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LCPete

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Hi everyone
I’m going to have a go at getting some shots of a local rock band tonight
Just for my own use /fun, I’ve not done much of this before usually do nature /wildlife
It will most likely be quite dark so will up the iso a bit
I’ll be using my 6D 2 and 50 1.8
Will be a small event so should be able to get close enough and my other EF lenses are tele
I’m thinking to start at ISO 3200 and F2.8 to get a high enough shutter speed
Will F2.8 have enough depth of field to get the guitarist face and guitar in focus?
Thanks just haven’t done anything like this on my 6D yet
 
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If its a compact and small event and you are close then 2.8 will probably be a little too shallow. Just let the ISO be free and keep shutter speed to a minimum of 1/160th if they are moving about a bit. If they are static then you may get away with 1/100th. Better to have noise than blur, unless the blur is intentional.

Also, don't worry about always getting guitar and face in focus, use the depth of field creatively, so if they're singing, then get the face in focus and don't worry about the instrument. if they are shredding a solo, concentrate on the instrument. It will all make sense.

Let us know how you get on.
 
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If its a compact and small event and you are close then 2.8 will probably be a little too shallow. Just let the ISO be free and keep shutter speed to a minimum of 1/160th if they are moving about a bit. If they are static then you may get away with 1/100th. Better to have noise than blur, unless the blur is intentional.

Also, don't worry about always getting guitar and face in focus, use the depth of field creatively, so if they're singing, then get the face in focus and don't worry about the instrument. if they are shredding a solo, concentrate on the instrument. It will all make sense.

Let us know how you get on.
Thanks appreciate the help will try F4 or 5.6 I should have plenty of time to experiment with depth of field
Wasn’t sure about shutter speed actually I think I’ll go with shutter priority as you say do need to make sure I have enough speed
Thanks will let you know how I get on and post some pictures
 
Go manual, or have quite a restricted area for exposure metering. Do lots of chimping. Lights at a gig are often brighter than you think. Beware of LED lights, which can show dramatic level changes with faster shutter speeds.

If the stage isn't high, you will get in the way of punters. There may be rules about being at the front taking pics (larger venues limit 'togs in the pit to the first three songs) Maybe be at the front for the beginning of the set, then experiment with longer lenses during the remainder of the set. It's tricky as you don't have a lot of time to work out what the band are doing before you might have to move away.
 
Go manual, or have quite a restricted area for exposure metering. Do lots of chimping. Lights at a gig are often brighter than you think. Beware of LED lights, which can show dramatic level changes with faster shutter speeds.

If the stage isn't high, you will get in the way of punters. There may be rules about being at the front taking pics (larger venues limit 'togs in the pit to the first three songs) Maybe be at the front for the beginning of the set, then experiment with longer lenses during the remainder of the set. It's tricky as you don't have a lot of time to work out what the band are doing before you might have to move away.
Thanks I was planning to spend a few minutes at a time taking shots , good idea to take a longer lens , I’ll take my 100 macro as well so I can take some further back
Actually my 70-200 may be a better idea instead of the macro will be easier to frame
 
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I used to do some gig photography in the days of film, mainly using a manual focus Canon A1 with 80-200 f/4.5 zoom (mainly at the wider end and wide open) and Kodak Ektar 1000 ISO colour print film. I also used exposure compensation to underexpose by 1 stop to prevent the camera's meter trying to make things look like daylight (you can now check this by seeing how the shots look on your DLR's screen!).

While this often limited me to 1/125 second (just enough to reduce camera shake and provide acceptably sharp images) and restricted my shooting to times when the stage lighting was bright enough, it gave good enough results. I never used flash, as I felt it stripped the atmosphere from the shots and could annoy the performers - in fact, many would specify no flash photography.


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These days, with modern DSLRs handling low light so much better than the 1000 or 1600 ISO film I was restricted to (plus the benefits of 'instant' auto-focus), getting good photos should be very much easier.

