Recent content by Jonhob

With your shutter speed being so high (1\800th or higher) IS will be pointless. I try to shoot at 1\1250 and never use stabilisation.

I haven't seen any yet. Dare I say it, I guessed this would happen. Apple launch their new computers eliminating the 'older' USB 3.0 port infavor of USB C but there's pariferals. I would think it's an adapter and a USB 3.0 reader for the time being.

The 400mm f2.8 VR2 is your answer, at £6k+. You cod look at the Nikon 200-400mm f4 VR MK2 at £5k ish or a 300mm f2.8 VR MK2 + 1.4x. What are you using it for? What camera is is going on! What is the lighting like?

Simply put.... No!

One thing to think about... Canon had an issue with the sensor in the 7D not fitting flush and 'could' be throwing the focus out. Looking at the sensor will not show the potential problem if indeed yours suffers from this problem. My other half had a 7D and it had this issue BIG time so we...

I'm 99.9% sure they only badge their cards so being confident of a high quality and reliable product is very difficult. Also there is no guarantee the controller chip in the SDHC is of a reputable manufacturer. I shoot sport inc Premiership football I would not trust any card except Sandisk...

I think there are two key things to consider here and both have been covered. Body. You will need a much faster body and the obvious choice is a 7D. Yes, you can get a used one but it may well have been 'well used' if you know what I mean? I'd start off with a new one if your budget allows...

IMHO is be VERY surprised if you find a Nikon version in anything other than rough condition or a very old model. You might find a sigma around that price, tele converter will be extra too. I might be selling my VR mk1 version but will be looking at way over £2.5k for that!

Have you tried any image recovery software? The ONLY cards I trust are Sandisk Extreme Pros. I use two in my D3S and one in each of my two D700s they are fast and reliable. I'm sure Transend are a good make but only trust Sandisk.

If you send your lens off to Canon for calibrating they will set it to 'factory settings' which may not be correct for your camera body. What lens and body are you using? I would look at calibrating your body to the lens.

With newer bodies front/back focusing shouldn't be an issue to sort. I'm sure we all want our lenses 100% spot on but that's why bodies are equipped to sort this sort of thing.

It seems Sigma are aiming to take a big chunk of the Pro market head on. The build of their new lenses, and I'm sure the new 24-70 f2 will be no exception, seems to be way ahead of their competition. I have used the out going 120-300 f2.8 OS on a D3s and D700 and I was very impressed with it...

Canon have been working on high MP sensors for years! I was told by a Canon representative that a 50MP was being tested some 5 years ago so it's only natural that the 'trade' will all be working on something that's leaps ahead in terms of pixel count as this always stimulates sales. I don't...

IMHO you'd be better off with a dye sub which doesn't involve inks. They are much cheaper to run but of cause more expensive to buy. Renting may be an option.

I make sure mine is tight but ever over tight.