Softbox considerations

Ste Manns

Ste Manns

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Hi all,

I fully intend to be buying some studio lighting and associated gear in the not too distant future. Before I do however, I have been mulling over making a softbox, more as a project and experiment than trying to save money or anything, you know, just for fun. I like making things.

Now I have a basic concept but before I start measuring, cutting and so on, has anyone got any pointers and such I should be taking into consideration? I'm talking measurements/minimum depth, do I need an internal diffuser, should it be silver lined or not, etc etc etc.

This won't be one of the cardboard folding types, it's going to have a proper aluminium frame. It's also going to be used with speedlights.
 
You won't get full efficiency with a speedlight (unless you can remove the reflector from the flashgun) because otherwise the light will just go forward, not bounce around properly inside the softbox.

Basically, the trick is to get it to bounce around as much as possible, so you should fit a minimum of 2 diffusers and if the first one has a reflective surface in the middle to bounce light back (something like the silver lid of a takeaway) it will help.

The interior surface can be either stipped silver (very popular) or white. White produces a softer light, silver produces slightly more output - silver would be better with a hotshoe flash because of the very limited power.

It might be an idea to have a double layer of diffusion on the front. This will cut down the light but will help to hide any design inefficiencies and improve the diffusion.
 
That's very interesting and given me something to think about, thankyou.

Whatever I come up with will get replaced when I buy the studio gear anyway, this is just something for me to experiment with, I'm aware speedlights and softboxes aren't great together because of the relatively small output and the diffuser etc, but for peanuts (effective cost) it's got to be worth a play I thought. Now I know a bit about the internals I can give it a shot. Any other ideas folks?
 
Couldn't you just copy an existing softbox? Remember that the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflectance when shaping the sides, and that a deeper design will give more even coverage. I would make it silver reflective inside.

To get rid of the inevitable hot spot, pop a Stofen style diffuser on the flash and line the top of it with reflective foil. That will prevent light going directly forward and force it to bounce around the sides more evenly. Double diffusers :thumbs: Maybe make the inner one detachable in case you need the extra efficiency and can trade it for a slightly less evenness. If you get the Stofen bit right, with a bit of DIY cleverness at the light source, it will help a lot.
 
I can't copy one yet, I haven't got one to copy.

I'm getting the general idea though, I should be able to come up with something now, thankyou kind people for your thoughts.

I am an engineer by trade, my girlfriend often says "you can make anything you" which, whenever I come across something like this I take as a challenge not a compliment :D I can't help myself! Now I know what's going on inside one of these things I'll be able to come up with something in the 'shop.

It's a bit pointless really as when I've finished it, it won't be long before I go out and buy the real thing but as the idea's are now in my head I simply have to get them out or I'll go mad :cuckoo:
 
Garry Edwards said:
You won't get full efficiency with a speedlight (unless you can remove the reflector from the flashgun) because otherwise the light will just go forward, not bounce around properly inside the softbox.
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Sensie Gary San:D

I have watched the Strobist and 1 light dvd's and failed to hear about this.

Do mean the actual cover on the flash bulb?
 
Garry Edwards said:
You won't get full efficiency with a speedlight (unless you can remove the reflector from the flashgun) because otherwise the light will just go forward, not bounce around properly inside the softbox.
Click to expand...

I feel inclined to disagree with this, I use one of Flash in the Pan's pop up softboxes with my Samsung SEF-360PZF flashgun and have no problems at all. I know your not a fan, but I learnt from strobist's David Hobby and Joe McNally tutorials. I do use a stofen on the flash as well to spread the light a little inside the softbox but also have had no problems without it. (i haven't lined the top with foil, may try it to see if it makes a difference that is visible though :thumbs:)
 
I have watched the Strobist and 1 light dvd's and failed to hear about this.
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I feel inclined to disagree with this, I use one of Flash in the Pan's pop up softboxes with my Samsung SEF-360PZF flashgun and have no problems at all. I know your not a fan,
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What is it that you feel I'm not a fan of?
I love my SB-800's, I just don't use them when I have the choice of using studio flash, because studio flash is easier, quicker, cheaper and - most important - offers full control of the light.

Hotshoe flashes that don't have removable reflectors are less than perfect with softboxes simply because their built in reflector pushes all of the light forward onto the inner diffuser, where it gets diffused and then travels on to the outer diffuser, where it gets diffused more - but it doesn't bounce around off of the walls of the softbox because it can't. Therefore, hotshoe flashes work less well in softboxes than studio flash does.

Or at least, they work less well than studio flashes with removable reflectors. Exactly the same problem exists with entry level studio flashes that have fixed reflectors.

This doesn't mean that hotshoe flashes in softboxes are a waste of time, far from it, and I didn't say otherwise.

Fitting a diffuser such as a stofen to the flashgun should definately help.

The other problem of course is limited power, but that's more obvious and although that can be a problem, it isn't always a problem.
 
Well I did a bit of measuring and head scratching last night in the garage. I can definately make the frame no problem, and I have a few ideas for making the light bounce around inside (or at least bounce around better), and have discovered how to make two speedlites fire from one radio trigger (I suspected this was possible but last night confirmed it) which I think will help on the power front. As for mounting the speedlite(s) I can't see an issue with that either, brackets are easily made and I'll just use readily available coldshoe mounts.

Just out of interest, softboxes all appear to be quite "floppy" in their design, I presume this is just so they can be folded down and transported, and to keep their weight down. Is there any other reason why a softbox can't be of a more rigid design?

When I start building I will take pictures and if anyone is interested I will then write it up on here. I can't promise anything spectacular though.
 
Just out of interest, softboxes all appear to be quite "floppy" in their design, I presume this is just so they can be folded down and transported, and to keep their weight down. Is there any other reason why a softbox can't be of a more rigid design?
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No reason at all. In fact, until Chimera produced the first fabric softbox, they were made of sheet steel with frosted glass or acrylic fronts and suspended from the studio ceiling on chains or pulleys...
 
Blimey :eek:

Well mine won't be that heavy, I have plenty of ali stock to make the frame with, I'm thinking of making it in parts which bolt together for transportation. I'm a bit intrigued by the use of transluscent perspex for the front diffuser now you've said that, although I think it would eat too much power for the strobes, will probably stick with fabrics.
 
Would it make sense to turn the flsh around and build it so the flashgun is inside the softbox firing into the coated body of the box?
 
Ste Manns said:
Blimey :eek:

Well mine won't be that heavy, I have plenty of ali stock to make the frame with, I'm thinking of making it in parts which bolt together for transportation. I'm a bit intrigued by the use of transluscent perspex for the front diffuser now you've said that, although I think it would eat too much power for the strobes, will probably stick with fabrics.
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I made a softbox with ally and opalscent perspex when I was a student. It was inefficient and weighed a ton, even though it wasn't very big. Not recommended.
 
The23rdman said:
Just like that. I'd have thought as a homebuild it'd be just as easy and better light spread.
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If you turn the flash around and fire it backwards, you lose the hot-spot, but gain a shadow. I think that unless the softbox is massive, it is easier to diffuse away the hot-spot.
 
HoppyUK said:
If you turn the flash around and fire it backwards, you lose the hot-spot, but gain a shadow. I think that unless the softbox is massive, it is easier to diffuse away the hot-spot.
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Ah, yes, the shadow of the flash in the unit. Makes sense.
 
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