Recent content by bernieraffe

Thanks guys, glad you enjoyed it. Nice to meet you all, maybe see you next time! Cheers, Bernie

As previous poster said, expose for the background using either manual exposure or on auto (A / S/ or P - Nikon ) (AV / TV / P - Canon). The problem with doing that is your dog is now going to be too dark so you will have to to light him separately, so use a flash and keep the dog as far away...

I also use focus and re-compose most of the time, but as previously stated, it can fail when shooting something close with a very shallow depth of field. Also, if the subject is fairly stationary and the subject is off centre and you're taking several photos, it can be pretty tiresome to...

Be aware though that your 18-55mm lens will become a 50-150mm (approx) when used with the Nikon V1

Another tip is to keep your ISO set to about 800, this brings in more of the ambient light and avoids the 'shot in a cave' look that you often get when using flash. Obviously you'll have a little more noise, but in my opinion the better overall quality of background light usually outweighs...

Take a look at the online photography courses at Udemy, there are several different photography courses, each one has multiple videos (which Udemy call 'lectures') http://www.udemy.com Select the 'Arts' category to find the photography courses.

Reading between the lines of the original poster, do you really think she has an exposure meter and knows what an incident reading is? She may do I don't know, but my guess is that if she does, she wouldn't have needed to ask the question in the first place!!

Nobody, but that's what will happen if you don't shoot in the M mode or use exposure lock (neither of which has been mentioned). I'm really just trying to help the original poster, it may not have occurred to him when reading the previous posts that once he's got a good exposure, generally...

I'm an ex-wedding photographer,and my approach would be different from most of those posted here. Your question seem to relate to taking photos during the ceremony. It's highly unlikely that the light will change during this time (although obviously it could happen), and also the bride and...

That's correct, but lowering the shutter speed starts taking you into the realm of 'dragging the shutter' whereby anything or anybody lit with the ambient light starts to show movement. This can be a great trick for those occasional party and dance type photos with a sharpish and blurred subject...

Whenever I take flash photos indoors at a party I generally use the following settings:- F4 60th Sec ISO 800 Upping the ISO makes a huge difference as it brings in the ambient light of the room and you get more results like leftcurl's first pic rather than the middle pic where the subject...

Hi David, no I don't use flash at all during the ceremony, only for the traditional signing of the register with bride and groom looking up. Most ministers will not allow flash during the ceremony, and in any case, unless you really knew what you were doing with flash it would destroy any...

Aah, the 1st dance, that's a different kettle of fish altogether! You've probably been looking at your high ISO images on your monitor, and of course you'll see all the noise. Try printing them and you could get a nice surprise, the noise doesn't show anywhere near as much. As I said...

I agree with the previous poster, there is no need to use any auto metering mode, consider using manual in future, as once you have the correct exposure, you're then set, the light doesn't change very often inside a church. As an ex-wedding photographer I don't recall ever photographing...

Hi David, I'm a pro photographer and photographed about 100 weddings. The secret is in the planning, you must be well-prepared and always keep in mind what you need to do next, so you're ready. Before the bride enters with her dad, take some shots from the front of the groom waiting all...