Wide angle lens for interiors

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smountifield

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Hi folks

I own a Canon 6D, am slowly getting back into photography, having sold all my kit years back as I lost interest... I mainly shot for fun and just enjoyed taking pictures... I want to get more into architectural and interior photography and I am wondering about which lens to go for... I am not a 'beginner' but by no means an expert... I understand about shutter speed and aperture values (well I thought) so I apologise if this is a stupid question...

I am interesed in the Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8L... for my interior stuff, however, my potentially 'stupid' question is how do you achieve maximum focus throughout the shot, and sharpness, with an lens that has a perm f stop designed to generate maximum depth of field... ?

Am I being thick?!??!?!?

:puke::cautious::(

Feeling stupid already in anticipation for the responses...

Thx all
 
F2.8 is the maximum aperture throughout the range. It is not a fixed Aperture. Just stop the lens down to f16 or f22 for maximum depth of field.

The 16-35 also comes in a f4 version which will be considerably cheaper and is a great lens.
 
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ecoleman said:
F2.8 is the maximum aperture throughout the range. It is not a fixed Aperture. Just stop the lens down to f16 or f22 for maximum depth of field.

The 16-35 also comes in a f4 version which will be considerably cheaper and is a great lens.
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I told you I'd feel stupid... I took it as that it was a fixed aperture... Thx :facepalm::eggface:
 
I've a Sigma 10-20mm for my 40D which I've used for interior shots and it works a treat and you don't need F2.8 etc. A good tripod and the natural light available works a treat.

Another option for full frame over the 16-35 is the 17-40 lens ...
 
andyred said:
I've a Sigma 10-20mm for my 40D which I've used for interior shots and it works a treat and you don't need F2.8 etc. A good tripod and the natural light available works a treat.
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The Sigma 10-20mm wont work on the 6D as it is an EF-S mount rather than EF.
 
So would you suggest that f4 with IS is almost equivalent to f2.8 with no IS... for low light shooting that is?
 
Steve B said:
The Sigma 10-20mm wont work on the 6D as it is an EF-S mount rather than EF.
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andyred said:
Another option for full frame over the 16-35 is the 17-40 lens ...
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Yes, was just used as an example of what I've used and why I gave another option at the end of my post to the 16-35 OP was thinking about. :)
 
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smountifield said:
So would you suggest that f4 with IS is almost equivalent to f2.8 with no IS... for low light shooting that is?
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For the interior shots I took, it wasn't an issue using a tripod and having the time to take the shot, so my 3.5 - 5.6 lens was great (but as Steve highlighted, won't fit your body). What are you thinking of shooting ?
 
andyred said:
For the interior shots I took, it wasn't an issue using a tripod and having the time to take the shot, so my 3.5 - 5.6 lens was great (but as Steve highlighted, won't fit your body). What are you thinking of shooting ?
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My main interest is interior, and something I'd like to chance my arm at grabbing some freelance work in 2016... (as secondary income)... and seeing where it leads me... I am certainly one for buying the best my budget will allow, and I do like the idea of the fixed f2.8 as it opens up options for 'general' photography as well... However, I appreciate what you're saying about the tripod set up and not really needing to worry about the additional f stop to cater for low light... decisions decisions...
 
I used a 17-40 on my old 5Dii for interiors and it was fine f11-f16 most of the time. Much cheaper especially SH. If you intend to do interiors for money you will probably need at least two speedlights. I quite often had to use three or do HDR in big rooms with big windows as there is nothing worse than blown highlights of Windows. You also will need a tripod and shutter release though I didn't always use one.
 
smountifield said:
My main interest is interior, and something I'd like to chance my arm at grabbing some freelance work in 2016... (as secondary income)... and seeing where it leads me... I am certainly one for buying the best my budget will allow, and I do like the idea of the fixed f2.8 as it opens up options for 'general' photography as well... However, I appreciate what you're saying about the tripod set up and not really needing to worry about the additional f stop to cater for low light... decisions decisions...
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Aaaah well, you might not need it, but if you want it - then that's a whole different ball game :D

