35mm 1.8 or 11-16mm 2.8 Tonika

35 mm 1.8 nikon or 11-16 2.8 tonika

  • 35mm

    Votes: 1 50.0%
  • 11-16mm

    Votes: 1 50.0%

  • Total voters
    2

AndyG123

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So I'm wanting to upgrade my kit lens to something a bit better. So I've seen a Tonika 11-16mm for £220 pre owned. And have seen nikon 1.8 35mm for around £100.. I know they are both very different lenses. But what would your choices be?
The portrait lens at 35mm which is in the same range as my 18-55 just with the 1.8 instead of the 4.0. Or do I do the wider angle lens for landscape and astrophotography?
 
You posted before you did not understand the answers because you only asked half the questions and you persist. If you keep going round and round you will not solve very much but you will keep going round and round. If you ask enough times you will get the answer you want only if you knew what is the answer you want. You really just want another lens to add to what you got. What do you want to achieve with the new lens?

You are probably referring to the Nikon 35mm DX lens. That is not a "portrait" lens. The Tokina 11-16mm is even less of a portrait lens. BTW. The nikon lens sells for silly prices on ebay, and there are some really abused lenses, but brand new is just under £160 in many places. Of course your decision if £100 is a good price.
 
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I'm not sure how you can have just one of these - I have the 35 and it's great, but ( depending on what I'm taking ) sometimes it's too long so I also have the 16-80 f2-8/4. Now you might think that that lens makes the 35 redundant but when I want less DoF, the 35 makes more sense and ( for me ) produces better results in terms of background separation.

Unless you only use your 18-55 at 18, I suspect you'll find just the 11-16 too limiting. What about the 11-20 ? Alternatively, keep the 18-55 for use with landscape where you don't need f2.8 and add the prime.

Have I gone round in circles ? :D
 
If you want a classic portrait lens you'd be better off with at least the 50mm 1.8. As to which lens to buy, only you can decide that based on your usage - what you shoot most of. Also, lenses as wide as the Tokina take some getting used to; it's not always easy to fill the frame with enough interesting content - you have a lot of foreground to contend with. That in mind, any lens is a landscape lens depending on where/what you shoot. You might find the kit lens wide enough to be going on with.
 
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I've got both these lenses and never use them in the same setting really. They're entirely different' First I think you need to decide what it is you really want to take shots of and go from there. Jim is right though, any lens can be a landscape lens and the Tokina does take some serious getting used to, I've had mine a fair while now and still find myself in a difficult spot getting something interesting within the 11-16 constraints.

I think you'll see much more of a difference in your shots if you go for the 35mm as your kit lens is enough to get you by already.
 
One is a wide angle zoom the other the niftyfifty of apsc. Neither cover the range of today kitzooms though the 35 will take you back to when we all had to make do with the one focallenght coming with our first slr, the 50mm. As a first extra lens i usually get one to add to my kit i.e. Having a kitzoom ill get either a wide(Zoom) or a tele, something not covered by my kit lens. Then, or if really needed, ill get the special lenses, fast, portrait, macro etc. Ofcource if you already are specialised into portrait, macro or wildlife your get the lens suitable for that asap but from your question it seems youre not.
 
First, what do you mean by 'better'? Better in what ways? Do you actually know?

Second, you don't need a lens wider than the kit one for landscape. What I mean is, you'd be better off working at your photography than just buying ever more STUFF. However, if you went for something pretty wide, you'd learn something about picture-taking by using it, because it imposes more constraints than a more normal focal length.

Yes to something with a wider aperture than the kit lens. That should be useful in lower light and/or when you want to exploit shallower depth of field. So maybe a 35 or a 50, most likely, if a prime.

And I might just add that the term 'portrait' for focal length is only a convention, and you can take 'portraits' with any bloody focal length you like. It just depends on your intention.
 
To try and clarify. I want to add another lens to my collection, I know the wide angle lens will give me a wider scope for astrophotography and with it been 2.8 It will be slightly improved over my kit lens in lower light. I know the 35mm has the 1.8 which will help background separation more and will be ideal for portraits and tighter shots with it having near the equivalent of a 50mm with my crop.

If you guys personally were starting off. What would be more useful to have in your bag and carry around... The 35mm 1.8 or the more expensive wide angle zoom lens.
 
Have I gone round in circles ? :D
It depends how many threads you started going round in circles. As for example starting from wanting to take photos of dogs and/or people with the potential of making money. Yes try taking a dog portrait with the 35mm :D
 
I’ve not started a thread about wanting to take photos of dogs..
 
To try and clarify. I want to add another lens to my collection, I know the wide angle lens will give me a wider scope for astrophotography and with it been 2.8 It will be slightly improved over my kit lens in lower light. I know the 35mm has the 1.8 which will help background separation more and will be ideal for portraits and tighter shots with it having near the equivalent of a 50mm with my crop.

