenses) you would need to measure the distance between the film plane and the shutter in the lens. With the lenses you've got, I'd fit one to the body and set the focus to infinity and hold the shutter open (T setting or bulb with a locking shutter release cable) then hold the ground glass roughly in place (without the holder) and move it backwards/forwards until you get a sharp image. If the image is sharper when the glass is further away from the standard holder, you could fit spaces under the lens to move it forwards. If it sharper when the glass is closer to the lens you will either end up with a macro/close focusing portrait shooter or you won't get focus at any distance like you're seeing with the Compur shuttered lens.

 

[stevelmx5]

You may find that once the glass is correctly fitted in the holder, so it's in line with the proper film plane, you will get infinity focus back with your lens.

 

[Solo man]

Unless it's documented somewhere (usually only the case with LF lenses) you would need to measure the distance between the film plane and the shutter in the lens. With the lenses you've got, I'd fit one to the body and set the focus to infinity and hold the shutter open (T setting or bulb with a locking shutter release cable) then hold the ground glass roughly in place (without the holder) and move it backwards/forwards until you get a sharp image. If the image is sharper when the glass is further away from the standard holder, you could fit spaces under the lens to move it forwards. If it sharper when the glass is closer to the lens you will either end up with a macro/close focusing portrait shooter or you won't get focus at any distance like you're seeing with the Compur shuttered lens.

So that kind of rules out buying old lenses on the off chance they will fit then?.
I had tried a similar method to yours yes, and nothing I have has the same flange depth of yours(saying that though I have bid on a cheap Ensign with the same lens which should come this week hopefully.).

 

[Solo man]

You may find that once the glass is correctly fitted in the holder, so it's in line with the proper film plane, you will get infinity focus back with your lens.

Yes... hopefully .

 

[stevelmx5]

So that kind of rules out buying old lenses on the off chance they will fit then?.
I had tried a similar method to yours yes, and nothing I have has the same flange depth of yours(saying that though I have bid on a cheap Ensign with the same lens which should come this week hopefully.).

Unfortunately yes it does. The fixed body was built around the flange depth of the Ensign lens I had. Then again, I'd imagine that most folders had similar proportions and bellows length so most lenses should be similar flange depths or at least close enough to be able to make up shims. I'd wait for your ground glass to come and test it again with the holder in place. You might not be far off with the lenses you've got.

 

[Solo man]

Unfortunately yes it does. The fixed body was built around the flange depth of the Ensign lens I had. Then again, I'd imagine that most folders had similar proportions and bellows length so most lenses should be similar flange depths or at least close enough to be able to make up shims. I'd wait for your ground glass to come and test it again with the holder in place. You might not be far off with the lenses you've got.

Thanks Steve, the chap was very helpful, I contacted him late one evening and he dispatched the glass first thing the next morning... just waiting for it to come.