I was with Zenfolio for a number of years until they recently increased my subscription and took the money out of my bank without first asking or letting me know. When I queried it with them, they just said it was a change of policy, no real apology or explanation. That made me start looking around and I downloaded the Smugmug FREE trial to see what it was like. I think it's 14 days you get. As soon as I told Zenfolio I wanted my money back, they took my site offline within minutes leaving me with little or no chance to copy the website I had on there.
Can't praise Smugmug enough. The set up was relatively simple to use and whenever I had a problem I contacted Smugmug and someone got back to me back very quickly, either telling me how to sort the problem out or offering to do it for me. As I prefer to try and do things on my own, I followed what they had explained which was always in simple, easy to follow steps. For me, there's nothing worse for me than getting help from someone who uses a programme or system daily and just says do this and this and this and expects you to get on with it.
Smugmug also have a very good forum where there's always someone ready to help or advise you which way to go. The only "downside" I have noticed so far is not being able to use music with the opening slideshow I have but music on a website is not to everyone's taste anyway.