If you guys personally were starting off. What would be more useful to have in your bag and carry around... The 35mm 1.8 or the more expensive wide angle zoom lens.

Genuinely, it would depend on what I wanted to shoot. What are you using your 18-55 for more now? If you're doing more landscapes then go for the Tokina. Are you planning on keeping the 18-55mm?
 
I’ve not started a thread about wanting to take photos of dogs..
with the potential of selling the photos ;) The OP has. How can we explain to him that he needs to go a bit longer and not wider...
 
I'd be tempted to buy neither and use the kit lens and add a 55 - 200 and a flash, then just go out and shoot loads of stuff.
 
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When she was starting out, I bought my daughter a D3100 and 35, and NO other lenses.

As a Smurfone jockey, the fixed focal length kept it simple, intuitive and analogous with what she was familiar with with the smurfone, as has been mentioned, like when film SLR's came with just a fast-50 on the front, wide 'max' aperture, makes for bright view-finder; lack of zoom makes you consider composition more carefully, and 'simple' non zoom construction tends to offer very good IQ for the cash they cost.

Possible shallow DoF effects are a very, very VERY small part of what these lenses can do, and using max-aperture to get it, whilst the AF sticks the red-dot on the subject and plonks that DoF arbitrarily where it happens to fall, limits even that to an even smaller range of usefulness.

Daughter having worked through O and A-Level and now doing her Degree in photography, loved that lens, and the discipline of being limited to that being almost her only lens, and making it work for her, rather than expecting the lens to do the job she hopes, just by being.

With access to all my lenses; for the Electric-Picture-Maker, the 55-300, got her exited for about twenty minutes with monster zoom 'close'. The 180Deg full round fish was utterly lost on her. The 8-16 UWA, intrigued her, but didn't delver instant 'wow', and begged too much 'work' for her to get much from it, straight off the stops... which left her ferreting through the old film cameras and borrowing my M42 primes, (and adapter) for 'alternative' lenses most often.

The Pentacon 29mm prime, has pretty similar Angle of View to the DX35, and slower f2.8 max aperture, so didn't get much attention. My Ziess 50/f2, did, especially when she started doing close ups, macro and more conventional portraiture. Eventually begged buying her the DX50 prime for EPM. Most interesting phenomenon of that, though, was WHEN she came to try getting 'selective' rather than simply 'shallow' focus effects; first she discovered that the fast aperture alone isn't really what gets it, and chasing ever lower f-number's is something of a fools errand.

What she appreciated most about that lens, was the optimised for manual operation focus control, and the large travel on the focus ring, that allowed a much more refined 'touch' to focus, and the resistance/damping on th ring, that meant it stayed where she set it, rather than traveled or crept. Clear focus distance scale, wth DoF scale brackets, also helped her exploit the lens for real 'selective-focus' effects, putting the DoF zone around her subject where she wanted it, NOT focusing slap on her subject as begged by split-field center-spot or red dot. Something difficult to impossible with an Electric-AF lens, that doesn't have the DoF brackets to help, and assumes you will leave the electrickery to pick the focus distance!

The Hanimex 135/F2.8, quickly found her favour when she had sussed this, for close up and portrait, with ever so shallow DoF and a very much wider range of critical focus, giving at relatively moderate apertures much more subtle 'focus fade' out of the DoF zone, rather than the almost clinical separation of subject and scene, that makes the subject appear almost as if they have been photo-shopped into the picture, so often obtained with very wide apertures, often on shorter focal length lenses.

The DX35 and DX50 primes then, in the range of kit 18-55 for Angle of Veiw, are likely to stay in the gadget bag and NOT be used in place of the kit, unless you wish to use the wide aperture for shallow focus effect. As such, the brghter view-finder will little be exploited. The demand of having to 'zoom with your feet' and be more consderate of compostion, will likely not be experienced, let alone normalised to a dscipline, and ALL they will be used for IS wackng the aperture to the max, making the SoF a razor blade, making subjects look photo-shopped into the back-ground, and looking smug, telling people "Yeah, fantastic lens, that one; Cant do that with a Kit!"

11-16? Is a UWA. Great lens. Personally I picked the Siggy 8-16 for the extra wide, which is something 'if' you get 'into' wide angle photography you will almost undoubtedly want more of from a wide. In my case, most often used for opening up small spaces, woking up close, rather than trying to grab enormouse expanses of very big ones, at moon and more sort of focus dstances, as with Astro.

UWA's are an acquired taste, and they are very VERY difficult to work with, even more so work with WELL.

