Shooting into the sun

freerchris

Suspended / Banned
Messages
8
Name
Chris
Edit My Images
No
Evening all...

Just started out in photography and need a bit of advice please. When shooting into the sun, the subject appears a lot darker in photos. For example, shooting a model with the sun behind, her face is very dark.

What's the best way to solve this? I am keen to solve it while taking the photo rather than in photoshop or any other editing software.

Thanks in advance for your help, much appreciated.

Chris
 
You need to use flash or a reflector to balance the light on the subject.

If you're using a flash, measure for the ambient light (i.e. to get the background correctly exposed) and then set your flash to properly expose the subject.

You'll probably find that if you are using the flash on TTL (i.e. auto) then you'll need to turn the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) down a little to avoid it looking fake. During the day I'd usually shoot with -2 flash compensation as all you'll really need to do is lift the shadows. Around dusk, the flash would be stronger as it will actually need to light the subject (and I'd often use a shoot-through umbrella or similar)

For a good intro to flash photography have a look at http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

Hope it helps, but I'm sure other and better answers will come!
 
Chris has suggested the other way of solving the problem, which is to expose for the subject at the expense of overexposing the background. If you're in strong light, the background may well end up just being blown out entirely. However metering of the face in this way can lead to very nice high key photos.
 
Thanks for the prompt replies....what is the best way to get a meter reading? I have a Nikon D60...I presume this function is available on that camera?

Thanks
 
Stick the camera on manual, use spot metering with middle AF point selected, hold shutter button half way down and adjust your shutter speed until the lightmeter marker is in the middle. Voila, correct exposure (unless your scene is predominatly white or predominantly dark, then you'll need to compensate by over or underexposing).... If all of that was over your head, read the manual and all will be revealed :)
 
Don’t know Nikon but I guess you have Spot metering? Zoom in close do a Ex lock zoom back out recompose and shoot.
That’s how you can do it on a Canon so I guess its same for Nikon

Why zoom?
 
AS I said I do not know the Nikon so do not know what angel the smallest spot reading you can get, so zooming in you will et a more accurate reading. As for holding down the shutter button half way, does this not also lock the focus?
The Canon has a separate button for Exposure lock with out using the shooting trigger and will not mean you are fixed on the focus that you took your reading for exposure.
I am trying to cover all.
 
AS I said I do not know the Nikon so do not know what angel the smallest spot reading you can get, so zooming in you will et a more accurate reading. As for holding down the shutter button half way, does this not also lock the focus?
The Canon has a separate button for Exposure lock with out using the shooting trigger and will not mean you are fixed on the focus that you took your reading for exposure.
I am trying to cover all.

I'm a Canon user.... :thinking:

You can customise your camera buttons to focus lock, lock exposure or lock both but your post is only relevant if you're shooting semi auto (and to not point that out could confuse the OP). Shoot manual and exposure lock is irrelevant....
 
By the nature of the question I would guess that the OP was not using manual if so then I do not think the question would have been asked.

Eh? Too many assumptions, just be clear and then there's no room for interpretation. For the record, I have always shot manual, much prefer the control so it's quite plausable the OP also does so.
 
Back
Top