Whats the fastest lens on a budget for track cycling?
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Dr_O
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Fast AF
Indoors so wide aperture
300mm focal length
How much are you willing to pay for this? Are we talking cheapest for £1000 or cheapest for £100?
What do you currently use? What short comings are you finding?
Is it more important to get the shot or not spend any money and go for a compromise?
I'm sure you could get away with a 70-300 and up the ISO although I'd be looking at something like the Sigma 100-300 f2.8 although I can't believe I just recommended a Sigma
People who regularly shoot at these events will be able to say if constant f4 or higher is suitable as I've only shot racket sports indoors. The D90 isn't bad for ISO so there is a bit of leeway there although personally I'd go for f2.8 or faster for that extra headroom.
Indoors so wide aperture
300mm focal length
How much are you willing to pay for this? Are we talking cheapest for £1000 or cheapest for £100?
What do you currently use? What short comings are you finding?
Is it more important to get the shot or not spend any money and go for a compromise?
I'm sure you could get away with a 70-300 and up the ISO although I'd be looking at something like the Sigma 100-300 f2.8 although I can't believe I just recommended a Sigma
People who regularly shoot at these events will be able to say if constant f4 or higher is suitable as I've only shot racket sports indoors. The D90 isn't bad for ISO so there is a bit of leeway there although personally I'd go for f2.8 or faster for that extra headroom.
Mike.P
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I thought this was already being discussed on your other thread.
desantnik
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Indoors or outdoors? Daylight or nighttime?
Indoors or night time you will need f2.8 or better, well, at 300mm you can only go to f2.8, but if you can get away with Nikon 200mm a 200 f2 will be better or a Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR1.
Outdoors, daytime, Nikon 300 AFS f4 or Nikon 300 AFS 2.8, Sigma 100-300 f4, maybe the new Sigma 120-300 f2.8 OS?
To be honest though, if you want consistant results, I'd couple any of those with a better body - something with proper AF for high speed action - a D300/D700/D3/D4 (but obviously with the FX bodies you "loose" focal length, but you gain higher ISO capability, negating to some degree the need for greater than f2.8 glass)
Thats not to say that without all of the above you cannot EVER take a photo thats OK, of course you can, I am making the assumption that you want predictable, repeatable performance to get the moment in an image- thats the difference between having cheap vs expensive "pro" gear.
Indoors or night time you will need f2.8 or better, well, at 300mm you can only go to f2.8, but if you can get away with Nikon 200mm a 200 f2 will be better or a Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR1.
Outdoors, daytime, Nikon 300 AFS f4 or Nikon 300 AFS 2.8, Sigma 100-300 f4, maybe the new Sigma 120-300 f2.8 OS?
To be honest though, if you want consistant results, I'd couple any of those with a better body - something with proper AF for high speed action - a D300/D700/D3/D4 (but obviously with the FX bodies you "loose" focal length, but you gain higher ISO capability, negating to some degree the need for greater than f2.8 glass)
Thats not to say that without all of the above you cannot EVER take a photo thats OK, of course you can, I am making the assumption that you want predictable, repeatable performance to get the moment in an image- thats the difference between having cheap vs expensive "pro" gear.
Flash In The Pan
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I'm puzzled, on your other thread you are talking about buying a £5000+ camera body, but now you want the cheapest lens you can get?
:shrug:
Dr_O
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That's a good point- I did not realise this was already being discussed which raises the question as to why a second thread was needed?:shrug:
We seem to have gone from spending a lot in the other thread to cheap cheap in this one...
Edit: Beaten by Flash- I had dashed to the kitchen to save my porridge
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