What ND filter

Shutterman

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Hi there quick question, I have a cokin set of p filters and I want to add a ND filter to the set for the purpose of removing people from shots.

ie:- they will be there milling about and walking through the shot but will not show up.

However I do not know if this one will achieve that effect..

Cokin P154 Grey ND8X Filter

Assistance please....

Regards

Nigel
 
I'm not familiar with the Cokin range - however, an 8x should give you a reduction of 8-stops assuming their nomenclature is the same as everyone else's

So, if 100 ISO and f16 gives you 1/125 sec, then 8 stops less would be (1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 secs) a 2 second exposure

2 seconds isn't enough to 'remove' people, and even a 10x would still only be 8 seconds so some slow movers or static peeps will record

8x is enough on a 'duller' day though where f16/f22 starts you off closer to a 1 sec exposure

For a sunny day I reckon you'd need a 15x ND, and I'm not sure anyone makes such a beast !!!

HTH

Oh, and I find my 7x is adequate most of the time, though I use it for water shots mostly rather than people ones

DD
 
mmmmmm..you could always put 3no ND8's in the filter holder,and i'm sure that will give you a long enough exposure time to get the desired effect :lol:

i've only had that effect in darkness,like on westminster bridge at night..

plenty of people on here,but not visible with a 30 sec exposure...

DSC00334.jpg


or here on the millenium bridge...

DSC03409copy_filtered.jpg
 
I'm not familiar with the Cokin range - however, an 8x should give you a reduction of 8-stops assuming their nomenclature is the same as everyone else's

So, if 100 ISO and f16 gives you 1/125 sec, then 8 stops less would be (1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 secs) a 2 second exposure

2 seconds isn't enough to 'remove' people, and even a 10x would still only be 8 seconds so some slow movers or static peeps will record

8x is enough on a 'duller' day though where f16/f22 starts you off closer to a 1 sec exposure

For a sunny day I reckon you'd need a 15x ND, and I'm not sure anyone makes such a beast !!!

HTH

Oh, and I find my 7x is adequate most of the time, though I use it for water shots mostly rather than people ones

DD

great explanation dave...a cokin ND8 is a 3 stop filter,ND4 is a 2 stop and ND2 is a 1 stop..
 
Nope, an ND8 gives you a 3 stop reduction.
ND2 is 1 stop, ND4 is 2 stops, ND8 is 3 stops.

So, say for example, the correct exposure for something was 1/30 of a second, you'd reduce your exposure by 3 stops - 1/15, 1/7, 1/3
 
I tried this effect several years ago in daylight. can't remember the exact exposure but I had a ND0.9 plus a polariser to cut down the light, plus stopped down to around f22. Wasn't particularly successful.

Photoshop CS3 extended has a useful function, where by if you take a number of multiple exposures of the same subject ( min 4) it will subtract any pixel that doesn't apear in 50% of them . Bit expensive option though.
 
ND8 is 3 stops? :cuckoo:

Don't you just love manufacturers for making things simple to relate to !!!

My BW is a 7x and it reduces the exposure by... wait for it... 7 stops

Good old Germans eh :thumbs:

DD

Actually ND0.9 is 3 stops. These numbers refer to the density of the filter e.g a density of 0.3 gives a 1 stop change, 0.6 gives 2 stops. Personally I find this easier than 2x and 4x. But then every one to their own
 
Actually ND0.9 is 3 stops. These numbers refer to the density of the filter e.g a density of 0.3 gives a 1 stop change, 0.6 gives 2 stops. Personally I find this easier than 2x and 4x. But then every one to their own

Well I suppose that makes sense, but then stops are done in halves/doubles, so 2x being 1, 4x being 2, that makes more sense imo.

16x would be a 4 stop, with 64x being 6 stops...
 
Another each to their own point then

I don't want to even think about Maths when considering a shot, so if it looks like I need to stop-down 6 stops I'd much rather reach for a 6x filter than think about whether it's 32x, 64x or 128x

I used to play about with a rather old MF camera - a Kodak Junior #1 from 1908 - what made it potentially really easy for anyone was that the 3 f-stops it had were... 1, 2 & 3

Much easier for a novice to open up two stops than starting at f16 methinks

DD
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone.. I have decided on getting a couple of the ND8 and will try stacking the little devils.

There is a 100x filter out there for B&W I think but this is a screw in and I want the versatility of being able to use the filters on all my lenses.

Thanks for the answers...

Cheers

Nigel
 
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