2nd completely blank B&W film

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Really annoying me now as I am sure there were a good few shots on this roll. The last two I have home developed have been completely blank. I haven't done anything different from what I can gather. Change back to put onto spool, mixed the developer and developed for the correct time, same with the fixer. Film is completely blank, absolutely nothing. The fixer was quite pink though when it came out I noticed, not sure if that has anything to do with it. Pretty sure it isn't a camera problem as nothing has changed from what I can see. Anyone any suggestions please?
 
Was the developer fresh?
 
Can I assume the film has no edge markings visible at all? If so I'm fairly sure that means it hasn't developed, from what I recall of the advice when this happened to me.
 
robhooley167 said:
Was the developer fresh?
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Yes, and fresh fixer too. Searching on the line suggests my chemicals may have gone off though? Possibly more likely the fixer? There are no edge marks on the film either.
 
If the fixer were expired it would not remove anything and the film would be opaque.

This sounds like ruined developer to me, that's the only logical result I can think of.
 
robhooley167 said:
If the fixer were expired it would not remove anything and the film would be opaque.

This sounds like ruined developer to me, that's the only logical result I can think of.
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Yeah from what I can read on the line it seems so. This is my first time at this, please tell me, should I keep the unused developer in one of those concertina bottles to remove all the air?
 
Are you sure you are using the right chemicals? ie, have you mixed up the containers and are using fixer first and then developer?
 
kendo1 said:
Are you sure you are using the right chemicals? ie, have you mixed up the containers and are using fixer first and then developer?
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Definitely using the right ones. Mixed the Developer and used straight away so no mixing them up. :)
 
You could yes, or you could use a normal bottle but use glass marbles to displace enough volume to force the air out. Either way will work.

If you aren't developing much, it may be best to look into using Tetenal Neofin Blue, it comes in small sealed bottles with enough chemicals in to do a small batch of films.
I personally use Rodinal, I'v had the same bottle for over a year and a half and it's been stored in a normal bottle with no marbles, sure it looks a bit funky now but I give it a shake before developing and it works fine. Might be worth looking in to.
 
robhooley167 said:
You could yes, or you could use a normal bottle but use glass marbles to displace enough volume to force the air out. Either way will work.

If you aren't developing much, it may be best to look into using Tetenal Neofin Blue, it comes in small sealed bottles with enough chemicals in to do a small batch of films.
I personally use Rodinal, I'v had the same bottle for over a year and a half and it's been stored in a normal bottle with no marbles, sure it looks a bit funky now but I give it a shake before developing and it works fine. Might be worth looking in to.
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Ah ok, thank you. I have one of the sqishy bottles so will use that. Yes I don't develop often enough really. Just one 120 film at a time. Determined to shoot more though.
 
gazmorton2000 said:
Yeah from what I can read on the line it seems so. This is my first time at this, please tell me, should I keep the unused developer in one of those concertina bottles to remove all the air?
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How much developer are you making up and which developer is it? I have wasted so much developer over the years by not using it up quickly enough that I settled on Rodinal, since the concentrate lasts for years when open and you use it diluted as a one-shot developer. Other than that, I asked my local pharmacy to sell me some brown glass bottles in 250ml and 100ml so that I can make up 1 litre of D76 and split it into amounts which will totally fill the glass bottles to the top. Might be worth asking?
 
Better luck next time with fresh chemicals :)
 
Peter B said:
How much developer are you making up and which developer is it? I have wasted so much developer over the years by not using it up quickly enough that I settled on Rodinal, since the concentrate lasts for years when open and you use it diluted as a one-shot developer. Other than that, I asked my local pharmacy to sell me some brown glass bottles in 250ml and 100ml so that I can make up 1 litre of D76 and split it into amounts which will totally fill the glass bottles to the top. Might be worth asking?
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Using Ilfosol 3. The first couple of rolls were spot on though. Yes, I am mixing 500ml up when needed.

kendo1 said:
Better luck next time with fresh chemicals :)
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Thank you. :)
 
RumpFace said:
Sounds like it's fixed but not devved. Driver error.
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Thing is, I did nothing different to the last few times. Will try again with new chemicals next time I have shot a roll.
 
I'd try another camera body to rule out faults with that if you've used the same one for both blank rolls.
 
srichards said:
I'd try another camera body to rule out faults with that if you've used the same one for both blank rolls.
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You'd still see the leader and frame numbers if it were a camera problem. This is just a developing issue.
 
Is it possible to have not actually exposed the film at all?? .......to have loaded it incorrectly where the film never left the film canister, hence not exposed, or to have got films mixed up and developed a "new" unexposed film accidently??
 
Asha said:
Is it possible to have not actually exposed the film at all?? .......to have loaded it incorrectly where the film never left the film canister, hence not exposed, or to have got films mixed up and developed a "new" unexposed film accidently??
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Food for thought. Was the film clear or black ?
 
