35mm Cross Processing - help!

genuinegal

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Emma
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Im only new to the game of cross processing, however, i need some advice or guidance if possible please?

I will be taking shots of a models lower face (lips) whilst she is biting various items (ice cube, strawberry etc), it's for a project im doing at college. Now, i want to achieve the results from the following website


In particular using the films:


Kodak E100s

Fuji Velvia 50

Fuji Provia 100f



http://www.webmonkey.com/webmonkey/99/23/index3a_page4.html?tw=design



Can anyone please tell me what changes i should make to my camera (aperture, ISO rating etc) in order to achieve the outcome i am after displayed on the above website? Also, what type of lighting/background would be best? Natural light or artificial, white background, coloured background?


Many thanks!
 
the outcome i am after displayed on the above website

The images on that website are puny (and not at all impressive...). So what are you after? Reproducing the color rendition of those pix faithfully? (Ouch!) I would have to be able to see them properly first = a loooot bigger.
 
You don't need to make any changes re ISO etc, Just shot normally. You want to under expose by third of stop, especially with velvia 50. This would reduce the blown outs become too blown when cross processed.
 
Those photos were taken using a blue background so if you want the same look that's what you'll need to use. You state that you will be photographing lips and so I would assume that there won't be much background in your shots.

When using the slide film you have mentioned I would make sure to bracket your shots well to ensure a good exposure. You usually have to overexpose by at least a stop in order to retain any shadow detail. Also, you need to be aware cross processing usually significantly boosts contrast and highlights usually become 'blown', so make sure your lighting is fairly 'flat' ie. no really dark shadows or harsh highlights (I would recommend that you use a studio lighting setup to retain full control). Colours also become more saturated so you can either use subtle colours to avoid this or use it to your advantage.

Good Luck! (and show us the results!!)
 
Thank you so much for your replies!:)

W.Smith - I'm after the colours of the shots displayed on that side, but i also love the effect of the darkness (if that's achievable?). I believe the Fuji Velvia/Provia give a green effect to the images which is what im after.

natjag - Sorry, what do you mean re: 'reduce the blown outs become too blown..' ?

Garry79 - To be more specific, i'll be taking shots of my models lips (wearing red lip stick) biting an icecube or strawberry against an empty background (wall). In terms of the lighting, will the ceilign light be enough? I dont work in a studio unfortunately, but wish i did! What do you mean by 'bracketing' the shots? You also mentioned for me to over expose by one stop but netjag is saying 'under expose' - im confused! Im pretty sure it's over expose as ive read lots of stuff on cross processing where it has advised 'over exposing by at leat 2 fstops). Im hoping not to have any shadow in the shot, is that a good thing for the effect im after? Am i also best off using strong colours in my image? I love the effect the blue back ground has from that website when using the Kodak E100s or the Kodak VPS160 - it's a mixture of blue with a emerald green! I so want to achieve that, so hope it works! :)
 
Bracketing means taking a few of the same shot but with different exposures. eg. one correctly exposed one overexposed and one underexposed (I would recomend two over and two under to cover all bases). Experimentation is the key and you may need a few attempts to get the effect you're after. Cross processing isn't always suitable for a subject so be prepared to accept that it might not work as you expect it to. The type of light you use will have an effect on the overall colour cast and with just domestic lighting you are hampered by direction, power etc.
 
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