Which Flash - Help Please

WelshNoob

WelshNoob

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I recently borrowed my friends 480ex ii flash and it was really good. Didn't really know what I was doing with it but with my 60d I was able to set the flash to slave and fire it from the 60d. I now want a speedlite but would like a Yongnuo one because of the cost. Could someone point me in the direction of which Yongnuo's would work off camera from my 60d like the 480 did?

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi, thanks for that, I'd seen the 568's just wondered if there was a cheaper one that did the job aswell?
 
As long as you don't mind using manual, most that say they have an S1 and S2 mode should work fine off camera with you pop up flash from the 60d, I have a 560 III and it works fine off camera and on in manual mode, no ttl or hss though with the 560 version.

The 560 III has an inbuilt yongnuo receiver so if you ever want to trigger remotely they are compatible that way as well.
 
You can control the Canon 480ex ii settings from the camera menu. That's not possible with the Yongnuo 560 III...

Don't know, if you can that with others, but possible the TTL versions may though...


However, if you want to learn controlling a flash, I can't think of any better (price/value) than the Yongnuo 560 III.

Oh! And get a pair of RF-603 and a C-cable too! You can thank me later! :D
 
Jan K. said:
You can control the Canon 480ex ii settings from the camera menu. That's not possible with the Yongnuo 560 III...

Don't know, if you can that with others, but possible the TTL versions may though...


However, if you want to learn controlling a flash, I can't think of any better (price/value) than the Yongnuo 560 III.

Oh! And get a pair of RF-603 and a C-cable too! You can thank me later! :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Stupid question, just how important is TTL or is Manual quite easy to get on with? and with regards to the pair of RF-603's wont just the transmitter suffice as the flash has a built in receiver? And finally what's a C-Cable? :bonk:
 
TTL makes the flash a part of your metering system. When metering, a series of flashes are sent for measuring scene and when taking the shot, your camera will control your flash output... balancing it to the scene.
Probably not the most professional explanation :D but do a quick google!

As I always shoot in manual mode, TTL won't "help" me... and I find it's very easy to work in manual. Take the shot with flash and have a look. Too little flash? Turn it up and vice versa.

The recommended second RF-603 and cable is for remote controlling both flash and camera! If you only wish to remote control your flash, then one is enough.
You could even do without, as the flash has a S1 and S2 mode, where it's controlled by your on camera pop-up flash...

The C-cable is for connecting the RF-603 mounted in your hotshoe to your camera, if you want to remote control both by the second RF-603. Is of course only needed if you want everything remote controlled...
 
You can control the 565EX's power output from within your camera's menu system, and there's no need for any extra transmitter and its batteries etc.
 
TTL can be useful, I have the 560-3 and although I have gotten used to using manual, I still wish I had a flash that also did TTL.
 
WelshNoob said:
Thanks for the input. Stupid question, just how important is TTL or is Manual quite easy to get on with? and with regards to the pair of RF-603's wont just the transmitter suffice as the flash has a built in receiver? And finally what's a C-Cable? :bonk:
Click to expand...

TTL is a bit like an auto gearbox on a car, useful and capable up to a point, but most people prefer a manual gearchange, especially when it's muddy or snowy...

TTL will do the thinking for you and can be useful when the flash is mounted on the camera, but creative photographers don't normally use it very often.
 
The explanation that worked for me ( as a novice at this lark) was from Syl Arena's book. If your subject to light distance is dynamic, then TTL is your friend as it will sort out the flash power for you. If the flash to subject distance is fixed, then manual is more controllable. Hope that helps?
 
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