I dont do astro-photography, but, pretty sure many exponents of that will suggest similar; more scene rarely does more 'photo' make; usually just more 'boring'. For starting out in that genre, I believe that the conventional advice is to use a telescope, or long zoom, and learn to pick your subject, before you try grabbing whole galaxies!

On a slightly more terrestrial scale, the 'wow' of an ultra-wide-angle is so often completely lost, on big spaces, the lens packing ever so much more 'boring' in the frame, as well as actually unwanted 'clutter' from the lack of discipline in composition and checking corners and paying attention to so much detal, made so small by the lens. While, the huge angle of view also makes the angle of incidence an awful lot more critical, and just a couple of degrees more tilt up or down or left or right, completely alters the composition, more the perspective, so the lens begs INORDINATELY more from you to make it work and get what you hope for.

Long Lenses; deliver a lot of 'wow' from having such a narrow angle of view, croppng so much distracting detail from the scene and delivering the bt of interest, large and with maimum impact in the frame. Making them reletively that much easier to get results with, almost straight off the stops. Wde's are completely the other way, and they demand so much more from you, to 'get' seemngly so little from them, so much more subtely.

SO! Reviewing your prior posts... I would suggest Richard-Prior "Vote None of the Above!" You have jumped in to the pursuit, very very recently, what, three months ish? You have an ENORMOUS amount of enthusiasm and excitement, but even more AMBITION... but seems not a heck of a lot of patience, or know how, nor the diligence to work at getting it...

"Can I take proffessional Shots with an Entry DSLR?" thread, is revealing in the underlying motive, that camera kit is expensive, so IF you can sell picturs, that may help you buy all the toys you aspire to, to help make it a more 'profitable' hobby....

BUT... it also demonstrats the flutter-bye effect pretty well.... in that thread you wanted to specalise in 'pet portraiture'... which you seemed to believe would be 'easer' than child or baby pictures, your own baby being inconveniently unco-operative when it came to posing.... back-ground ad studio set ups too expensive/difficult to arrange, even for baby's or pets, so Pets in the Park... lets try flog snap-shots of peoples pets in the park.... 'cos it look 'easy' and don't cost nuffink to do!

Seriously, its like watching an accident running around looking for a place to happen,wondering whether a Guy-Fawkes night banger is as good as a hand-grenade, or whether to buy a shot-gun!

You will, I am sure, take only that advice that suits yor own ideas, right now, and you will continue to let your enthusiasm and GAS take you wherever that enthsasm drives... BUT!!!!!

Here and now? You have more kit in your mitt, in an entry level DSLR and twin kit-lenses, than most photographers could ever aspire to in years past, when a camera usually had a single fixed, and fixed focal lenth lens, and they HAD to be a little more disciplined; find the genre that interested them, and practice practice practice to master it with the kit they had... NOT flitting from genre to genre, expecting the kit to do all the work... and other people to subsidies or pay for their play!

I would say, IF you have to spend money on anything photo-related here and now and find vent for your new found photo-enthusiasm... go find a photo-course at a local college of FE... Show the discipline of turning up every Tuesday night or whatever, do what you are TOLD not what you PLEASE, with the gear you got.. and the accessories college will likely supply.

Get some basics learned; sample some different genres in the assignments set by the tutor, and explore some of the possibilities in photography.. NOT the gadgets!

Reel in the ambition some, find vent for the enthusiasm, and learn a heck of a lot along the way, BEFORE you buy so much gear to stick on top of the wardrobe, for your baby to e-bay when they shuffle you off to a home, after you have completely lost the plot and your enthusiasm findng so much you CANT do, rather than something you CAN let alone the thing you, note, YOU not your camera or your lenses or your gadgets, can do 'well'.

NOT, I suspect the advice you hope for or want, and probably even less appreciate... BUT stands just the same.

If you wish to ignore it... carry on, but both! the DX35 is a fantastic lens, I'm sure you will be wowed by the shallow focus it can delver. The Tokina UWA is a great bit of kit, again, I am sure you will be impressed by the big skies it can cram in the frame.. neither is a bad lens, but here and now, I really think either is a bad choice... I really don't think may actually 'help' you to achieve very much right now, just feed the GAS, the flutter-bye effect, and your errant pre-conceptions about 'the gear'.

Your call.
 
You refer to a 50mm DX lens twice. Which lens is that, a Nikon or a third party?
AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G... I think... has the AF motor in it
Pondered cheaper, older, faster, full manual 50, with DoF brackets, like my Ziess, but in F-Mount, but D3xxx range don't meter through non-electric lenses, and was mostly for class-room work. She already had 58mm Helios, on Zenit film camera or my M42 primes she could use on adapter, if she wanted to faff out-side the class-room.
She'd actually taken a very big liking to my spare Olympus XA2 film compact, with its 35mm lens, and I had been inclined towards hunting out something in the 24mm region to suit her EPM to approximate to that, as she so appreciated prime's; but not so common or affordable and/or back to full manual and no meter. She picked the 50 mainly because of the portraiture module of school course, and I assume the oft reported 'legend' of a nifty-fifty... I eventually repatriated my XA since she went to uni.... lol! (Just the cable for the EPM to find now! I don't hold out too much hope!)
 