As a starting point, I'd forget about using a 50mm f/1.8 lens wide open and take something like a 24-105 f/4 IS instead, if it's a small venue and you have such a lens. Switch the image stabilisation on and set the shutter speed to 1/125 (or a bit higher if you can), and let the camera set the aperture and ISO. I doubt you'll go over 6,400 ISO doing that, particularly if you time your shots for moments of brighter stage lighting (unless the place is a candlelit dungeon!). This should produce more than acceptable results from a 6D II in terms of 'noise'.

As for composition and ideas, watch for microphone stands and stage kit 'growing' out of band member's heads or shoulders or obscuring their faces or cutting their bodies in half, and perhaps try to get some shots of the drummer too; drummers often get ignored as grabbing a clutter-free action shot of a drummer isn't as easy as taking photos of the singer or guitarists! The drummer may appreciate that, which could get you on the right side of the band if you send them a few photos.

If you do send them (or the venue) some photos then make it abundantly clear whether or not they can use them free of charge for publicity, etc. I think it's unfair to send photos like that without such information, then subsequently try to claim copyright infringement and demand money for them if they get used by the band or venue - this won't do you any favours with either of them! If your photo subsequently turns up on a poster, press article, T-shirt or album cover then you'll know where you all stand - and this can happen!

A word of caution on personal safety, etiquette, etc. Don't get in the way of the audience, they've paid to see the band not you! Watch yourself when you leave the venue too, some less than honest people may be there and have been watching you waving an expensive camera around. A gig photographer I knew was followed by such people, who mugged him of his camera kit when he stopped at a petrol station in his car shortly after leaving the gig! So keep your wits about you and as low a profile as possible, travel light and don't take a big fancy camera bag and loads of kit with you - lenses can disappear out of jacket pockets too! Also, watch out for drunken idiots throwing beer around, a beer bath isn't good for cameras - so it may be better to get your shots early before things get rowdy.

Hope the above suggestions help and best of luck.
 
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I used to do some gig photography in the days of film, mainly using a manual focus Canon A1 with 80-200 f/4.5 zoom (mainly at the wider end and wide open) and Kodak Ektar 1000 ISO colour print film. I also used exposure compensation to underexpose by 1 stop to prevent the camera's meter trying to make things look like daylight (you can now check this by seeing how the shots look on your DLR's screen!).

While this often limited me to 1/125 second (just enough to reduce camera shake and provide acceptably sharp images) and restricted my shooting to times when the stage lighting was bright enough, it gave good enough results. I never used flash, as I felt it stripped the atmosphere from the shots and could annoy the performers - in fact, many would specify no flash photography.


39821092555_759631df21_c.jpg



36218698304_7243b690cb_c.jpg


These days, with modern DSLRs handling low light so much better than the 1000 or 1600 ISO film I was restricted to (plus the benefits of 'instant' auto-focus) getting good photos should be very much easier.

As a starting point, I'd forget about using a 50mm f/1.8 lens wide open and take something like a 24-105 f/4 IS instead, if it's a small venue and you have such a lens. Switch the image stabilisation on and set the shutter speed to 1/125 (or a bit higher if you can), and let the camera set the aperture and ISO. I doubt you'll go over 6,400 ISO doing that, particularly if you time your shots for moments of brighter stage lighting (unless the place is a candlelit dungeon!). This should produce more than acceptable results from a 6D II in terms of 'noise'.

As for composition and ideas, watch for microphone stands and stage kit 'growing' out of band member's heads or shoulders or obscuring their faces, and perhaps try to get some shots of the drummer; drummers often get ignored as grabbing a clutter-free action shot of a drummer isn't as easy as taking photos of the singer or guitarists! The drummer may appreciate that, which could get you on the right side of the band if you send them a few photos.

