Beginner When to use Filters

Gary Clark

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Gary Clark
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Being a relatively newbie so please don't shoot me, Other than the normal UV filters, I have purchased a couple of filters but not sure of when is appropriate or best situation to use them, I have a circular polariser & an adjustable ND Filter, so when would you use these and what do they actually achieve?
 
Polarisers can be used for a variety of effects including reducing the glare off water, off cars, off glass etc and also for darkening the sky and increasing the blue

But on the sky they can lead to some unnatural looking results because they usually don't darken the sky uniformly.

ND filters are useful when it's too bright and you need to cut down the exposure (not usually a problem in the UK), but most people seem to use them for long exposures on water or sea scenes to give a special effect where the water looks more like smoke or milk.
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Cheers both, just wanted a brief explanation of when and why if you get my drift I take it the ND could be useful on my forthcoming trip to Australia
 
Following this. I have been watching some vids on u tube around caperturing water falls and they use filters.
 
There's a big debate around whether having clear filters (basically protectors) is worthwhile - for the small cost and (IMO) imperceptible adverse quality impact. I've opted for it and now sport Marumi Lens Protects on all my lenses, but that's for a different reason than them being "filters" as such.

The problem with filters is they can be a bit of a faff to put on and off and, assuming you have different size lenses, you require filters that will fit all of those. This second point can get expensive, take up unnecessary space etc. and certainly doesn't help with the faff factor.

Which is why people who really want to invest in a filter system do just that - they go for a square filter holder that accepts square & rectangular filters and will fit onto all of their different lenses.

The initial cost is perhaps a bit higher, but you end up with a more flexible system and removing the filters for a quick comparison shot takes a fraction of a second - no unscrewing required.

However, that's only of partial interest to you (for the future) since you've already bought a filter or two. The CPL may be useful but it will depend what you're shooting and what lens you're using it on - more info would be helpful. As @petersmart says, they can cause odd effects especially with wide angle lenses on expanses of blue sky. Theoretically useful for water shots though if that's the look you're after (i.e. killing the reflections).

I haven't personally tried a variable ND filter. I've read about some bad ones, so just stayed away - it may well be there are good ones out there that do a good job (i.e. are consistent and don't give a coloured cast to the image).

I find an ND filter is useful for certain types of shooting outdoors when I want to use a flash but it's too bright (my studio heads don't have HSS). But that's a fairly specific type of use and to be honest a bit of a "fad" thing for me at the moment. I use a big stopper for the waterfall type images as Arran mentions, but again they can feel a bit "fashionable" and we'll fall out of love with that look before too long, I'm sure. My most used are ND grads which even with lightroom are still great for getting it (nearly) right in camera for landscapes. I love them, but I know others who don't use them ever and their shots are far better than mine :)

So basically YMMV!
 
Interesting reading there Paul, in particular the variable ND filter issues, I have found that the the Max & Min marks are way out, I have re marked the edge as near as dam it to what I see as min & max.
It is on my 16-35 f4 & 70-200 f2.8 that I would be using the filters on.
 
I have found that the the Max & Min marks are way out, I have re marked the edge as near as dam it to what I see as min & max.

You could loosen the retaining ring on the front and rotate the glass so that it lines up with the markings, I had to do that on one of mine as it was way out.
Would also be worth checking that it doesn't throw out the autofocus at the longer end of the 70-200mm aswell. Some of them do, some don't, so better to test so you know in advance of using it for anything serious.
 
You absolutely don't need UV filters these days. All such things can be done in Photoshop or similar if necessary. A circular polariser will help reduce reflections e.g. in glass and water, and also gives greater colour saturation. The ND filter is useful in very bright conditions when you - for example - want a wide aperture for shallow DOF and need to artificially increase the exposure required; they reduce the light reaching the sensor.
 
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