Tips on best technique for umbrella shoot through flash

mikeyw

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Guys,

For the first time i'm doing some portrait work for a client this weekend.

I'm shooting D90+SB-600 (On and off camera), for the off camera shots i'm going to try an umbrella - just wondering are there any good tips on how to achieve best results with this set up ie :-

DSC_6496.jpg


- Distance of flash & umbrella from subject
- Angle of flash to subject ie 30, 45, 60 degrees ?
- Umbrella point down, up or straight at subject
- Distance from flash head to umbrella

Could I even tilt the flash head up so get some bounce off the ceiling as well as through the diffusing umbrella ?

Finally is it possible to increase / decrease the flash output (on the flash unit) on the sb-600 when it's in slave mode ?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 
Shoot through umbrellas are limited, because about 60% of the light goes through them and the rest bounces everywhere, making it almost impossible to control the lighting. See this article on light shaping tools.

Distance - the closer the umbrella, the softer the light will be, so choose the distance that produces the effect you want. Bear in mind that because of the light spill, you may get flare if the umbrella is between the camera and the subject, which is a major disadvantage.

Angle - whatever works for your subject and the effect you want. There are no rules.

Up, down or straight? - again, whatever works, but pointing downwards makes the eyes look bigger (because the catchlight is higher in the eye) so many people prefer this.

Distance from flash head to umbrella - just enough to ALMOST fill all of the umbrella, with no light passing by it.
 
Are they head shots? Full portraits? Inside or outside? Corporate or family? Do you have a reflector? An available white wall or background? A nice window to set up by?

Have you practiced at all on anything? :D
 
Sorry indoors, single portrait mainly head shoots

At the clients house with white walls and some natural window light. No reflector
 
As you have no reflector I'd try and position the client so the brolly can provide the key with the window providing a little bit of fill. Get that brolly as close to the client as you can and the client as far away from the background as possible. Doing this will help to control spill, soften the key light and mean you have lots of power control.

Do you have gels? A 1/4 CTO will help a lot to warm the skin. As you have no reflectors a safe position for the brolly is about 45* in front of and to the side of the face and slightly above. This should stop you getting panda eyes.

I'm sorry, I can't answer your slave mode question as I don't use Nikon, but I'd imagine you'll be able to dial the EV up or down in slave mode.
 
I've been a bit underwhelmed by shoot thru brollies when used indoors, strangely (and maybe someone here could explain why) I've had more pleasing results using a bare flash shot through a diffuser on a seperate stand (a 5-1 reflector with the cover removed, I saw a youtube vid with this setup and gave it a go)

I would have thought it would be almost identical results wise but in practice the light is a lot softer and more controllable (well, a bit) than using a shoot thru.

Anyway - seriously get a reflector. Mine cost £12 and I use it a lot. Very handy for natural window light type shots to provide a gentle fill.
 
Are softboxes not better than brollies?.:shrug::)
 
Thanks Guys - might order a reflector today.....assumed you needed another pair of hand to hold them though !!
 
Thanks Guys - might order a reflector today.....assumed you needed another pair of hand to hold them though !!

Another pair of hands is handy, but if you're like me, and your model is also your only other pair of hands...I bought a reflector bracket thingy from Jacobs for £39, not cheap but handy. It grips the reflector either side and then attaches to a light stand. It has a ball head which means you can angle the reflector wherever you want.

I'd still like to know why shooting a bare flash through one of these diffuser/reflectors gives softer light than a shoot thru brolly though if anyone can enlighten me?
 
Another pair of hands is handy, but if you're like me, and your model is also your only other pair of hands...I bought a reflector bracket thingy from Jacobs for £39, not cheap but handy. It grips the reflector either side and then attaches to a light stand. It has a ball head which means you can angle the reflector wherever you want.
Only £27.95 if you get it from the right place;)
Lencarta reflector holder arm
 
Jason, those are both great links. The corner headshot post by DH is perfect for this. :)
 
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