If you do send them (or the venue) some photos then make it abundantly clear whether or not they can use them free of charge for publicity, etc. I think it's unfair to send photos like that without such information, then subsequently try to claim copyright infringement and demand money for them if they get used by the band or venue - this won't do you any favours with either of them! If your photo subsequently turns up on a poster, press article, T-shirt or album cover then you'll know where you all stand - and this can happen!

A word of caution on personal safety, etiquette, etc. Don't get in the way of the audience, they've paid to see the band not you! Watch yourself when you leave the venue too, some less than honest people may be there and have been watching you waving an expensive camera around. A gig photographer I knew was followed by such people, who mugged him of his camera kit when he stopped at a petrol station in his car shortly after leaving the gig! So keep your wits about you and as low a profile as possible, travel light and don't take a big fancy camera bag and loads of kit with you - lenses can disappear out of jacket pockets too! Also, watch out for drunken idiots throwing beer around, a beer bath isn't good for cameras - so it may be better to get your shots early before things get rowdy.

Hope the above suggestions help and best of luck.

Excellent shots will be happy with anything near as good
I’ll remember about shutter speed
I don’t have a wide angle zoom , not full frame compatible anyway , but thinking on what you have said I think I’ll start off with the 70-200 ,I’ll be able to be further back and not in people’s way
Good idea to take shots of the drummer as well , I follow the band as well one of my favourites
I have already agreed to give the venue shots they asked for that when I approached them and I’m ok with that it’s a new local music venue am happy to help them
Good point about personal safety, I’ll take a small bag with the minimum of gear probably not use a camera bag
 
If the stage isn't high, you will get in the way of punters. There may be rules about being at the front taking pics (larger venues limit 'togs in the pit to the first three songs) Maybe be at the front for the beginning of the set, then experiment with longer lenses during the remainder of the set. It's tricky as you don't have a lot of time to work out what the band are doing before you might have to move away.

Even if it's a mates band at a pub gig, you'll not make any friends with the crowd if you're bobbing around at the front all the set - depending on the "friendlyness" of the pub clientel, this could be an issue... That said, if the band go down a storm, try and get something from one of their encores - just to capture some of the "atmosphere" - could even ask the singer to thank the crowd for their patience with you taking some of the "promo shots" ;)
 
Even if it's a mates band at a pub gig, you'll not make any friends with the crowd if you're bobbing around at the front all the set - depending on the "friendlyness" of the pub clientel, this could be an issue... That said, if the band go down a storm, try and get something from one of their encores - just to capture some of the "atmosphere" - could even ask the singer to thank the crowd for their patience with you taking some of the "promo shots" ;)
Thanks yes that’s a good point I’ll start with my 70-200 , at least I won’t be in people’s way
I’ve got an idea of the type of shot I want have seen the band many times but not taken photos
 
Excellent shots will be happy with anything near as good
I’ll remember about shutter speed
I don’t have a wide angle zoom , not full frame compatible anyway , but thinking on what you have said I think I’ll start off with the 70-200 ,I’ll be able to be further back and not in people’s way
Good idea to take shots of the drummer as well , I follow the band as well one of my favourites
I have already agreed to give the venue shots they asked for that when I approached them and I’m ok with that it’s a new local music venue am happy to help them
Good point about personal safety, I’ll take a small bag with the minimum of gear probably not use a camera bag
You'd be using the upper end of a 24-105 most of the time, so the lower end of a 70-200 will do the job too, just as it did for me. I hope it's not one of those big, white Canon 70-200 zooms though, as you'll probably find that too cumbersome for a small venue - where it pays to be discrete and compact.

I never bothered with a camera kit bag, just took the camera and lens (carrying accessories such as lens cloth, tissues for drying kit in an emergency, rolls of film, etc. in my pockets); the less bulk you carry the better. At venues with stages I would stand to one side or the other to take shots so I didn't block the view for the audience, ducking down if I had to change from one side to the other, but kept that to a minimum to avoid annoying people. If there is a stage then try to avoid taking shots when crouching down, otherwise you'll have a load of photos of views up the band members noses!
 
