Shot composition/setup using a tripod

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morgan

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hi all

sounds like a stupid question but I always find it awkward. I use a manfrotto tripod/head with the quick release system. If I'm taking a shot with the tripod this is how i normally do it:

1. hand hold the camera, position myself inline/very close to the tripod and using the centre focus point focus on subject.

2. flick over to manual focus

3. put camera on tripod

4. dial in settings and take the shot

it seems over complicated. I also find that the tripod itself often 'sways' my composition. I use a 3 way head and its just not as agile as hand holding the camera.

Sometime if the subject is a way away I put the camera on the tripod, lift/tilt the whole rig, focus etc and then put it back down and take the shot

anyone got any other ways...am I the only one that finds it a bit of an awkward one?
 
I'm not quite sure what your exact problem is? If the camera is on the tripod, as long as the subject you intend to focus on is in your viewfinder, you can focus manually using any part of the screen?

With regard to your metering problems, it sounds like you'd perhaps really benefit from a hand held meter and taking incident light readings to set exposure, when the while thing could be done with the camera on the tripod.

For making very quick adjustments a good bal lhead is far quicker than a three way one.
 
Umm... I think you're saying that you find it difficult to compose the image as freely were it not mounted?
It comes with practice.

I use a pan+tilt head and it's much easier. I also do a lot of 'kicking' and 'bouncing' the tripod around to get it in the right place once the camera's on.
 
Arkady said:
I use a pan+tilt head and it's much easier. I also do a lot of 'kicking' and 'bouncing' the tripod around to get it in the right place once the camera's on.
Click to expand...

LOL. Would you buy a tripod off this man? :lol:

Nice to see you back Rob. ;)
 
CT said:
I'm not quite sure what your exact problem is? If the camera is on the tripod, as long as the subject you intend to focus on is in your viewfinder, you can focus manually using any part of the screen?

With regard to your metering problems, it sounds like you'd perhaps really benefit from a hand held meter and taking incident light readings to set exposure, when the while thing could be done with the camera on the tripod.

For making very quick adjustments a good bal lhead is far quicker than a three way one.
Click to expand...

metering not a prob at all. I use fec lock or use my lightmeter. Its just the whole handling issue thats awkward.

manual focus...not something i ever do to be honest....maybe a solution.
 
Thought about a monopod with a simple tilt head? Obviously it's not gonna allow the long exposures that a tripod would, but they do let you really push the envelope with shutter times, especially if you have IS. I've noticed I'm getting a lot more sharp shots with the monopod.
 
CT said:
I'm not quite sure what your exact problem is? If the camera is on the tripod, as long as the subject you intend to focus on is in your viewfinder, you can focus manually using any part of the screen?

With regard to your metering problems, it sounds like you'd perhaps really benefit from a hand held meter and taking incident light readings to set exposure, when the while thing could be done with the camera on the tripod.

For making very quick adjustments a good bal lhead is far quicker than a three way one.
Click to expand...

metering not a prob at all. I use fec lock or use my lightmeter. Its just the whole handling issue thats awkward.

manual focus...not something i ever do to be honest....maybe a solution.
 
I tried one of those and it really didn't work for me - some guys swear by them though... I kept expecting the tank to explode after six seconds...
 
If you don’t like the 322 you could go the other way and try a 410 or 405 Manfrotto head which are three way geared heads. Each movement has two adjustment collars. One allows big movements for roughly aligning the shot the other a very fine geared adjustment for fine tuning.
Another alternative would be a ball and socket head with variable fiction control, such as one of the Gitzos. These can be set so you can move your camera freely on the ball joint but with the friction control adjusted to the weight of your camera you can then just let go and take the ‘photo. No need to lock off any movements!
One thing I do from time to time is point the AF target at the point of interest and use the AF function and then turn it off and recompose. You can also use the focus confirmation light/beep to confirm your manual focusing is accurate

I hope this is of interest to you.
ilikebowens
 
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