10 stop ND filter, circular or square?

Peter69

Peter69

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I'd live without one, personally. All they mostly do is blur stuff meaninglessly, in a 'painting-by-numbers' way, if that means anything. The word 'formulaic' comes to mind.
 
droj said:
I'd live without one, personally. All they mostly do is blur stuff meaninglessly, in a 'painting-by-numbers' way, if that means anything. The word 'formulaic' comes to mind.
Click to expand...

Disclaimer: This opinion should not be considered as being definitive. Other opinions are available.
 
I can recommend the Hoya Pro ND1000. Due to a couple of lens changes in the last year I've tried a few, including the Tiffen you linked to, and the Hoya is the closest to neutral in colour. The Tiffen had an orange/yellow cast, and the Hitech square filters were so far off to the blue side they were unusable for colour shots.
 
I bought a screw on type and used it once..Gave it to a mate as I all good faith I couldn't sell it him.

You set up the focus etc then screw on the filter.....Trying not to change focus....Then unscrew it again as you did change focus....Then screw it back on. Rinse and repeat.

Obviously results may vary for different individuals.
 
mattyg said:
I bought a screw on type and used it once..Gave it to a mate as I all good faith I couldn't sell it him.

You set up the focus etc then screw on the filter.....Trying not to change focus....Then unscrew it again as you did change focus....Then screw it back on. Rinse and repeat.

Obviously results may vary for different individuals.
Click to expand...

Good point Matt, I didn't think of that.

I just tried with my UV filter though. Camera on tripod, lens in manual (on lens & in camera), I focused in live view then clicked lens (only) to AF. I could screw the UV filter on with out upsetting focus.

I wonder if anyone else has had this problem??
 
I think some lenses are more sensitive than others.
I think some users are less heavy handed than others

I MAY have a bit of both
 
I see a need for a circular spring clip filter i.e. just thread on 2 sprung loaded sides. Now where's my 3d printer
 
I also have an ND1000 and it works for me.

I have had a few frustrating minutes now and then, trying to get the filter screwed on without moving everything, but usually the issue is not getting it threaded correctly, rather than moving the focus.

With a bit of experimentation, I've found it much easier to add the filter when there is a lens cap on it, which also helps avoid fingerprints.
 
I've got a couple of NISI ND1000 Screw in Filters. They are really good - very neutral, coated, optical glass. Very slim, so avoid any vignetting problems. As for focussing - I just use live view. Given you are tripod mounted doing long exposures, the fact that focussing is a tad slower is a non issue. That said, I do find composition a pain with live view when it's sunny, and thus have now bought a square system filter as well, which I've yet to try. It's an optical glass big stopper by NISI. Quite expensive, but if it's as neutral as their circular filters, I'll be very happy.
 
Also consider Camdiox filters as well

There is an excellent thread about them HERE
 
i use a screw on 77mm hoya filter, had no probs, i think a square filter is just that bit more hassle and as long as you don't have to buy loads of different size screw ons (all the lenses i use it on are 77mm thread) then it'll save you money in the long run too.
 
I use the Haida 77mm 10 stop screw in filter, no color cast and check out the price, great value.
 
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I carry a circular 10 stopper from SRB in my bag all the time in case something catches my eye that needs it. If I go out with a definite shot in mind then I put my Lee kit in the bag. I've never had a problem with composing and focussing then screwing the filter on. I do slide the switch from auto to manual on the lens after focussing (17-40L & 24-105L)
 
I've used screw on 10 stop filters for years with none of the 'usual' issues.

They are usually used with a wide angle for landscapes so at > f/11 I just use hyperfocal & don't bother focusing anyway.
You can compose with live view.
I use back button focus so don't even need to keep switching the lens for AF to MF - Which you wouldn't anyway if using hyperfocal - to fire the shutter.
 
I use a square 10 stop, I can also use at the same time ND Grad filters and a polariser if need be.
 
Square filters are often more expensive but are a lot easier to use as its almost impossible to focus when the screw in filters are on. I brought a haida mk2 77mm slim as it was £28 but if I had the money id have brought a big stopper
 
Another vote for the Camidox one. No manky colour cast and much much cheaper than other options.
 
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