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You'd be using the upper end of a 24-105 most of the time, so the lower end of a 70-200 will do the job too, just as it did for me. I hope it's not one of those big, white Canon 70-200 zooms though, as you'll probably find that too cumbersome for a small venue - where it pays to be discrete and compact.

I never bothered with a camera kit bag, just took the camera and lens (carrying accessories such as lens cloth, tissues for drying kit in an emergency, rolls of film, etc. in my pockets); the less bulk you carry the better. At venues with stages I would stand to one side or the other to take shots so I didn't block the view for the audience, ducking down if I had to change from one side to the other, but kept that to a minimum to avoid annoying people. If there is a stage then try to avoid taking shots when crouching down, otherwise you'll have a load of photos of views up the band members noses!
My 70-200 is the F4 non IS so it’s quite compact
The band I want to see and photograph is actually the support band so I’m hoping to my shots early on before it gets too busy
It’s a new venue their opening night so will have to see what it’s like but looking forward to it
 
I’ve been going to watch bands for years probably too late for that :rolleyes:
Me too, but getting (custom fitted) plugs has made a massive difference. especially as taking photos, you are often right up with the speaker stacks...
 
Golly this takes me back to my days with a Nikon SLR, a 28-70mm f3.5-5.6 and ISO 1,600 film and of course low double digit (that'd be nice) shutter speeds motion blur and lots of speckles.

If flash is allowable a double digit shutter speeds and low power flash (all I had was the built in one) can give a nice look and keep the ambiance in the background. Other than that, let the ISO go to whatever as that is IMO better than not taking the picture at all. You can always apply NR or even scrap the shot later but if you don't take it you may just miss the shot that might be the most atmospheric of the night.

Enjoy, and don't get drenched in beer or worse :D
 
Golly this takes me back to my days with a Nikon SLR, a 28-70mm f3.5-5.6 and ISO 1,600 film and of course low double digit (that'd be nice) shutter speeds motion blur and lots of speckles.

If flash is allowable a double digit shutter speeds and low power flash (all I had was the built in one) can give a nice look and keep the ambiance in the background. Other than that, let the ISO go to whatever as that is IMO better than not taking the picture at all. You can always apply NR or even scrap the shot later but if you don't take it you may just miss the shot that might be the most atmospheric of the night.

Enjoy, and don't get drenched in beer or worse :D
Thanks :) I’ve thought about flash but I don’t want to distract the band
think I will up the ISO as the lead guitarist will be moving a lot and want a decent shutter speed
 
I'd wait and see what happens on the day/night as if other people are flashing away with smartphones (or even with cameras) a few camera flashes from you may go unnoticed. I only used flash when taking pictures of revellers though and never when the camera was pointed at the stage.

PS.
In my case this was mainly because I only had a slow lens and ISO 1,600 film and asking someone to stand stock still while I took a picture at 1/xx wouldn't be met too well :D In those days though the prints were quite small and no one ever, not once, complained of noise or motion blur. Happy Days.

I didn't get a wide aperture lens until I got a DSLR although I did have a 35mm f2.5 on a RF.
 
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Yep there's nothing worse than having a flash go off making you miss a string or fret position when you are playing. As regards DOF estimate the distance you will be shooting from and set up some objects indoors that represent the focal plane that the guitar and face would represent try some shots at various apertures so you can check the DOF. Oh and don't forget the drummer arms and sticks could be blurred to show action.
 
