360 degree photo turn table

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deadmeat30

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Hey, I hope this is the right area for this.

I have seen 360 degree turn tables that are great for making 360 photos (for products) - Like this They are automated so rotate the table after each photo.

I was wonder if anyone knew of a way make one cheaper? Im only looking for a turn table that will rotate a set amount with a button press, doesnt have to be automated like on the websites version. Its so i can take a photo, then press a little button that will rotate the top a set amount, to let me take the next photo of the subject. doesnt have to be big, 20cm wide will do.

Any help on the subject would be great.

Many thanks,

deadmeat30
 
I think you'd need some sort of custom electronics to get it to rotate a set amount at a press of a button.

Why not use one of those serving things (Sally?) and either just mark out the rotation increments or cut in notch and pin system etc
 
Rather good thinking there...

i know this sounds bad, but what's the best way to get the measured increments worked out?
 
I would find the absolute centre first, if you have cut the top of the table yourself you will already have this point. Then its a simple marking out with a protractor to get your increments in degrees.
This has got me thinkin about my decks sitting in the dining room gathering dust lol!
 
Realistically if it's only a small set up the table doesn't even need to be automated. As long as the camera is set up correctly and centred on the axis of the item being spun, and is mounted solidly so it doesn't move (a remote shutter release would be useful to), then you could just move the table in increments by hand between each shot.

You could place a circular marker around the turntable with the increments (36 is ideal for a smooth spin) marked on it so you know you're moving it the same amount each time.
 
if you have an absolute centre marked or perhaps a hole, put something in or on the centre and then aim your camera at the said something, i would say a drinking straw or pencil and line up your camera to that, if you have a centre dot in your vie finder or an alignment grid on your live view then use that. it wont matter where your camera is positioned around the turntable so long as its pointed at the centre.
 
I am totally impressed with the rotating image, where do you get the code for that? Or is it something you have to buy into?
Couple of things. The camera isn't totally central, but that will come from practice, and your gettin big fluctuations in light, Im guessing its fluorescent light? Not sure. But the flickering is a little distracting as you scroll through. There are a couple of things you can do to combat this. The most obvious reason by the looks of things is your aperture not closing down to the same point with every shot, yes it does happen! Unless you are using old manual lenses. What happens is the aperture blades close down to the pre selected value (f number) but are not as precise as we think and sometimes close more or less, resulting in more or less light for each given shot. People shooting time lapse, which is essentially what you are doing here, have to overcome this problem, and they do so by using either old manual lenses where you set the aperture manually, or. Disconnecting the lens from the body. Now i have tried this and it does work but you have to be careful, the lens won't be locked on the body!
What you do is set your camera to manual, manually focus on your subject, select the required aperture, hold down your depth of field preview button and then release your lens as if you are going to remove it but stop short of taking it completely off, this disconnects the lens from the camera and as you had your depth of field preview button pressed then the aperture blades will be locked at whatever value you set them to. This will give you even exposures and no flickering as you scroll
 
Hehe, like everything i try and do, its for as cheap as possible! The code is free.

360 spin code

Make note in the comments at the bottom, you have to edit the j360.js file to say that part to get it work. Excellent little code though!

Thanks for the help, ill try one again when i get a chance. :)
 
Instead of turning it a fixed amount by hand why not use a motor to turn the turntable at a fixed speed and use a remote to take photos at set intervals to do all of the product?

Personally I'd have thought it would be simpler to video it turning so you can just turn it back and forth (run video backwards and forwards). That would probably be sufficient for most sites. I bet there would be some software around to pull stills out of a video. HD would be ok as it is only web use so having a massive mega pixel image is probably overkill.
 
If the motor is turning then its not about getting the degree of turn right, its about the timing of the photo interval.

Problem with video is that its still a wildcard format. YOu can embed it in flash, then certain devices wont display it. HTML 5 is an option, but then its file size. With this as well, the user can view the item at the angle they want, without having to try and catch the pause button.
 
You could convert the video into a sequence of stills which is what you're essentially doing capturing stills independently. Or you could set the video to advance a frame at a time more slowly the the standard 20 fps or whatever so there would be time to stop and go back.

Mpeg should be suitable for most devices I would have thought.
 
its probably a speed thing for not using video, i mean we (work) have just had several companies quote for 360 images and none use stills from video.

also probably a resolution thing, i mean we run a max of 1250x1250 high res images which even 1080 video wont stretch to.
 
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Well flash would be an option if you have a flash gun or and this is probably a more accessible option a simple desk lamp, 360 degree lighting need not apply as the point of view is static and the subject is also static, for every shot. Adjust your cameras white balance to suit the light being used, this will eliminate any colour cast from say incandescent or halogen bulbs.
I would recommend looking at your subject from the point of view your camera will be and moving the desk lamp around until your happy with the position of the light, if you feel you are getting too many shadows this can be offset by "bouncing" some light back onto your subject from The opposite side of the light with some white card or paper, but ensure your light source and reflector doesn't move during the sequence of shots and your still shooting manual and your lens is half cranked to stop the inconsistencies with the aperture like i mentioned before.
What you basically have now is a continuous light setup.
You seem pretty crafty so you may want to consider building a light tent or box, this is simply a frame with diffusion material such as white tracing paper or fine weave material surrounding it that you fire your flash or shine your desk lamp at that your subject sits inside and gets and gets flooded with flat even light. Run a search on diy photography for light tent and you will get the idea
 
Going back to your original sample link - they have now set up a scheme for photographer's wishing to do their own 360 photography there is a separate site at:

http://www.swiftspin360.com

you can see full details of the scheme and also get a free guide to get you started without spending a fortune.
 
Bringing back an old thread, any one know some good led lights that i can use to light the subject on the turntable?
 
I picked up this circular camp light from asda last year its got two rings of led lights and a hole in the centre, messed around with it, even glued a hot shoe attachment so it can be mounted on. Well a hot shoe but the week after i got it i spotted a product called the roto light, it looks exactly the same lol but its expensive. Now i doubt its the same gubbins and it also comes with colour filters but as it stands the asda one seems to be the same product. There are loads of these kind of things dirt cheap in said store near the light bulbs. But the advantage of the one i got is that its a ring of lights so provides a sort of ring light effect and as your shooting small things i reckon it should do ok.
The light from it is slightly blue so will have to be compensated for in white balance or later in raw but this is but a poultry affair.
 
Simon photo said:
The light from it is slightly blue so will have to be compensated for in white balance or later in raw but this is but a poultry affair.
Click to expand...

Unless you chicken out:D

( sorry couldn't resist )
 
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