I'd have a serious think - you'd be better buying once and getting what you want / need, then getting something that will do the job perfectly, but isn't really what you want :)
 
I've done a little bit of interior shooting and I use a Sigma 12-24. Since the person I was doing the shots for wanted as much of the room as possible in shot, I was shooting at 12mm and with my back to the wall(s) so stability wasn't a real issue. They also wanted as much DoF as possible and the final use was relatively small files for the web so cranking up the ISO to 1600 on a D700 wasn't a problem WRT noise or diffraction softness at small aperture settings.

FWIW, IMO very wide apertures aren't as necessary on wide angle lenses since DoF is pretty massive at wide settings (angle not apertures) even at wide apertures. The high ISO/low noise capabilities of modern bodies along with their ability to achieve AF in near darkness makes the other benefit of wide apertures less important than it used to be!
 
First gen Sigma 12-24mm is suberb for interiors, zero distortion on verticals and super sharp from f/8 onwards, it does vignette quite badly wide open but you wouldnt be shooting wide open wuld you ???
 
You say you want to get into architecture and interiors.
I used to do both for an estate agent before I retired using a 40D and a sigma 10-20mm ( the old one) and a canon 580EX flash without many problems other than converging verticals which were fairly easily sorted in post.
These shots were not shining examples of the photographers art but they were sufficient for the purpose for which they were intended on a web site and printed on A4 flyers
You are looking at a Canon 16-35 f2.8 , for your purpose you will not need f2.8 ( but you might for other things) so as others have said look at the 17-40 f4 and add a decent flash if you don't have one.
Alternatively if you are prepared to spend £1000+ on the 16-35 then go for broke and spend the extra £350-400 on a 24 or 17mm TS-E and get the lens designed for the job, depends on how much you are going to get paid for the work!
 
If you are shooting interiors you will generally need something that goes to 16mm wide on a full frame body the minimum aperture is fairly irrelevant as you will normally be shooting around f/8 to f/11. Also IS is of little use as you will need to use a tripod all of the time. I don't normally use shift lenses on interiors unless they are large scale commercial interiors with very high ceilings.

Your best investment for interiors would be a decent tripod with a 3 way head and a wide angle lens that performs well around f/8 and has barrel distortion which is easy to correct, rather than moustache distortion which isn't. I would suggest you spent at least half as much on your tripod as you do your lens.
 
Just stop the lens down to f16 or f22 for maximum depth of field.
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Yes, this will increase the DoF but you will lose overall sharpness.
…minimum aperture is fairly irrelevant as you will normally be shooting around f/8 to f/11
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+1
I don't normally use shift lenses on interiors unless they are large scale commercial interiors with very high ceilings.
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I always use PC lenses in interior or exterior architecture subjects
 
Kodiak Qc said:
Yes, this will increase the DoF but you will lose overall sharpness.
+1
I always use PC lenses in interior or exterior architecture subjects
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You wont lose sharpness going to f/16 or f/22? Do you mean through diffraction? That won't effect a FF body so much.
 
odd jim said:
You wont lose sharpness going to f/16 or f/22? Do you mean through diffraction? That won't effect a FF body so much.
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The same laws of optical physics apply to any chip size.
One does not lose too much from ƒ8 to ƒ11 or ƒ8 to ƒ 5,6,
but more from ƒ11 to ƒ16 or ƒ 5,6 to ƒ4, and even more each
and every step over… if the sweet spot is at ƒ8 that is. That
why I really work with focus stacking!
 
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You can shoot at f/22 if you like unless you go pixel peeping in reality you are not really going to notice it. Recommend f/16, f/11 100 / 200 ISO, tripod, cable release. Possibly fill-in-flash and you'll be fine. Use small apertures for corner-to-corner sharpness for architecture. Don't even think about shooting f/2.8 - f/5.6 so much of the detail will be out of focus and lead to disappointment. Hope this helps.
 
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