Which 10 stop?????

pastyman

pastyman

Suspended / Banned
Messages
1,288
Name
Darrin
Edit My Images
Yes
So I'm in the market for a 10 stop ND, but which one????

Do I go Lee Big Stopper, Hitech Firecrest, or do you have any other suggestions on one that wont give a major colour cast....

Cheers peeps
 
After going through a number of these, I now use the zomei ND10 filter which is actually rather good with minimal colour cast and more importantly very little loss in sharpness. It's also reasonable in cost.

I hear breakthrough filters are the best but they come at a price and not easy to source in this country. I aspire to getting one of these one day but zomei does just fine in the meantime
 
I bought some from SRB Photographic that I have been very happy with. Very little if any colour cast with the ones I have. :)

Btw, for the circular filters I have, ND and Polarisers, I use a Filter Stack Caps to keep different sizes protected and together. Nice and solid and protected. :)
 
Last edited:
The Lee 10 stop has an aweful colour cast that needs correcting in post or adjusting for with manual WB in camera. I speak from experience.

I had a loan of a Kase 10 stop, which was very impressive, not needing any colour correction
 
One alternative is to use multiple exposures, if you have this feature on your camera. I have tried this with my Canon 5D4 and it is effective in some cases. Unfortunately it is limited to up to nine exposure. So for example for a waterfall, I took 9 exposure at 1/20 s which it averages giving the appearance of a single exposure of about 1/2 second. The camera averages the images. As the 9 is rather limiting, you can take many more shots of the same exposure and average them in photoshop but say 50 full frame Raw images is a lot. One of the advantage there is no possibility of a colour cast with no filter. I would not suggest that this method displaces a stopper but can be useful for routine "long exposure" shots that do not need the stopper.

Dave
 
Dave Canon said:
One alternative is to use multiple exposures, if you have this feature on your camera. I have tried this with my Canon 5D4 and it is effective in some cases. Unfortunately it is limited to up to nine exposure. So for example for a waterfall, I took 9 exposure at 1/20 s which it averages giving the appearance of a single exposure of about 1/2 second. The camera averages the images. As the 9 is rather limiting, you can take many more shots of the same exposure and average them in photoshop but say 50 full frame Raw images is a lot. One of the advantage there is no possibility of a colour cast with no filter. I would not suggest that this method displaces a stopper but can be useful for routine "long exposure" shots that do not need the stopper.

Dave
Click to expand...
That's an interesting method, Dave...never thought of that. Have tried and given up with 10-stoppers because of the colour casts...
 
Would it not be difficult to replicate the smoothing effect on the sea. if you wanted that effect using multiple exposures?
I do use exposure bracketing with 7 or 9 images on sunsets and then merge them, quite like that approach, combined with a grad sometimes if the brights aren't too bright, but it then doesn't give a very sharp sea or a smooth one.
Is it better to stack in layers with 3 or 4 shots and reveal the sea that way:thinking:
 
pastyman said:
Would it not be difficult to replicate the smoothing effect on the sea. if you wanted that effect using multiple exposures?
I do use exposure bracketing with 7 or 9 images on sunsets and then merge them, quite like that approach, combined with a grad sometimes if the brights aren't too bright, but it then doesn't give a very sharp sea or a smooth one.
Is it better to stack in layers with 3 or 4 shots and reveal the sea that way:thinking:
Click to expand...

for a basic guide 2 photos will give you 1 stop, 4 photos will give you two stops and to get 10 stops you will need 2^10 photos to merge which is 1024 pictures! so good luck ;)

Where possible I do like this method because you have no colour casts and no need to worry about sharpness being reduced. At the same time you can't just burst 1000 pictures in quick succession using burst mode you need some time separation between shots to make sure the effect appears. But sometimes its sucks in other ways for example if water is "oscillating" with a frequency close to the time difference between each shot which means you don't get much of a smoothing effect as you want.

I have an app in my camera that lets me do this with smoothing effect starting with 2 pictures (1 stop), going all the way to 256 pictures (8 stops). Examples below using this app

33681602130_f79db644ef_b.jpg


48163673526_fb20fb7696_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top