Wimberley Gimbal head seized solid onto a Gitzo systematic top plate

[fujilover]

Does anyone have any experience removing a seized solid Wimberly Gimbal head ( the older model, not the MK 2 model out now ) from a Gitzo systematic top plate ?

This was a common fault in the past I think because the MK 2 version of this Gimbal head has a hole in its side so that you can get a metal rod in there and then use a wrench to twist off stuck heads.

I know that I could get it off in a vice probably but there would be high very risk of damage I feel.

 

[Gav.]

I don't know the gear, sorry.

WD40 and tap with a rubber mallet may help.

Or

Strap wrench if you have one, failing that if you have a vice use some thick wood to make soft jaws inside the vice.

 

[fujilover]

I don't know the gear, sorry.

WD40 and tap with a rubber mallet may help.

Or

Strap wrench if you have one, failing that if you have a vice use some thick wood to make soft jaws inside the vice.

I tried an expensive WD-40 product especially made for freeing seized parts but i think the surfaces are so tightly mated that it cant penetrate at all

I will look into strap wrench though

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Searching for "Wimberly Gimbal head seized" with Google brings back several pages including videos.

 

[fujilover]

Searching for "Wimberly Gimbal head seized" with Google brings back several pages including videos.

Yeah for the MK 2 version

that has a simple solution, they designed it with a hole that you put an Allan key into and then use a wrench attached to the allan key so you have leverage to free it.

Link me to a single video of anyone freeing a seized MK 1 version like I have in the photograph

 

[John_L]

I don't know this equipment, but presumably the bottom friction control knob can be completely unscrewed, which might allow the central part of the bottom pivot to be withdrawn from the rest of the head.

Might this then afford better access for the administration of your releasing fluid? I.e around the base of the central screw/shaft (which probably shares the same threaded hole that the Gitzo plate screws into)? You could make a little pool of the fluid and let it soak overnight. You might even be able to unscrew the central screw/shaft and then be able to apply your fluid direct onto the Gitzo screw.

Other than that, a soft-jawed vice and a rubber mallet is probably the best way forward, but this will only be as effective as the bottom friction control knob will allow.

 

[sk66]

What often happens is a little bit of dissimilar metal corrosion develops. I would remove the tape and try putting it in the oven at a low heat (~120˚c) for an hour to heat soak it. The heating will hopefully cause the dissimilar metals to expand/contract differently and break/weaken the bond. Then mount it in the tripod and try to tap it off by hitting the upright (pan fully tightened)... it will slip a little with the impacts, but it might eventually jolt it loose.

Otherwise I think a replacement top plate might be the better/easier route. There are very nice third party plates available rather inexpensively, or used is often available. This is how I have my tripod setup... I use multiple top plates for easily swapping heads/column rather than any of those accessory clamp/plate setups that are available (and rather expensive).

I'm fairly certain you could drill through the very bottom flange and into the spool. That would allow you to lock them together with a rod in order to break the spool loose. But I'm not 100% certain. And it is also probable that will leave some rough edges/debris inside.

 

[fujilover]

What often happens is a little bit of dissimilar metal corrosion develops. I would remove the tape and try putting it in the oven at a low heat (~120˚c) for an hour to heat soak it. The heating will hopefully cause the dissimilar metals to expand/contract differently and break/weaken the bond. Then mount it in the tripod and try to tap it off by hitting the upright (pan fully tightened)... it will slip a little with the impacts, but it might eventually jolt it loose.

Otherwise I think a replacement top plate might be the better/easier route. There are very nice third party plates available rather inexpensively, or used is often available. This is how I have my tripod setup... I use multiple top plates for easily swapping heads/column rather than any of those accessory clamp/plate setups that are available (and rather expensive).

I'm fairly certain you could drill through the very bottom flange and into the spool. That would allow you to lock them together with a rod in order to break the spool loose. But I'm not 100% certain. And it is also probable that will leave some rough edges/debris inside.

Thanks, can you suggest any third part plates that are good. I think i might go down that route to avoid damaging the Gimbal.

The tripod is a Series 4

 

[sk66]

Thanks, can you suggest any third part plates that are good. I think i might go down that route to avoid damaging the Gimbal.

The tripod is a Series 4

It's been a while since I've owned a Gitzo. The top plates are fairly universal and simple/generic... at the low end there is Desmond/Fittest/Haoge; but I'm only seeing series 5 compatible readily available. Midrange there is Benro and LeoFoto... this Leofoto is specified as compatible.

You are looking for a 75mm plate with a 70mm clamping surface... and probably one with the groove if your Gitzo isn't a series 1 or 2. You do not want the 85/80mm series 5 compatible. If you want stiffness then you want an all metal top plate, if you want damping then you want a top plate with the plastic/rubber face... personally I would probably go with whatever is cheapest.