White background help please

[Marcus Geezer]

I'm for the first time using a white background and trying to get the lighting as good as I can before I even think about post processing.

I think I know the theory regarding blowing out the background so it just get flashing peaks when I chimp, and then with the background lights off set the levels fpor the subject and then off we go, whilst looking for things like light overspill etc. I think the test shots I've taken show that I can apply that.

What I am getting openly frustrated about is the un-even lighting on the train. Tried to take some pics of my 2 year old son sitting on the floor and the background behind his head and body seem ok, but it is dropping off where he is sitting to the point where it is almost grey.

Can anyone offer any tips on how I can minimise this before photoshop works its magic?

For reference kit is:

Canon 40D ISO 100 1/125 F8. 2 x 430EX on manual 1/4 power sat on floor pointing at background. 1 x 580EX II in softbox power 1/2 straight on and pointed down to subject.

And dont talk to me about creases. Or my black haired dog coming and sitting in the middle of the train when I aint looking. Or a son that isnt very co-operative! :bang:

Please help me climb my learning mountain!

 

[lawrie29]

up the power on one 430 aiming at the background then have the other to flood the train?

When I did some I just did headshots so avoided the issue!

 

[mhuk]

Have you looked at the seamless white tutorial by Zack Arias: http://www.zarias.com/?p=201 - very helpful.

 

[Marcus Geezer]

up the power on one 430 aiming at the background then have the other to flood the train?

When I did some I just did headshots so avoided the issue!

Its the area around the subject that is frustrating me. If I fired the flash at the subject area then I over expose the subjects lower part.

Have you looked at the seamless white tutorial by Zack Arias: http://www.zarias.com/?p=201 - very helpful.

So it looks like the only way I'm gonna achieve this is by photoshop?

No problem but was hoping to get it as right as possible in camera.

 

[HoppyUK]

Its the area around the subject that is frustrating me. If I fired the flash at the subject area then I over expose the subjects lower part.

So it looks like the only way I'm gonna achieve this is by photoshop?

No problem but was hoping to get it as right as possible in camera.

That's basically it. If you put enough light on the train, it is inevitable that you will simulaneously over exposure the subject. You can only do it with the background because you can light it completely separately, but unless your son can levitate, or you are able to light the train from underneath, in practise a little bit of grey mopping is needed.

Having said that, if you have a brilliant white train, and also assist that still further by getting your shooting angle so that you pick up maximum light reflected from the background off the surface of the train, then usually just a fraction of general overexposure (which often suits this style of shooting) will be enough to get the train white, or at least white enough to need minimal post processing.

Edit: Edinburgh Gary has done it with zero post processing, but he has spent ages building a custom studio, background and floor, with very carefully balanced lighting coupled to tweaking the in-camera processing - I'm guessing a shiny white floor, opimised angles, tweaked contrast and a smidge of over exposure, all balanced on a knife edge, has been enough to do it.

EG is very helpful with his advice - check out his recent posts.

 

[Marcus Geezer]

Thanks Hopppy. Fountain of knowledge as always.

I had the luxury this evening of having time to play with my setup and was taking time out to really scratch my head to see if there was any way to get in as right as possible, but if photoshop is the answer, then so be it.

I'll keep the reflective properties in mind as well. Thanks.

 

[HoppyUK]

Thanks Hopppy. Fountain of knowledge as always.

I had the luxury this evening of having time to play with my setup and was taking time out to really scratch my head to see if there was any way to get in as right as possible, but if photoshop is the answer, then so be it.

I'll keep the reflective properties in mind as well. Thanks.

You're welcome Marcus. Crossed post with my edit though. Check out Gary's posts, he's done a lot of work on this and it's good reading

 

[Marcus Geezer]

I will. Thanks.

 

[HoppyUK]

I will. Thanks.

I have this problem too - most of my portrait subjects are not head and shoulders - that's easy - but either standing, sitting or lying on the train, hence the difficulty.

I'm getting a Hilite delivered this week from FITP. I'm hoping that not only will this save me some valuable working space but will also allow me to get as close as possible to zero PP by optimising all these things with a tiny nudge and a push and a tweak here and there.

It's all very delicate. While it's easy enough to do just by over exposing and claiming this is all part of the look, that's just a bit sloppy and not what it should be about.

It's also comforting to bear in mind that when you get close to pure white, only the tinyest push is all that's needed to get it completely blown, and also, you need a little bit of shadow for the subject to 'stand' on if it's not to look like a cut-out of them floating in space.

E Gary uses a Hilite - well, a custom made one.