No I don't think so as it says 'exposed' on it. It was completely blank which from looking I the line and people here seems to suggest bad developing. Picking up some new chemicals tomorrow then will try again.
 
35mm or 120? Can you upload an image or a scan? I'd like to see if you have anything on the film, no edge markings? Unused but processed film still had the numbers on, they're pre exposed on.
 
trevorbray said:
Food for thought. Was the film clear or black ?
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Trevor asks an important question but back to basics question, that should have been asked first.

  • Was the film completely translucent, as if the emulsion was totally dissolved away, leaving a translucent clear film? If so, then you developed and fixed it ok - the problem is that it was never exposed to light in the camera. Either it never left the cassette, or the shutter never opened, or (I did this once), possible in some 120 roll film cameras, the roll was fitted the wrong way around, and the paper backing was exposed instead of the emulsions on the film.
  • Was the film a matt or creamy grey? If so, it has been totally fogged by being exposed to light out of the camera, and has not been developed / fixed.
  • Was the film firmly black and not translucent across? In which case it was fogged by being exposed to broad light, out of the camera, and was then developed and fixed.
 
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ancient_mariner said:
Regardless you would still see the edge markings unless the camera body was opened at intervals while shooting.
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That's what I was led to believe re the edge markings, which would point to bad developing?

RumpFace said:
35mm or 120? Can you upload an image or a scan? I'd like to see if you have anything on the film, no edge markings? Unused but processed film still had the numbers on, they're pre exposed on.
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No point in posting or scanning anything. It is a completely transparent long piece of film with nothing on it whatsoever.

XA2inmypocket said:
Trevor asks an important question but back to basics question, that should have been asked first.

  • Was the film completely translucent, as if the emulsion was totally dissolved away, leaving a translucent clear film? If so, then you developed and fixed it ok - the problem is that it was never exposed to light in the camera. Either it never left the cassette, or the shutter never opened, or (I did this once), possible in some 120 roll film cameras, the roll was fitted the wrong way around, and the paper backing was exposed instead of the emulsions on the film.
  • Was the film a matt or creamy grey? If so, it has been totally fogged by being exposed to light out of the camera, and has not been developed / fixed.
  • Was the film firmly black and not translucent across? In which case it was fogged by being exposed to broad light, out of the camera, and was then developed and fixed.
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Yes, completely translucent. It was definitely fitted the right way round. You line the arrows up when first advancing the film.
 
Before potentially wasting another roll of film and time developing, perhaps check the camera before loading with film to ensure the shutter is actually opening at all speeds .. I'm not sure what camera you are using but if you open thé back and fire the shutter you will be able to see wether all is functioning ok.
If there is a shutter fault and it hasn't been opening then naturally you will end up with a blank film.
 
Yep, that confirms it, your developer hasn't worked.
 
As you have the edge markings it sounds like you could have developed a roll of unused film. However, the fact that your second film has become clearer than your first, It's likely that your developer has become exhausted.
 
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That clarifies things then. In this case you have definitely 'fixed' the film before 'development'

If you are using two similar containers could I suggest marking them with green and red bands. Green for development (go) and Red for fix (stop). It's an easy mistake to make if you mark the containers up like this there is less chance of an error.
 
Blank_Canvas said:
That clarifies things then. In this case you have definitely 'fixed' the film before 'development'

If you are using two similar containers could I suggest marking them with green and red bands. Green for development (go) and Red for fix (stop). It's an easy mistake to make if you mark the containers up like this there is less chance of an error.
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I've definitely not done that. I mixed the developer up as I needed it and definitely used it first. They are also completely different colours so there's no way I have fixed it first.
 
You line the arrows up when first advancing the film.
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Still possible to load it backwards..in a removable back.
 
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Strange that's the most likely explanation. Contamination is another possibility. We may never know.

The safest thing to do is to start again with a brand new batch of both Developer and Fixer. It is very difficult to comment further without seeing the negative, even though you state it's clear.

Good luck with your endeavours and let us know how you get on.
 
Strange that's the most likely explanation. Contamination is another possibility. We may never know.

The safest thing to do is to start again with a brand new batch of both Developer and Fixer. It is very difficult to comment further without seeing the negative, even though you state it's clear.

Good luck with your endeavours and let us know how you get on.
 
Can't multi quite as I'm on the phone and unsure how!

Trevor, I'm pretty sure I've loaded it correctly. Even checked on a YouTube video to make sure. I've shot quite a few rolls now and the last two colour ones have been fine (lab developed). Plus if I had loaded wrong and developed correctly, there would be edge markings I understand?

I've now binned all the chemicals and am going to get some fresh today. I have just loaded a roll of HP5 so will try and finish it by weekend.
 
Even with very old, expired developer, I would expect to see at least a faint image of the edge markings.


Steve.
 
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