Recent content by tigger6

Hm. Can't think of anything besides the RB67..

What camera are you using it on? On a FF camera you might need to look for a thin profile filter not to vignette on the wide end.

You can make a large snoot from a thin box or alternatively shoot in a large room. In a smaller room with white walls, you will get a lot of spill that will lower the contrast.

I have 2 receivers and one transmitter. Note that they are useless for cameras which can't control smart flashes. Unlike "dumber" triggers it seems to be impossible to set the flashes up through their own interface and only fire them with the trigger. That means that I can use the kings with a...

I have a similar range of lenses and would take only the 24-105 if weight challenged.

Also, one thing to consider if you develop your own film. Some cameras (i.e. my 1v) can rewind film so that a bit is sticking out of the canister. This is very nice if you are loading the film in a changing bag as you don't need to either try to get the leader out or open the canister and have...

EOS 1v and EOS3 are the last pro bodies. The EOS1v roughly equivalent to the F5 and the 3 to the F100, more or less. Note that the 1v is bigger and heavier than your 5D, while the 3 would be a bit lighter.

Yeah, I have a EOS 1v which is probably a similar camera and quite massive. If you don't depend on the auto-focus and bells&whistles, I'd look for a older and smaller body.

I'm confused. What is preventing you from turning the spool and winding it back on?

Looks like the film could have been exposed to heat/pressure?

You simply divide the amount of light. If you want to do X exposures, you need that each gives you 1/X amount of light to get a properly exposed negative. Therefore you for instance multiply the shutter speed by X.

I have a cactus V4 trigger and this works just fine with my 500c/m, syncs up to 1/500th without problems. I also got a couple of pixel kings, but those don't work at all, as they need a "smart" camera like the 5dm2. Quite a shame, I hoped they would at least transmit the simple "fire" command.

Get a large, heavy duty paper cutter and mark your usual sizes on the board. Then you just fit one side on the board and cut off the remainder (which, if smaller than a half, can be used for proofs for instance).

Yes, but he still has some choice.. a Yashica 124G? Maybe a 6x4.5 SLR? Bronica, Mamiya? Or a Pentacon SIX? Hard to tell what's best if we don't know the purpose and preferences. Should it have separate backs? SLR? More lenses or a fixed 80?...

Well, if rodinal and ilfosol are the only things, I suppose you have to go for ilfosol :)