Recent content by GardenersHelper

Thanks Chris. A lot of WOW factor in the images you guys have picked for this thread. Excellent. Thanks too to Paul (@Paul Iddon) for his enthusiasm and dedication in keeping the macro forum ticking over nicely and being a constant encouragement for other people to join in.

That is the method I use when I have very noisy backgrounds in my close-up/macro images. As explained in this video I made a couple of years ago I use a slightly different approach, which is quicker than the one shown in the video you linked to. In the video he had Auto Mask turned on for both...

That sounds like the sort of thing I would do, with one of my two main types of subject, and it sounds like the sort of conclusion I would have come to, which is why I don't use my bridge cameras much for botanical imaging (unlike for invertebrates, for which I almost always use a bridge...

Thinking of weight, I wonder what magnification you would get with extension tubes and a Raynox on your 60mm EF-S? I get around 6.5mm with 60mm extension tubes and a Raynox 250 on my Sigma 105 macro and about 3.5mm with the Raynox MSN-202 and extension tubes. That's horribly heavy because of the...

With a Raynox 250 on a 55-250 on my APS-C 70D I get a minimum scene width of around 12mm, which is around 2:1. 5:1 would be a scene width of around 4.5mm. With two 250s stacked I get down to about 6mm. With a Raynox MSN-202 I get a minimum scene width of around 4mm. The working distance is...

I agree entirely with this. So just a couple of side comments on some details in what follows. Some smartphone cameras use 1/2.3" sensors. Many bridge cameras use 1/2.3" sensors, and a number of them go beyond 100mm - that is 100mm absolute, not equivalent. For example the Panasonic FZ330 goes...

Very true. I initially had a 55-250 IS II and autofocus was poor with a weak close-up lens and wouldn't work at all with the Raynox 250 and more powerful close-up lenses. Autofocus works (with limitations, see previous post) with the Raynox 250 and stronger with my 55-250 IS STM.

Yes. But bear in mind that with a camera lens that extends as you zoom, like the 55-250 STM, as you change the focal length/magnification/framing you may need to move the camera to get the working distance back into the zone where you can gain focus. This becomes more of an issue with more...

Isn't this because the two images are not of the same scene? (The larger sensor is covering a much wider angle of view).

I find it more useful (for my purposes) to consider the situation when the angle of view is the same for two different sensor sizes (I want to match the DoF for a particular scene). For example, let's consider a 60mm lens on micro four thirds (MFT) versus a bridge camera with a 1/2.3" sensor...

I'll assume they are using the same aperture, say f/8, and that the subject is 5m away. The DoF for a small sensor camera with a 1/2.3" sensor will be around 0.22m. the DoF for a 1.6x crop factor camera will be around 0.79m. 02 small sensor dof by gardenersassistant, on Flickr 01 1.6x dof by...

Some people capture images for stacking hand-held out in the field with live invertebrate subjects, so you don't have to use a tripod. That said, if your subject is in a suitable position (where you can reach with the tripod) and stays there long enough (not a problem with flowers of course)...

The Raynox 250 is a +8 diopter close-up lens, so when the camera lens is focused at infinity the working distance is around 1000mm / 8 = 125mm. This is the maximum working distance. The working distance decreases as you focus closer. The Raynox 150 is a +4.8 diopter close-up lens with a maximum...

Indeed so, it's up to you if you upgrade or not. As long as you are content with the facilities of LR6 you can carry on using it after LR7, LR8 etc are released. (Actually, some people wonder if there will ever be an LR7, or whether Adobe will simply carry on with upgrading LR CC and let LR...

No. There are no local adjustments in DXO.