shooting kids rugby

-Paul-

-Paul-

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I could really use some good advice on shooting kids rugby (u16s) I'am using a D300 with a Sigma 70-200 f2.8. Not the best I know that but it's the best that I can afford for now.
I think that I read on here once that one of the pro togs used to use a similar at one time:thinking: I have shot some matches and while the parents and kids like them I personally think that the vast majority are c**p! But I enjoy trying. I have taken on board advice previously offered on here about sitting on a stool, touchline position, background, shutter speed ect...... but my hit rate for pin sharp pictures is still abysmal! So what should my settings be? C, S or M, spot, center weighted or matrix, single point, dynamic area (again which one) or auto area (which one)? It's getting to the stage now were I feel like smashing the b****y thing against a tree! So any help, tips would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
 
AF-C (front)
Dynamic Area AF (back) with 21 points selected in Custom functions
Custom Setting Menu a1 (AF-C Priority selection) select Focus priority
Matrix metering

If you still dont get good photos then maybe your gear is faulty
 
nothing wrong with a sigma 70-200 .. no idea on the camera but the lens is sound :)
 
I use my 100-400L when shooting kids rugby but it is a little on the long side, I have to stand a fair way back which generally isn't a problem as most parents crowd the sidelines and I get myself behind the try line as you get the kids faces and hopefully not too much background clutter.

If the light conditions aren't particularly stable I'll shoot in Av mode and adjust my ISO until I've got a shutter speed of at least 1/500 (although I will generally try and get 1/1000).
 
-Paul- said:
Do you guys and gals use RAW when shooting sports? What about auto ISO?
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Jpeg only, no time pitchside to process RAW images

I personally shoot manual with auto ISO but would recommend "newbies" shoot AV and set your ISO as required, if youre struggling then dont over complicate matters, get the basics right first.
 
Gary Coyle said:
Jpeg only, no time pitchside to process RAW images

I personally shoot manual with auto ISO but would recommend "newbies" shoot AV and set your ISO as required, if youre struggling then dont over complicate matters, get the basics right first.
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I have the luxury after games to edit my images so I shoot in RAW :D

The last firmware update I put on my 7D allowed you to set a max ISO when using auto but tbh I don't really trust it...... for some strange irrational reason :bonk:
 
Gary Coyle said:
AF-C (front)
Dynamic Area AF (back) with 21 points selected in Custom functions
Custom Setting Menu a1 (AF-C Priority selection) select Focus priority
Matrix metering

If you still dont get good photos then maybe your gear is faulty
Click to expand...

I would recommend the settings quoted above but also use 9 Focusing points instead of 21 The speed of focusing increased alot with only 9 on and help with the sigma :)
 
Trouble with only 9 points Joe is that beginners tend to shoot more "loose" than the more experienced togs so only selecting 9 points doesn't give them much room for the subject moving away from the centre point before having none of the 9 points covering the subject and having more OOF shots (Even with Dynamic selected the centre point is the one which acquires the initial focus lock so has nothing to do with slowing down the AF) that can be resolved with the custom function and selecting a faster AF acquirement but this can knock on to altering the speed at which an "interfering" subject crossing the focus path then steals AF from the intended subject.
 
Gary Coyle said:
Trouble with only 9 points Joe is that beginners tend to shoot more "loose" than the more experienced togs so only selecting 9 points doesn't give them much room for the subject moving away from the centre point before having none of the 9 points covering the subject and having more OOF shots (Even with Dynamic selected the centre point is the one which acquires the initial focus lock so has nothing to do with slowing down the AF) that can be resolved with the custom function and selecting a faster AF acquirement but this can knock on to altering the speed at which an "interfering" subject crossing the focus path then steals AF from the intended subject.
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Good Point thought it mite just help with him getting the image, Really both ways are good if you know how to use them well :thumbs:
 
Joeturner11 said:
Good Point thought it mite just help with him getting the image, Really both ways are good if you know how to use them well :thumbs:
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Its why i said best to stick with basics and not over complicate matters, seems Paul is struggling with either his gear of technique so best to simplify matters until he either gets either/or sorted.
 
Gary Coyle said:
Trouble with only 9 points Joe is that beginners tend to shoot more "loose" than the more experienced togs so only selecting 9 points doesn't give them much room for the subject moving away from the centre point before having none of the 9 points covering the subject and having more OOF shots (Even with Dynamic selected the centre point is the one which acquires the initial focus lock so has nothing to do with slowing down the AF) that can be resolved with the custom function and selecting a faster AF acquirement but this can knock on to altering the speed at which an "interfering" subject crossing the focus path then steals AF from the intended subject.
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So why would it not be better still to use the whole 51 then Gary? I also didn't know that it was the centre point that initially aquired the focus. I thought that it was the focus point that you selected that first aquired focus.
 
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Would you agree Gary? Get low, know the game and anticipate the action. Oh and pay you dues to the luck fairy ...

I should explain the last bit. Lucky to be In the right position at the right time to capture the peak of the action.
 
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-Paul- said:
So why would it not be better still to use the whole 51 then Gary? I also didn't know that it was the centre point that initially aquired the focus. I thought that it was the focus point that you selected that first aquired focus.
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The D300 has 15 cross type AF sensors which are very, very accurate, if you only select 9 points youre not making the best of the coverage of the very sensitive 15 cross type sensors, 21 is a compromise, you use all the 15 cross type and as theyre mainly on the vertical axis if a non cross type picks up the focus and then loses it, its likely to lose it to one of the 15 cross type sensors which is what you want, by selecting 51 you have much more chance of losing the AF to the non cross type or sensor and youre not likely to get the AF back onto a cross type as the AF will flit between the non cross type and less accurate sensors until you stop tracking and need to recompose and track again by the time you do this the try has been scored and you missed it.

This can be even worse when shooting under poor light when even the accuracy of the cross type sensors are pushed to their limits, you need to bear in mind that accurate AF needs contrast to work well so it will struggle even in good light if the players shirt is a single solid colour as that lacks contrast regardless of the colour, shirts with advertisers logos, or hooped or stripped shirts have good contrast so aim your focus on that area.

Hope all of this makes sense mate
 
Tugster said:
Would you agree Gary? Get low, know the game and anticipate the action. Oh and pay you dues to the luck fairy ...

I should explain the last bit. Lucky to be In the right position at the right time to capture the peak of the action.
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100% agree mate, however you can make some of your own luck based on your own knowledge of the game and of the teams and players involved, if youre shooting Leeds Rhinos and want to capture tries at close range you would probably want to be shooting at the side Ryan Hall scores some spectacular tries and position yourself accordingly
 
-Paul- said:
So why would it not be better still to use the whole 51 then Gary? I also didn't know that it was the centre point that initially aquired the focus. I thought that it was the focus point that you selected that first aquired focus.
Click to expand...
Ah yes it is, but in general you wouldnt select any other point other than the centre, however if youre quick enough when switching to portrait mode you can quickly switch the centre point to the next one up so youre still focussing on the players chest area, some cameras can be set to auto select a different AF point when switching camera orientation, not the D300 though
 
I took all the advice offered on board and went and tried again this weekend, and while not perfect by any means, certainly a lot better! So it's practice, practice, practice for me!
Thanks again guys for all your help and advice!
 
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