Yep there's nothing worse than having a flash go off making you miss a string or fret position when you are playing. As regards DOF estimate the distance you will be shooting from and set up some objects indoors that represent the focal plane that the guitar and face would represent try some shots at various apertures so you can check the DOF. Oh and don't forget the drummer arms and sticks could be blurred to show action.
That’s the sort of issue I was thinking don’t want to put them off with flash
good idea with DOF thanks
 
Yep there's nothing worse than having a flash go off making you miss a string or fret position when you are playing. As regards DOF estimate the distance you will be shooting from and set up some objects indoors that represent the focal plane that the guitar and face would represent try some shots at various apertures so you can check the DOF. Oh and don't forget the drummer arms and sticks could be blurred to show action.
Just tried some shots indoors and see what you mean about estimating DOF , don’t know why I didn’t think of doing something like that :)
I now realise that I’ll need a much higher ISO than I thought but it’s ok the 6d2 is excellent for low light
 
Just tried some shots indoors and see what you mean about estimating DOF , don’t know why I didn’t think of doing something like that :)
I now realise that I’ll need a much higher ISO than I thought but it’s ok the 6d2 is excellent for low light
If I used to obtain perfectly usable shots at f/4.5 or f/5.6 (and probably at most f/8) on film, you should be able to do the same on a full frame DSLR (full frame = the same DoF as 35mm film SLR, hence the name 'full frame'). Ask yourself, do you really want everything from the monitors on the front of the stage to the curtain at the back (or clutter-filled backdrop/wall if they don't have a rear curtain) in focus? Bokeh (and darkness) can hide a multitude of sins, and help keep the viewer's eye on the main subject, while still retaining enough context.

43874777162_7a4919ed8a_c.jpg


So don't get too hung up about DoF, it's similar to wildlife photography, concentrate on the main subject and make sure your photos lead the viewer to do the same. Getting a guitar in focus from front to back doesn't usually matter that much (unless you are taking a photo to sell that guitar!). As far as gig photography goes, it's capturing the mood and feel of the artist that is more important.

Oh, and take a tip from Martin Parr - shoot more crap! Without getting too silly; the more shots you take, the better chance of a keeper. I used to bank on getting three or four shots I was happy with from a 24 exposure film. You should be able to better that with a modern autofocus DSLR like the 6D II, once you've got your 'eye for a shot' in. (y)
 
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If I used to obtain perfectly usable shots at f/4.5 or f/5.6 (and probably at most f/8) on film, you should be able to do the same on a full frame DSLR (full frame = the same DoF as 35mm film SLR, hence the name 'full frame'). Ask yourself, do you really want everything from the monitors on the front of the stage to the curtain at the back (or clutter-filled backdrop/wall if they don't have a rear curtain) in focus? Bokeh (and darkness) can hide a multitude of sins, and help keep the viewer's eye on the main subject, while still retaining enough context.

43874777162_7a4919ed8a_c.jpg


So don't get too hung up about DoF, it's similar to wildlife photography, concentrate on the main subject and make sure your photos lead the viewer to do the same. Getting a guitar in focus from front to back doesn't usually matter that much (unless you are taking a photo to sell that guitar!). As far as gig photography goes, it's capturing the mood and feel of the artist that is more important.

Oh, and take a tip from Martin Parr - shoot more crap! Without getting too silly; the more shots you take, the better chance of a keeper. I used to bank on getting three or four shots I was happy with from a 24 exposure film. You should be able to better that with a modern autofocus DSLR like the 6D II, once you've got your 'eye for a shot' in. (y)
Thanks yes youre exactly right I’ve just got back I found I was mostly only on F4.5 to get a decent shutter speed and as you said got enough in focus
have to go through the pictures but really pleased how it went band was amazing and I think I got the shot I wanted will go though them tomorrow
 
Thanks yes youre exactly right I’ve just got back I found I was mostly only on F4.5 to get a decent shutter speed and as you said got enough in focus
have to go through the pictures but really pleased how it went band was amazing and I think I got the shot I wanted will go though them tomorrow
Glad you enjoyed it, as with most forms of photography now it's just a case of practice and developing your ability to 'see' a shot. (y)
 
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Thanks again everyone for your help appreciated, had a great night last night I’ve posted up a couple of pictures in the general photos section
:)
 
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