Really? I thought it was optimized for APS-C sensor coverage, like the 35mm.
I thought it was the body-driven 50 that was optimized for full-frame coverage, legacy of the last-of-the-line AF film SLR's.
Hey-ho.. so she may be able to make use of it if she ever upgrades to full-frame EPM... at last mutter she was enthusing about, I 'think', an FM donated by Grandad..
 
Really? I thought it was optimized for APS-C sensor coverage, like the 35mm.
I thought it was the body-driven 50 that was optimized for full-frame coverage, legacy of the last-of-the-line AF film SLR's.
Hey-ho.. so she may be able to make use of it if she ever upgrades to full-frame EPM... at last mutter she was enthusing about, I 'think', an FM donated by Grandad..

The 35mm DX has viewing angle 44 degrees.
The 50mm FX has viewing angle 46 degrees on FX but only 31.5 on DX.

I was surprised when I figured out that the 35mm on a crop camera was give or take the same as a 50mm on a full frame. Anyway, the 50mm FX may be just borderline for human portraits and keeping noses at a reasonably correct proportion. I think he will suffer with dogs as he will be too near (they do have a long nose etc) but if he is too near he will destruct them too much and he has a good change of getting his lens well cleaned licked. Given he wants a lens, we could even suggest a macro lens, a longer lens or either of the two he is looking at, we might as well toss a coin for what he needs.
 
It's not so much about the viewing angle, though, is it? It's about the performance drop off beyond the edges of the sensor it's optimized for.
A 35mm lens gives 43Deg FoV on 16x24mm 'crop' sensor. 64Deg FoV, on 24x36 'full-fame'
A lens optimized for Full-Frame, should be crisp and show few optcal aberrations across the entire frame. Used on a crop-sensor camera, the angle of view is reduced simply by the smaller sensor only taking the center of the image circle, and cropping off the edges, which would tend to flatter the lens performance, as that's where any likely edge aberrations are more likely to be seen.
Going the other way around, using a DX optimized lens on an FX camera, with larger sensor, it's possible to get vignetting towards the corners and much more pronounced edge aberrations appear in the photo, as the sensor is looking at a region of the projected mage circle the lens engineers didn't expect the lens to have to deliver any image, let alone any image quality.

The 135 was probably the more common 'portrait' lens for 35mm.. Crop sensor equivalent would be approx 90mm, which is 'around' what many considered the 'better' length for a portrait lens on 35mm.. its crop equiv about 60mm or so.... so yeah, the 50 on crop probably is a 'tad' short for the job... but then crop-sensor or even full-frame widgetal, probably isn't the 'ideal' set up anyway, given old-skool studio photographers preference for Medium or even large format cameras for the job. Always comes down to which way you cut the compromise.

As for the noses? Rather depends on the dog, I guess... or even the person! Lol! While I don't know of a lens long enough to dodge a drool-shower from some of the creatures! I'd say the hubble telescope, but I was 'greeted' by a neighbors boxer the other day! Very friendly mutt, but I suspect that they probably have to clean the international space station after he's shaken himself! It was rather like being ravished by the slimer pet from Ghost-Busters! I'd add a Lol! but I'm not sure ts that funny, unless you were watching!
 
To try and clarify. I want to add another lens to my collection, I know the wide angle lens will give me a wider scope for astrophotography and with it been 2.8 It will be slightly improved over my kit lens in lower light. I know the 35mm has the 1.8 which will help background separation more and will be ideal for portraits and tighter shots with it having near the equivalent of a 50mm with my crop.

If you guys personally were starting off. What would be more useful to have in your bag and carry around... The 35mm 1.8 or the more expensive wide angle zoom lens.
That question would have a different answer from each one if us.

What I’d add would be what I needed to achieve what I wanted.

The 35mm isn’t the best for separation, and it’s certainly not a classic ‘portrait’ lens, on your camera it’s a simple ‘standard’ lens, a portrait lens would ideally be 60mm or more, if that’s your aim, the next lens you need is the 85mm (my favoured portrait lens on crop) .

The Tokina wide angle is lovely, great for astrophotography, and even some ‘interesting’ dog portraits, but would never be my first choice of lens.

And if what you want is a ‘better’ lens, then a Sigma 17-35 or the any std 2.8 17-50 ish
 
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