Spot metering
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omens
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I wonder if it varies from camera to camera but ordinarily the centre of the frame.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm
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Phil V
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For it's advocates, spot metering is the absolute pinnacle of control.
But for the rest of us it's fairly niche.
The spot needs to cover one of two things:
An object with 18% reflectance
An object with a known variance to 18% reflectance
I understand what my meters reading generally, but spot metering is too much like hard work for me personally.
But for the rest of us it's fairly niche.
The spot needs to cover one of two things:
An object with 18% reflectance
An object with a known variance to 18% reflectance
I understand what my meters reading generally, but spot metering is too much like hard work for me personally.
Normally at the centre of the frame, to the best of my knowledge, but there may be exceptions. I don't know. It's useful in some lighting conditions, providing you understand how to use it, but that's true for all metering modes.
Norkie
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Used primarily for backlit subjects. You expose for the subject by taking a 'spot' meter reading of the subject, thus not allowing the back light, the sun for example, to fool the camera into allowing for the bright back light which would under expose the subject.
Hope that makes sense
Hope that makes sense
david357
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The answer you need is in your camera manual, all cameras are not the same.
I can confirm that if you use a Nikon D800, the camera meters a 4mm circle that is about 1.5% of the whole frame, and that that circle is centered on the focus point you are currently using. This is useful if you are focusing on something that is not centered in the frame, but bear in mind that if you are focusing on something that is very dark or very bright, you will need to use exposure compensation (the meter is still trying to get get an exposure based around 18% grey).
Some cameras have the spot-metering sensor in the center of the focusing screen, and if that is the case on your camera, if not using the center focus point, you would firstly take the spot-meter reading, adjust exposure compensation if needed, lock the meter, then focus as normal and take the shot.
Spot-metering can be very useful .................................... if you learn to understand how to use it. For most people matrix metering serves the purpose very well, and is usually pretty accurate.
Hope that helps.
I can confirm that if you use a Nikon D800, the camera meters a 4mm circle that is about 1.5% of the whole frame, and that that circle is centered on the focus point you are currently using. This is useful if you are focusing on something that is not centered in the frame, but bear in mind that if you are focusing on something that is very dark or very bright, you will need to use exposure compensation (the meter is still trying to get get an exposure based around 18% grey).
Some cameras have the spot-metering sensor in the center of the focusing screen, and if that is the case on your camera, if not using the center focus point, you would firstly take the spot-meter reading, adjust exposure compensation if needed, lock the meter, then focus as normal and take the shot.
Spot-metering can be very useful .................................... if you learn to understand how to use it. For most people matrix metering serves the purpose very well, and is usually pretty accurate.
Hope that helps.
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Canon's 1Dx allows you to link the spot metering to the active AF point but I'm pretty certain that none of their other offerings have this feature. I find it beneficial for field sports on bright days if one team is playing in very dark shirts.
Bob
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I use spot metering a lot for cabaret and music shooting where the light is often vastly different in areas of the frame.
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I use spot metering But not in real time.. as in not while shooting in any semi auto mode.. I use spot to get a reading in difficult conditions..if i cant find anyhting big thats white/greay to set my white balance or exposure..
Willid1
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IMG_1170_1000_wide by david.williams221162, on Flickr
Used spot metering here. On the 7D the metering seems very strongly linked to the focus spot when you are not using the zone modes
David
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I use a spotmeter with my Linhof, find something close to a midtone, spotmeter it, spotmeter the sky, work out what grad I need, bosh.
Terrywoodenpic
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Most inbuilt spot meters cover an area a similar size to the focus area. and can be very useful for back lit subjects, like the excellent example above.
A more generally useful method can be used to find an appropriate exposure setting using the matrix setting....then...
As you move the camera view over the subject you will note that the exposure setting changes, even with quite small movements.
Using the histogram you can see when the highlights are about to burn out. you can lock the exposure at that point using the EL button. and so achieve an "exposure to the Right". When you reframe it will hold that exposure for taking the shot.
You can use the same technique by using the spot to set the highlight area. and adjusting the compensation setting to set the exposure to the right.
Or indeed to use the spot to take a series of readings over the tonal areas to establish the best overall exposure.
Though one must realise that the spot always includes more than one might expect. They are never as precise as specialist hand held spot meters.
A more generally useful method can be used to find an appropriate exposure setting using the matrix setting....then...
As you move the camera view over the subject you will note that the exposure setting changes, even with quite small movements.
Using the histogram you can see when the highlights are about to burn out. you can lock the exposure at that point using the EL button. and so achieve an "exposure to the Right". When you reframe it will hold that exposure for taking the shot.
You can use the same technique by using the spot to set the highlight area. and adjusting the compensation setting to set the exposure to the right.
Or indeed to use the spot to take a series of readings over the tonal areas to establish the best overall exposure.
Though one must realise that the spot always includes more than one might expect. They are never as precise as specialist hand held spot meters.