Techniques for capturing moving water

zarozinia

zarozinia

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Angi
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I would love to be able to capture flowing water such as a waterfall or waves upon a beach, and make them look like candyfloss - Im sure you know what I mean. Ive had a couple of attempts this week, one at the beach and another on the edge of a lake, but every attemnpt has resulted in over exposed white results.
I have been using f22 - f36, ISO 100 and tried shutter speeds from 0.5 seconds to 8 seconds, but all end up too bright and I have no idea how to alleviate this problem. I even waited until sunset si light levels were lower but still experienced the same problem. Can anyone suggest what I am doing wrong?
 
I am sure (although never tried but from reading previous posts..) that you will need a filter. (maybe ND grad?) This will let less light in..
Don't quote me on it though..
 
I think you need to use an ND graduated filter.

The Cokin "p" is probaly the way to go.
I think they are still on offer, where you buy the adapter ring (a ring that fits on your lens and lets you attach filter holder.)
& get the holder free!!

I have been trying this at Clevedon pier!
Getting there, but slowly!!
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=56107&highlight=clevedon
Though they are not good examples!
I'm going down there again over the next couple of weeks if you want to tag along.:thumbs:

Spence
 
No, you don't need a ND Grad, or an ordinary grad, all they do is restrict light entering the lens, they don't do anything for blown highlights (which is your problem).

What you need to do is expose for the highlights i.e. the brightest part of the flow.

If you have spot metering use that, or get close to the highlights and take a reading from that, and set exposure manually. Or take an average (evaluative) reading of the scene and underexpose from 1 to 2 stops.

It's far easier pulling midtones/shadows back in PS than trying to retrieve blown highlights.
 
spencer said:
I think you need to use an ND graduated filter.

The Cokin "p" is probaly the way to go.
I think they are still on offer, where you buy the adapter ring (a ring that fits on your lens and lets you attach filter holder.)
& get the holder free!!

I have been trying this at Clevedon pier!
Getting there, but slowly!!
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=56107&highlight=clevedon

I'm going down there again over the next couple of weeks if you want to tag along.:thumbs:

Spence
Click to expand...

I might just take you up on the offer of tagging along - only I dont drive:(, but I could contribute to petrol costs. It would also depend on what day you go.
 
Les McLean said:
No, you don't need a ND Grad, or an ordinary grad, all they do is restrict light entering the lens, they don't do anything for blown highlights (which is your problem).

What you need to do is expose for the highlights i.e. the brightest part of the flow.

If you have spot metering use that, or get close to the highlights and take a reading from that, and set exposure manually. Or take an average (evaluative) reading of the scene and underexpose from 1 to 2 stops.

It's far easier pulling midtones/shadows back in PS than trying to retrieve blown highlights.
Click to expand...

Sorry I think I may have read it wrong!!
I was thinking of something different, as in my post.:coat:

Spence

Or did I?
 
zarozinia said:
I might just take you up on the offer of tagging along - only I dont drive:(, but I could contribute to petrol costs. It would also depend on what day you go.
Click to expand...

That aint a problem, Ive been there twice this week & both were crap sunsets!:bang:
I usually have to go at the drop of a hat, because of the kids.

But a Monday or Tuesday (if its a clear-ish sky) can be a defo?:shrug:

Spence
 
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