Soft pictures when using off shoe flash cord

ConfusedChicca

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Laura
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As the title suggests really.. Quite a lot of pictures I take whilst using my flashgun off camera are soft, some terribly so, and the camera seems to be struggling to focus at times.
When I put the flash directly onto the hotshoe, it's absolutely fine. I need the extra freedom that the cord gives though, so I'm hoping I'm doing something wrong (although when I first started using it everything was fine!).
 
Is it that the camera is using the flashgun's AF assist light but because of the position it's not aimed at the correct target point?
 
The AF assist light is set to come from the flashgun, and it does emit a beam, but it kind of flickers like it's searching for something to focus on. Even when pointed at something very obvious, like a person's face, it struggles/refuses to work.
 
I wonder if it only works if it's parallel with the lens?
 
It worked from all sorts of angles to start with, once I'd got used to making sure the cord didn't sneak into the pictures. I'm really annoyed with it at the moment.
 
Are you holding the camera with one hand and the flash with the other?

I'm not sure how it works with canon but with the nikon it emits a cross hatched pattern for the camera to focus on. If you're moving the flash even slightly with your hand then the pattern will move and maybe the camera will then struggle to focus? Although that doesn't account for the fact that it worked to start off with!

I'm just throwing ideas up here btw, so don't shoot me if I'm being an idiot!

Example shots may help.

Equipment malfunction? Have you changed the focus mode from single to continuous?
 
Not tried changing the focus mode yet, I shall play with that and report back.
Yes I hold the camera with one hand and flash with the other.
 
IMG_0016L.jpg

IMG_0144.jpg
 
Are you meering for ambient light and using the flash to fill with?

I would say it might be camera shake but I would've thought that the flash should've knocked that on the head.

I asked about focus mode as if you're using it on servo/continuous then with my nikon it doesn't have to be in focus for the shutter to release, unless you set it to do so in a custom function by giving it focus priority.

I'm just brainstorming really.

If I've got a problem like this then I'll normaly try and remove any variables and check that I'm not doing anything different, then work through all the possible causes, test them and if still no result throw the camera at a wall cos it's probably broken lol.


so....

1) see if you can recreate the problem

2) check all settings

3) throw camera at wall
 
First one looks like the camera has missed/not focussed. although at f3.5 it probably wont be as sharp as possible anyway. 1/125th should be enough to kill camera shake unless you've been on the shandies or too much caffeine lol.

2nd one looks plenty sharp enough, especially for a 1 second exposure!
 
I've had this problem in nightclubs and in a house. Varied shutter speeds, then ISO, then aperture, and it still has difficulty.
I'm not far off throwing it at a wall, but I can't shake the feeling it's something really obvious that I'm overlooking.
 
:shrugs:

Stumped me.

Frst ones soft through either a) camera not focusing or b) not enough DoF or c) kit lens is just very soft at f3.5

From what you've said a) is most likely as you said it was hunting for focus sometimes.

So why a)?
 
My sensor is in need of a clean, could that be it? It had a visible speck on it in some pictures from last weekend, but I used a rocket blower and it's not there anymore. But there is a coupla specks remaining and some smears.
 
No definitely not set that, don't think I've ever used it!
 
My guess is the kit lens not letting enough light in for easy focusing combined with the settings chosen for the camera. Maybe moving IR assist beams are not enough to let it focus.

Buy or borrow a 50mm f1.8 to see how easy a lens can AF in low light. You might want to consider a f2.8 zoom for general use. As to settings - unless you want to blend the flash with available light just let the flash output set the exposure and have settings on the camera that will get you sharp pictures... like f8 and 1/200th in manual mode (up the iso if you need more reach).

As I said though, just my guess :)
 
The spread of the IR beams from the flash are probably only just wide enough to cover the focussing points. I think its the 40D I read about that has a couple of extra points which earlier canon flash models dont cover.

my theory is : When your flash is handheld then misalignment of the beams to the areas covered by the focussing points could be a real problem and the camera is left fighting to focus with available light or only picking up on unwanted focus points not necessarily your preferred one (thus making the shot soft)

I only recently got a sigma flash for my 400d so not got to grips with it yet (if I ever will) and I'm also using the jessops version of the off camera cord. I can see the IR beam pattern on mine hitting the subject and its sometimes a problem getting focus, its bad enough with the flash on camera but when the flash is on the wander lead the IR pattern wobbles around the room missing the subject.

:shrug:

keep us all informed of progress as I'm sure you are not alone.
 
Sounds to me like the cameras focusing is relying on the AF assist beam to focus, and as the beam isnt where the focus point you want is, its focusing in the wrong place.
I've never used a 380 so I don't know if this is possible (but it works on a 430ex), but can you turn the af assist beam off? If you can do this, you can use the AF points on your camera to accuratly choose where to focus.
 
Tried turning AF beam off, didn't help unfortunately. Going to try it again this weekend, will try pay more attention to where I'm pointing the beam/flash.. not always easy in a busy club but I shall try.
 
How many focus points are you using?
 
It varies. When using the 15mm I use the central point because a few people have said fisheyes struggle with other points.
When using the kit lens, I use (dunno what the technical term is) all the points, or the centre one.
 
Could it simply be that it's using the wrong focus point?
 
Possibly, but how do I rectify this?
 
Try using just one focus point that's closest to the subject's face and see if things improve. Normally with all points active it will tend to pick the one that's closest to the camera which might explain the problem you're having.

You could also check some of the shots you're concerned about in the Canon s/w as one of the apps has an option to show the focus points used for a shot. That would tell you if a) the shot was in focus for the select point and b) if the point selected was the best one for the shot.
 
Zoombrowser EX is the software to see the focus points used for the shot
 
OK so I went into Zoom Browser EX and I can't click on Show The AF Points.
 
are you looking at an unedited photo (as it came off the camera)?

I don't think it will work if you've edited the photo in other applications.
 
Could it be the subject moving as well?
 
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